Davo

Solved with 4 th relay

Bench testing a new loom and I’ve got almost all the way there with the light but slightly stalled and thought it wouldn’t hurt to ask for help. I have 3 switches. one for driving lights. One for headlamps and one to toggle main beam dipped beam. I have driving lights working ok on a relay. I have headlamps working ok with main beam dipped beam ok. The head Lamp works off a switch and relay. The relay then powers the second relay which toggles between main and dipped beam. all good so far. the challenge is I want to be able to switch on the driving lights independently AND have them come on IF the headlamps are on. I thought I could do this by taking the coil side of the headlamp relay and running that as a second trigger for the driving lamp relay (as well as the switch). as suspected that shorts things out. Is there a proper way to do this? Maybe I need a fourth relay in the mix. ive added a truly awful diagram which worked until I added on the fancy part of triggering the driving lamp relay.

Ok so managed to put something together. Not amazing but good enough. Any guesses as to how it’s done?

Just has a quick look. The new electronic distributor has a single connector with two wires. Red which goes to the positive side of the coil and black to the negative side. I don’t they specifically have to go to the coil, it’s just those are nearest 12v and negative earth. there wàs an old wire for the old distributor which is now redundant. have you done any tests? Multimeter on the positive side of the coil to make sure you have 12v? double checked the coil is wired up the right way round? I didn’t! Are the spark plugs firing at all or at just the wrong times? You can check this by removing them from the engine and hold them against an earth to see if they spark. sorry if I’m teaching you to suck eggs. Pretty novice myself

Fitted the same earlier this year also to a pinto. my first attempt I was sure I had it right but got the polarity wrong on the coil and burnt out the circuit on the electronic points. im no expert but doesn’t the ballast wire lower the voltage during start up? My accu spark distributor required 12v. I think I just took that from the positive side of the coil. I’ll check later today for you.

Thank you. I’ve just started playing with an idea. I’ll post back when done! good to finally know the model of the kit. cheers

I was just wondering if anyone had any good photos for ideas for this piece of trim.

Looking through old paper work it looks like both the straight mk1 and the monocoque were quoted for but the price on the receipts seems to align with the mk1.

Interesting you ask actually. I was always told it was a 2b so never doubted it. Having looked through some of the old paper work though it indicates it might be a mk 1. I’ll send some older photos but they might have the old trim in place

Hi all, I’m slowly getting this old car back to a respectable condition. The new dash is in place but it has revealed a bit more of the top of the side panel with bad welding and holes. I was wondering how people generally tidy this piece up with trim. I’ll try to upload some photos to show what I’m trying to finish off the car is a Robin Hood 2b

A stack pipe it seems. Trouble is finding one with combined sender

Well almost one of those. Without the electric fuel pump built in. Mine just has a long tube that goes down into the tank with a filter on the end. The pump is mechanical off the engine. I just don’t know what to search for to describe that.

That is exactly what I’m after. What’s it called to search for?

Worst case scenario... count the miles and carry a can. However, I have seen sender units that are perfectly flat and would fit the current aperture far better than the Sierra twist and lock one I have. My issue would be fuel supply as the current one integrates the sender unit and the fuel line.

I was hoping to actually just do away with the fuel sender unit completely and attach a fuel line a different way.

Yeah I really didn’t fancy pulling the tank out and starting again I was hoping there might have been some kind of hacker or flange that would allow me to drop a pipe inside similar to the one already in place

So for about 6 months since stupidly taking off the old fuel sender and integrated fuel line I’ve been battling to remake a good seal. Almost there but now considering other options. I’ll try link some photos but I’ll try to explain. The integrated fuel sender and line consists of a not flat disc which badly fits onto the aperture on the top of the fuel tank. It has the sender and fuel pipes integrated into it. If I bought a fuel sender kit these are actually flat I see and would probably make a far better seal. But then that leaves me with no way to get the fuel out. It’s a mechanical pump off the engine to pull the fuel. What’s the normal way to get the fuel out? The tank seems to have a welded lid so I can’t easily see what’s available in the way of apertures. I did notice a bolt in the top. Could this be for a fuel line? I’m resistant to turning this bolt in fear I’ll do more damage as before. is there any advice on the normal way to get fuel out the tank?https://share.icloud.com/photos/0qPuVkapMmDU5X2Q47CzwBr1Q

Ha.... got there eventually, the three cables that go from the barrel get to a connector block. It was that that was dodgy. One of them had obviously become too hot at some point damaging the connection. A slight nudge or road bump knocked the block causing power to fail. All sorted https://share.icloud.com/photos/0QzPhAUElUd-mSLS3Dld50T_Q#Home

Apologies... your right12v to the coil. Its a very simple set up as far as I know. The choke is completely manual. The fuel pump is mechanical only. I think there is a starter module but it’s beyond me what it does. Maybe to do with an old ballast wire.

Thanks for all the help. I think partially unrelated but the battery is dead which is causing a few problems first. Last of the crazy questions though, if I were stuck whilst out because of the intermittent fault, if I were to put 12v from the battery to the distributor and then 12v to the relay on the starter motor to start it, would that work to get me home? Admittedly I’d have no lights etc but would that be enough?

So thanks to you both. I dread the thought of stripping down but equally I can’t work with the snakes nest of useless wires under the dash. So tell me if this is completely bonkers.... I can’t stand the thought of starting the complete job and biting off more than I can chew and never finishing. The lights and accessories all work; most of the time. Would it be crazy to have two looms in place until I’m ready to completely strip out the old. Could I just put in the new; connect up only to a new key or starter button, the starter motor and distributor, and just disconnect the old from those component so at Least I have a car that reliably starts, and then gradually moving lights etc onto the new loom throughout the winter? Mad?

Hi, i have b reg car pinto engine and donor parts from a Sierra gl. I put a new mot on it yesterday so I’m all ready for summer driving. But it I do have an intermittent electrical problem. Some times you turn the key and just get nothing. No start. No lights. Only hazards. Leave it 5 minutes or poke the harness under the dash and suddenly you’re back on again. Interestingly I lost power on the way to the mot station 3 times yesterday, each time at a junction. From this complex diagnosis I reckon there’s probably something loose under the dash. But with all the fancy wiring from a Sierra it’s really messy under there with tape and all sorts. So a little part of me just wants to put in a complete new loom. It can’t be that complex right? Switched power to the starter, coil and each of the lights and you should be almost there right? Lol. I am pretty terrible at making connects etc, so in an ideal world I’d want a kit with just the minimal with all the lighting pre terminated. Does such a thing exist? Any recommendations?

Thanks Peter. All received. It fits the sender perfectly. Ive just used washers and nuts for the minute until I can build a brace. Ill hopefully be able to take it for a spin over the weekend.