marlin

Brexit is our entertainment over here. We have our own BIG problems as I'm sure is your entertainment over there. The base coat of POR-15 does change colo(u)r when exposed to UV light as mentioned above. They do offer a top coat to prevent this but most any other top coat will work also. It does level very smooth and hard to tell the difference even right next to plastic coat. If used on new clean metal, the metal needs to be etched.

POR-15 (paint on rust) is a great base coat that needs no prep. then top coat with your favorite color (or is it colour?).

In California you get a 3 month temporary permit once you have 'brake & light" inspection and CHP (California Highway Patrol) gives you a VIN # completed. They expect you to get everything else done within the 90 days. DMV gets very uppity if you are not done in 90 days. Ask me how I know. But you do have full driving ability. So moving to California is an option, but not a very good one.

Well you definitely got some heat into your tires. Looks great. How long is that track?

We all know that sinking feeling Crimping is the way to go. But I have had problems with crimps also, even with the right tool. If you use to much force you can cut right through the wires and have the crimp held on with just the insulation relief. Good Grief! Live and learn.

On the bottom there is a fitting post that must go into the front hole or the diff will wobble to top of the mounting plate. I'm guessing this might be where your issue is? Let us know what you find. Marlin

The red arrow is the spacer I took out of the donor torque rail and used the donor bolt. The blue spacer I had made up to support a large 12.9 bolt. The blog shows the top mounting.

That is a good way to be. Most other people on this site are probably of the same opinion. Makes for a better car. I think the engine and gearbox mounts are pretty stout. But a broken bolt or loose nut can be a real headache. A tone ring off an ABS hub would be an interesting way to pick up a signal. Or did you have something else in mind?

The Mazda diff is a solid position mount without rubber if done correctly. Engine and gearbox are rubber mounted and if they have given up the ghost some you may get movement. The early MX-5 transmissions has a cable speedo. Later ones put out an electrical pulse but that needs to be matched to the clock head or ECU if digital. GPS speedo eliminates a lot of the headaches. I used marine vents for the bonnet. Will not pass IVA but will grated cheese nicely. I also just made up a new fuel filler neck out of an old mustang neck. Untested but should be an improvement. Tray sides probably need to be taller and a drain hose from tray leading to underside of car. Mustang cap is vented but not locking.

Hi, Oh, knowledgeable and experienced car builders. Finally got out on the road for real to a supposedly British car gathering that was mostly Porsche's about 65 miles away. Car ran and handled great on the way there. About 10 miles from home the car sputtered a few times then died. Some situation information, died near the top of a long uphill grade, air temperature was easily 100*F. ECU threw no codes. Fuel gauge read about 1/2 a tank. I had brought about 2.5 gallons of fuel along not knowing if the gauge is accurate or what type of mileage I would get. Pushed the car uphill to a pullout (brought a neighbor along with me for just this sort of event), put the fuel in the tank. It started, died, started and took us the rest of the way home with no further problems. Got home, took everything apart thinking a leak someplace had given me poor MPG. None found. Swirl pot was warm. This morning pumped the fuel completely out of the tank and almost filled a 5 gallon container. With empty tank fuel gauge read EMPTY. So I was not just out of gas. Next theory is LP or HP pump froze or vapor locked? Standard GBS configuration. Facet cube LP pump in back. 75 micron brass inlet filet, 40 micron filter on the outlet due to the understanding that pumps push better than pull. Gravity feed to the pump from the tank. Curifer copper piping to/from engine bay swirl pot. Walbro HP pump through 40 micron filter to stock 1.8L MX-5 fuel rail. Modified fuel rail end (used to have pulse dampener) fitting to connect to a pressure regulator and return to swirl pot. Boot has a pretty complete aluminum floor with carpet on top. Tonneau cover over that. Black diffuser below boot. So air circulation is not great for the LP pump. LP pump is rated -20*F to 180*F but install instructions say to install mount below 140*F. Problem is I'm not sure how to test working pumps for failure. Have ordered a 4 probe thermocouple to be able to measure temperatures beneath boot and in engine bay. Plan is next trip out no boot tonneau, carpet, floor. When I took spare fuel container out of the boot I may have just let all the heat out so car ran again. But of course it could have been the HP pump also? There are air vents in the bonnet sides, perhaps more are needed? All thoughts welcome! Moving to the UK may help since it is usually cooler there but with global warming...? Thanks, Marlin

Not a cheap one, but what I really liked was the turn and hi beam indicators built into the dial. Unfortunately my dash layout makes it difficult to see. Trip indicator is a nice addition as an extra fuel level reminder. And practically unlimited customization, almost too many choices.

https://www.speedhut.com/gauge/GRM338-GPS-01T/1/GPS-Speedometer-200km-h-Metric-(w--turn-signal-and-high-beam)

They are not expensive tools and a good investment. Get the hinged ones that can be used on more than 1 size ring. If you have a locking ring you want to get 2 tools. The ATR shocks/dampeners have a locking ring, not sure about the GAZ. If GAZ have a Allen screw to lock the ring, Make sure the little rubber tip is at the bottom or you will damage the threads. Try not to use a screwdriver and hammer to turn the ring. Too much chance of slipping and causing damage.

