simon2b

Hi Steve, cheers. The hardline is 8mm od and is good for any fuel according to there add. Here it is https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AN-6-6AN-RAW-ALUMINIUM-5-16-8mm-HARDLINE-TUBE-PIPE-Fuel-Tank-Oil-Cooler-5-Metre-/274151476081?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 I got it just incase I went fuel injection or turbo but prefer it to rubber hose in that area anyway, hopefully one less thing to worry about perishing in future.

I just bought one of the cheap gauges with sender included off amazon, was £20 but think you can get them for about £15 of ebay. I have got a digital speedo with 0-90 ohms resistance and was hoping the senders resistance might match but its 0-230 unfortunately. But it does work nice and smooth with its own gauge and I tested it for accuracy which was spot on. But looks like i will have to cough up £40 for the sender with the correct ohms resistance. As usual for me, I tried to save a bit of money but it back fired lol. this was the one i got: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B073GQV77T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

handbrake brackets were next and just welded some angle in parrallel then made a bracket what could be bolted in between the two.

I was not really sure were to exactly put the seat belt mounts and after reading others problems with the iva decided to make mounts out of 10mm steel with lots of holes in lol, and also put in a couple of different positions. Just hope they will suffice.

Next on the list was the to change the pedal bulkhead panel as i noticed it flexing when i turned the steering wheel. think I used 3mm plate and weld it across the servo support bracket and also welded a side support between the chassis rails to stiffen it all up Also made a support bracket for the pedal box and steering column mountings as did not like the st/st P clip approach. Thinking of ways do do the fuel line was fozzing me out for ages. decided on welding some tags to the middle rails and a piece of flat between the middle vertical bars and the front bulkhead beam/rail. I used ford plastic fuel and brake clips to try and keep it simple.

I know what you mean Steve D, other things just get in the way unfortunately. I rebuilt a normal car then put it in garage, its been trapped in there for the last 5 years due to sorting house/ garden/ drive etc. Right pain in the ass. LoL at going electric, i would actually love to do a leccy car. But the batteries are just bloody expensive. Sorry for late reply. I thought I would get some kind of notification if someone posted, not been on since as been a bit busy.

thanks, I will try to keep that in mind when facing my next brainstorm on what ever item I am trying to sort next lol

well I purchased my 2b about 2015 or there abouts. But due to various other projects of more concern(well mrs say so), I did not work on it till summer 2016. I brought it as a rolling chassis. The previous owner just did not have the time to build it, I purchased it as chassis which had all the suspensiom loosely attached so it could be transported. Also had a rebuilt 2.0 pinto, new webber etc .parts were either reconditioned or new so was basically un started other than i did not need to strip a donor car(AWESOME) I know the bodywork is suppose to be abit of a pain on these so I decided to temp fit all of them before going any further with the rest of the build. The rear/back panel had already been attempting in past by some one and was abit worse for wear so thought it was ideal to practice on. Must admit that st/st is a pain as it does not like being shaped but managed to fit it and looks ok. Most of the panels have got very minor imperfections? dents already as think they have been kicking around in various sheds/garages since 2001. then cracked on with the arches/side panels and then the nosecone and bonnet. Not long after getting this far(still 2016), unfortunately 3 of my lower discs decided to spill there guts which had rather a negative effect on how long i can spend kneeling down /bending etc. probably did not work on it for 2-3 years plus other than the odd few day here and there as it did my head in having to stop when i didn't want to . Fortunately I eventually realised that some work is better than no work so plodded on as and when i could. I started to think about paneling the interior and decided i did not want to squish the rear bulkhead in and put bracket covers on etc,so after some measuring(I am 6'3" decided to put a piece of angle iron to the rear of outer crossmember mounts and panel the mounts in as well to give mount a lot more strength. before and after. I left that at that for the moment and started on the pedal arrangement. Used a bearing instead of bush and paneled it . After this stage I started to worry alot about the iva and seat belts and seat mountings fuel pipes etc. I eventually came up with a plan and did this over a long period of time. This is when i use to get fed up of lack of process due to back, Anyone who has built a hood will know how many times you have to make templates and fit, remove again and again lol. I recut the rear bulk head so it was a single item .Arch infill panels were made seperately and any holes which went over suspension mounts were able to to blanked off due to the way I had done my panel. I put a fold near bottom to match the angle and drilled alot of hole for fitment later. this was also done before all the chassis reinforcements.

that makes sense Ian and thanks nelmo, that as put my mind at rest. The IVA is literally fozzing me out. I don't know if i am reading the right things but alot of the info i see by others, I have not found myself so it worries me slightly . I am compiling my photos together at mo to hopefully start a build diary, hopefully it will help others too. Sie

Hello Is there anything wrong with putting fuel lines by part of the loom. I have routed the fuel pipes and brake pipe down one side of the tunnel. my plan is to put the loom on the other side, but on both exits at some point the loom will be passing by the fuel lines. Will this be a problem with the IVA as i can't see a way round it as part of the loom needs to go round the other way of engine bay and the same at rear due to tank wiring. Sie

Must admit I am puzzled by this 19mm radius aswell. does the iva say that it as to be a full half circle(38mm dia) on underside. whats wrong with it just being matched to the thickness of the dash panel you are using as you can make any panel have a 19mm radius over what ever thickness panel, or am i being dumb and missing something.

Yep, when I test fitted my panels mine also had a big gap which baffled me as i would have thought that it should only have a tiny gap to allow for a seal. luckily (or not lol) I decided to cut the bonnet to have a seperate scuttle as i wanted a curved shape to the bonnet and scuttle as I prefer that to a totally flat bonnet. but going this route was a pain due to making templates etc etc. Still think its mad that this is normal.