Monty_CZ

I have a brake master cylinder from a Ford KA, 3 ports. Two ports are closer to the brake pedal. I think on the ford KA those are the ports for the rear brakes. However, on my car I have one pipe to the rear brakes split by a T, and each pipe runs separately to the front brakes. Question is, would it matter if I plug the front brakes into the ports closer to the brake pedal?

my current front brakes are from non abs sierra - so 54mm piston and floating calipers with 240 mm brake disc. Rear brakes are sierra disc brakes 253 mm with standard sierra floating calipers 43mm piston. Brake master cylinder is from ford ka 20,6 mm. If I want to upgrade I can buy these wilwood callipers and they should be same as ABS sierra brakes which are 60mm piston floating caliper with 260mm brake disc. With this upgraded setup it should not be overbraked at the rear compared what I have now (even though I am using adjustable proportioning valve for the rear). My thinking was that I can buy standard sierra 260mm brakes or I can buy this wilwood brakes.

but standard sierra caliper is floating, so you have to multiply the area by 2. At leaset it is what they say here: http://brakepower.com/help_abc_27_PAC_t.htm According the calculation it will be probably 41,1 diameter of piston on fixed wilwood caliper (5304.12 mm^2). This should be to be similar with sierra floating caliper with 60mm piston (5652 mm^2). I will e-mail them what piston diameter it is.

thank you very much. This is exactly what I was looking for but did not found it. If this is a sierra kit I suppose that it should work with standard master cylinder and sierra rear disc brakes, right?

well spotted that these are for the rear probably. Does anyonw know what kit should fit on the front? https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=3940 I do not know if the bracket would fit. Or does standard 260mm sierra front brakes with mintex 1144 pad withstand track use?

if I buy these then the bracket wouldn't be necessary right? Powerlite - 257mm Solid Kit http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=10508

If I want to upgrade from 240 mm vented front brakes to 260mm do I only need discs, callipers and pads? Hubs are the same?

it's not necessary. I've picked it up repaired at the local cardan specialist today. Tomorrow I am going to install it, so no problem. They did all the work now and also 6 months ago. But this time they installed different type of the U joints. Or I think that because the nipple for adding grease is completely different. All I wanted to know if anyone had same problems, and also to know how often should I grease the u-joints and what type of grease should I use.

oh my mistake. Of course it is propshaft. Well it lasted only 6 months, so maybe once a year it is not enough.

well, they said that they were dry and it was the reason why they failed. There are traces of grease, bud not that much:

Hello, my drive shafts u-joints on my robin hood 2b failed after 3k kilometers after rebuilding them (rebuild was done at the end of the March). They said, that they wasn't lubricated. I did not know that it was necessary to lubricate them. How often should I do it? They said once a year, but mine failed after 6 months. Or is it possible that I have too much power for this driveshaft? Robin hood 2b, Zetec 170HP 210Nm

It turns out that ruberred wet track is a good practise for winter driving

exactly. I do no know how it is in England, but here it's very rare to see something like this on the road. I have a very positive reactions from the people. A lot of thumbs up and waves. It's nice to see that it just brings the happines on the street. Especially children . A lot of mums just point at it so that their children do not miss it. And also it's the only car to which even bikers give a wave.

I strongly recommend it. It's different world there. You go to do some grocery shopping and parking lot is full of porsches, bmws, amgs, mclarens etc. Almost no normal cars. This BTG layout is 19.10 km / 11.87 miles long.

it's 2 litre blacktop zetec with motorbike ITBs, EasyECU, 170HP

Hello! Finally my dream come true, I drove my Hood on Nordschleife. It was a blast. Problem here is that in the compresions it bottoms out with rear subframe. So I had to take it quite carefully. Was still surprised that with so many supercars around it still turned a few heads. I did not found much videos on youtube with someone driving Hood on Nordschleife, so I though I will share it with you:

Snapperpaul: ooh nooo! Well that's what I did. New spray bar has small holes. Old spray bar had bigger holes. I still have it in my garage so I can install it back. So the question is, what have I destroyed. I will get into my garage later this week. I will remove the valve cover again and I'll try to inspect what could it be.

So I made a video how the knocking sounds. First video is cold start. Notice that knocking starts at 0:52. Second video is made after a while when the engine was running.

so I've changed spray bar because I did valve clearances. So I thought it's a good idea to change spray bar for a new one, just to be sure. I've also changed valve cover seal and engine oil for a 20w50 and filter of course. I did not fit a new cam. Cam was there when I bought it (CFR33). Weird thing is that the old spray bar had significantly bigger holes that the new one. But I changed it anyway. I had a suspicion that someone drilled bigger holes just to be sure that it will not clog. After that, guy from local bike shop came to synchronize and tune my carbs (car was running good under load but it was coughing during city driving when I was slightly on throttle). He did his job and car was running quite good. He said that I should test it and then check the spark plugs. He should stop again and decide what to do next. So I did one trip about 100 km long. No slow driving. Car was running good but still too rich (very bad fuel consumption). No weird noises. But it stared raining so I had to stop the engine and start it a few times. So I've decided that I will do another test and check spark plugs immediately after that. So next weekend at Saturday I went for a small drive. I did 20 km and I noticed this knocking sound. I stopped and towed the car to my garage and leave it. Next day I went to the garage and start the car for a few seconds. No knocking noise. I gave it a two taps on throttle and it sounded alright. But as I said, engine was running just for a few seconds. Yesterday I went to the garage for some things and I had to move a car. I started it, it sounded alright. I've put it in reverse and gave it a few taps and knocking noise appeared again and stayed. It sound like it's knocking around 4th cylinder on the top. So I though that I messed up something during valve clearance setup. So I put down a valve cover and checked if everything is alright. All nuts was tight and I didn't noticed anything wrong. I disconnected carbs and spark plugs and I turned the engine with starter. Oil was flowing from the spray bar nicely. No knocking during that. I've put it back together and started it. Still knocking. When I came home I can make a video from cold start. to 2b cruising: so I can start the car without the valve cover ? Wouldn't be the engine oil spraying everywhere? Engine is running quite good even though it's knocking.

Spray bar is brand new. I've installed it like a month ago. Works very well, I checked it today. Camshaft looks normal without any signs of wear.

My pinto started to make a horrible knocking noise. Just like that: When I start it from cold it's ok for a few seconds and then it starts to make this sound. Any ideas what can it be guys? I checked valve clerances and they are ok.

ok so I can install brake bias valve and I should be safe (I wanted to do it anyway). But what brakes configuration (sizes and MC) people use when they have rear brake disc?

Hi all, I'm going to change rear differential for LSD one, so I'm going to change rear drums to discs also. At the front I have 240 mm brake discs and master cylinder is standard 22 mm without servo. Rear ones will be 253 mm solid. Should I also change front brakes for 260mm? Or is it good to have 240 at front and 253 at rear? Thanks for advices!

Thanks! I've also found these product numbers, but it's the same product. No shop has it available here because what I have found, it's for right hand drive cars. I didn't want to order it from e-bay because it takes too long and you know... Winter is coming! So I've ordered normal brake master cylinder in local shop for ford sierra w/o abs with same bore. If there will be some problem they said I can return it. I hope that it will work.

Hi, I have a problem probably with main brake master cylinder (I did not found visible leaks or hissing) on my robin hood 2b (no servo). Brake pedal is soft and after few presses it gets firm but if I keep pressing it goes slowly down to floor. I've found out that my brake master cylinder is type TRW PMH224. But it's quite difficult to buy it here so I am curious if this master cylinder can be changed for another one form Sierra without abs - for examle for ATE 010463 or simmilar. Thank you very much for replies. :-)