Measure to the side rail where the side panel attaches, not the floor pan. This way measurement with or without the lowered floor would be the same. At the front of the rear wing is the correct placement. Raise the weight of the car off the spring to make the adjustment. Best with the correct C spanner tool. Be careful not to damage the threads. If height is low the locking ring may have loosened and you can make the adjustment with your hands. Can be done without removing the wheel but more difficult. Unweighted spring, adjust (tightening the spring raises the car body), lower car, give car a bounce, remeasure height. Hope this helps?

Not sure on the cam sensor? My Mazda motor uses one. The Ford may not? I'm sure someone will chime in shortly.

My 2 cents. Any overheating or chance that the crank and/or cam sensors are loose?

My white plug was funky from new. Check continuity of switch (small white bump in gear opens and closes switch). I took mine apart and found a wad of grease inside. Once cleaned up worked better.

kit spares P/N TRI0008. I just ordered the same.

Electron flow is good! Indicators can be finicky. All need to be connected and you may have to add diodes to the circuit. Attached diagram maybe helpful? Credit to templar knight. This is again a different connector of the harness. See bottom of prior attachment. Aux plug Hazard wiring _lower dash panel switches.pdf

easy first; Yes the power + from the battery goes to the bolt on the outside of the fuse box. The top "Ignition switch" section of the 'attachment' are for the connector that goes to the key/ignition switch on the steering column. I do not know what type of key barrel you are using? I have the information for a MX-5 Mazda barrel but if you are using a FORD it will be more difficult for me to help. But not impossible. The PUSH START button you have will go to the 2nd pink connector allowing you to start by button or key position. 'Battery Isolation switch' frequently is placed to cut power to everything, BUT you need the type of switch that turns off the alternator also or the engine may run on and/or fry the rectifier in the alternator. Did the switch not come with directions? The GBS loom is made to go with the other GBS premade wire harnesses and hence designed to be plug and play. Using just the chassis loom and everything else Robin Hood will add to the difficulty since I am not familiar with the Robin Hood wiring. With all the help on the forum I'm sure it is doable. Keep calm and wire on.

Does this attachment help? What are the problems you are having? GBS_harness 051516.pdf

Obviously you need to change your blinker fluid.

richy66 - thanks for the information will try to get it on the future agenda. Web link would be nice if handy? The bureaucracy in different places seem to be in our pockets different ways. If vanity plates were that expensive here I would never go for them. Here 50-80 extra is doable especially if it is something important or fun. 3 figures I'd be hard pressed to cough up let alone 6 figures. Living the dream? Yes, sometimes but it can be a night terror too. Consider our fearful leader, fires, guns, no affordable health care.... each place has pluses and minuses. Have considered moving over to your side of the pond since wife is from there. We will just keep flipping the coin. Cheers

Moog6 - great minds think differently

Andi - it is a $50 added cost to the regular yearly fee, in California anyway. Other options than black or white available but cost more and supports various causes, fire fighters, environment, etc. richy66 - have never been to Portmeirion but someplace I've always wanted to visit. The Prisoner show had a big impression on me during my formative years. Is it still open to the public? Had to wait till my senior years to get the car though. In reality rear fog lights are unknown here. Even though we get a fair amount of fog here in northern California. People here only know of front fog lights. But you make a good point. The GBS chassis loom places the fog light on the right side and not looking for more work to do will probably just leave it alone. Will probably never remember to use it anyway, and other drivers would just think I'm riding my brakes anyway. nelmo - no IVA or MOT for kit cars but in California anyway you do need to go through a myriad of inspections, brake & light, CHP (california highway patrol), smog referee (if you want to be exempt from smog inspections, unique to kit cars in california), and the infernal beast of the DMV (department of motor vehicles), etc. I kept a humorous diary of sorts regarding the headaches I had getting the car registered. Will send it to anyone privately that is interested but it does need editing. Every state has different laws and requirements for car registration. I only have experienced California which I think is one of the worst. So the same plate could be issues by another state if they offer that option. Here is what my other kit car has;