Davo

Having ordered the wrong thing twice now, can someone confirm that this one will do the job please: https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p512815/BS332-5.33mm-Section-59.69mm-Bore-VITON-Rubber-O-Rings/product_info.html?backstep=1

All attempts so far have failed so Ive just ordered that o ring. Making the clamp I imagine will be more challenging though. Ill let you Know how it goes.

Thanks guys. Ill keep trying.

Turns out the advice about not removing the sender unit if at all possible was sound. As predicted Im having trouble sealing it. Any advice?

Hey thanks for the tips. I gVe into temptation in the end and removed it to see what was going on. I didnt really learn anything more other than it looks like three separate circuits inside corresponding to each of the pins. However, after putting it all back together it now works! Im not convinced the tank is sealed properly but at least I have a working gauge that looks about right. Jonny, I live in redhill near parley. Would be nice to meet someone local to chat things over. Im a bit of a newbie.

So theres two possibilities here maybe. 1 I actually have an electric fuel pump built into the tank and it should be powered by 12v using one of the other spades on the block 2 the additional spade is for flow or something Either way the unit needs an earth which for good reason its not going to get off the fuel tank. In short, I need to Earth it on one of the spades. ?

Mine does look very similar to that. Sadly I suddenly I have bigger problems so I might have to pause this.... water pouring from below the crank case pulley.

Thank you. I’ll have a read. As it happens, from fiddling the wire popped off and earthed itself on some metal; shortly after that the gauge went to the top. So at least I know now that the gauge works. The tank looks like it’s a shiny rectangular one so I’m assuming it was custom for the kit car. The sender part though looks like it is part of a larger unit that encompasses the fuel line. The larger unit is secured by four nuts. I don’t think the plastic sender part comes out on it’s own.

Ive had a look at what I think is the right diagram in Haynes, but I can see two different fuel sender objects.

Looking now in daylight, tested the wire that goes to the male connector and when there is ignition, there is 8v on that wire. Not sure what the other two male connectors would be for though.

Picture attached

I’m pretty sure I’ve found it. I’ll attach a pick if I can. Wiring loos very odd though. One wire going to the centre and what looks like a reciprocal connector laid to one side with two wires connected to it. Something doesn’t smell right here. Is this how it’s meant to be?

Thank Long, As you know Ive become quite familiar with the front of the car but the back is still a mystery. Where about would I be looking for the send kit? I guess once Ive found it Ill find some wires and check for voltage?

I’m fairness your 160 sounds about right. I usually do BOURNEMOUTH to Portsmouth return journey which is about 120 round trip. It would make sense if I’d already done that journey once that I would break down on the return.

Plus I normally carry a small can for time like this.

Yes my usual tactic. My 14 year old son managed to convince me that I’d just filled up at the end of the last journey. Lesson to self, follow routine and instinct.

So sat here on the side of the a31 waiting for the aa to rescue me with some more fuel has prompted Me to get the fuel gauge fixed. The current gauge is the original dash from a Sierra. The temp Guate works but the fuel one hasnt as long as Ive had it. I understand they use a sender unit in the tank ? Should I try to fix the existing one or just buy a complete new kit? Any advice please.

All done and performing really well at the moment. It was a pleasure to take out for a short spin yesterday. Goes like a different car.

Best timing felt more like 12-14 degrees, or at least thats where idling felt fastest and smoothest. I think I remember reading though that it should be as retarded as possible without causing an issue. Is this correct, and is retard indicated by progression through the marks to the right of tdc? Regardless, performance is much much better now.

So it seems off cam timing can indeed cause your engine to not run well or in some cases not at all! Having changed found tdc, aligned the cam pulley markings and fitted a new belt and tensioner the engine not only runs but makes it past 3000 revs! Not a proper test yet but good enough. Just need to tune the carb and the ignition timing now. Thanks to all the online help; and my father and son for pulling it apart this weekend!

Thank you It was only so I could understand the risk if I mess the procedure up. As far as I know its a standard cam

A bit of a novice question, but if my 2l sohc pinto is a non interference engine, will any damage be done if I get the cam timing wrong?

Thanks paul, very kind but I moved the car from Fareham (where my dad lives) to Bournemouth (where I live) to work on it through the winter. Im often over that way and could do with a chat, but the car is a bit too far away for easy transport unless I hire a trailor.

Thanks for the reply. Ive had the radiator off before when changing the fan but the next steps do feel a bit out of my league. Unless I can pursuade my father to join me for a weekend I might have to give in With this one and take it to a friendly garage.

If I understand the cam timing set up, something would appear wrong here. This might not be exactly lined up, but it looks like the point is roughly at 6 oclock pointing up. When I look at the timing marks and blades they seem a little out. Would you agree from this video?