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old_timbo

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old_timbo last won the day on July 24 2014

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About old_timbo

  • Rank
    Wheely good builder!
  • Birthday 09/22/1955

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    2B Sold :-( Looking for a TVR Chimaera
  • Full name
    Tim Clarke

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Duxford, Cambridgeshire
  • Interests
    Big Boys Toys!!

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10,090 profile views
  1. Free of charge to anyone that wants them: 1 x Multibend tube. I think these were supplied by RH in 2B kits for making up front mudguard brackets 1 x set of weather gear hood hoops for 2B £50 for:- 1 x 2B Screen complete with Kite marked glass. So I think this makes it OK for IVA. Collection only. I'm in Duxford on the M11. Tim
  2. Free of charge to anyone that wants them: 1 x Multibend tube. I think these were supplied by RH in 2B kits for making up front mudguard brackets 1 x set of weather gear hood hoops for 2B £50 for:- 1 x 2B Screen complete with Kite marked glass. So I think this makes it OK for IVA. Collection only. I'm in Duxford on the M11. Tim
  3. With mixed emotions after 12 years of ownership and development, I've finally decided the time has come to sell my 2B. Its too hardcore for what I need now, so if anyone would like to make me an offer it's on EBay. See the link for the full listing and spec. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Supercharged-Fuel-Injected-Robin-Hood-2B-Plus-/253013245483?hash=item3ae8c3be2b:g:YlEAAOSwjRpZTuYw £6,750 ono Thanks Tim
  4. How are the two throttles balanced? If the first opens before the second you could get the situation on light throttle openings where significant boost is being produced but the bypass is not open. So small throttle movements would cause large boost changes in the plenum. The bypass has quite a strong spring in it so a significant manifold depression is required before it starts opening and then it opens progressively as the depression increases. i.e. it does not snap fully open at the first hint of vacuum. My supercharger setup uses one throttle on the plenum after the SC. I soon discovered
  5. Just bought a new rear panel for my 2B from GBS £110 + VAT. Nice to find that replacement panels and GRP are still readily available to put right things that won't buff out.
  6. I use a CTEK charger / conditioner and have not lost a battery over the winter since. They come with a lead that you can permanently wire to the battery (as well as the usual crocodile clips) so that all you need to do is to unplug at the connector in the lead and drive away. No need to take the battery out. Tim
  7. Having now got my 2B in pieces after being rear ended, I can see that the wheel carrier doesn't do anything structural. But without it I wonder whether I would be typing this. The fuel tank was partially crushed and the fuel pipes were on the point of being severed. It was only the carrier and the spare wheel that cushioned the impact. Still, all other 7s have the tank in the same place and don't have spare wheels. Also you don't really want all that weight stuck out the back.
  8. Found them! Seems all I need to fit the panel is some clamps, pieces of wood, a pistol drill and a very large ball pein hammer! Unfortunately they don't show how the panel is formed from the flat laser cut sheet in the first place. At least I'll l have the old one to get some ideas from.
  9. Thanks for the input chaps. I think I'll have to dig out an old video player and the dreaded tapes to remind myself how the rear panel was fitted. I don't suppose anyone has had them digitised? Looking at photos of 2Bs and Superspecs with GRP wings it looks like I'll need to fit deeper st.st quadrant sections between where the rear panel stops and the side panel. I should get another session in the garage this weekend which will enable me to come up with a final parts list. Ken I'll drop you a P.M. Tim
  10. Right. Reached an agreement with the insurance company so can now start the planning for repairing my 2B. I'm going to need a rear stainless steel panel and a couple of mudguards (in red). Possibly a tank too. What do folk have? Any unbuilt 2Bs out there? Unless I can get hold of a pair of the stainless steel mudguards with the GRP edges, I will be using the full GRP type. GBS can still get these made (6 weeks lead time) but not sure if they fit as well as the originals. What are the problems / cures for fitting these to the rear panel. Anyone done this lately? Thanks Tim
  11. I've spoken to GBS today and they say they should be able to repair it, if not they can re-chassis it so keeping fingers crossed. Fortunately I paid the 10 quid extra for legal assistance when I renewed this year so A Plan have passed everything to loss recovery and injury claim companies to sort out. Looks like they will contact GBS to arrange transport / estimates etc..we will see! Yes the 2B is a tough bugger. Trouble is if it is stretched back to shape it wont be so strong and the fuel tank is right at the back. A couple of more mm and the fuel pipes would have gone. Have also realised th
  12. I was out for a run in the 2B Sat. morning when a bike smashed into the back of me. The rider had dropped it and the bike slid for 70ft before it hit me. According to my data log I was doing a steady 47mph (indicating for a left turn) so he must have been going quite a lick. He was lucky and seems to have got away with some nasty cuts and bruises. I’ve got whiplash. His bike (a large Triumph triple) is totalled. I’m wondering what is going to happen to my 2B. The obvious damage is to the rear panel and wings etc. However when you look closer, as the bike slid under the rear, it has shoved
  13. The best HP figure I saw on rollers was 182, but this was at less than 5000 rpm and the engine is built to rev to 7000rpm. The std Robin Hood 4:1 exhaust manifold I have is too restrictive so I need a bigger bore better designed alternative to make it rev more freely. Should do +200 ish eventually, However finding more HP is low on the priority list, the mid-range torque is massive and still a bit intimidating. A twitch of the big toe and the bypass valve shuts and you suddenly have full boost and warp dive.
  14. I used similar bearings, made them a tight fit and stuck them in with bearing fit loctite. 1500 miles later still OK. Incidentaly after working up to it I'm finally using a 1:2 drive ratio and am getting 12psi boost on my 2.0l Pinto.
  15. Yes, I was worried about the strength of the drive shaft with the long over hang, also the extra load it would put on the main rotor bearings. On most Eatons they have a separate shaft running in bearings in the drive nose that takes all the belt load from the drive and this has drive pegs between it and a rotor gear. Hence little load on the rotor bearing. In the US they have M62s without clutches. See photo of the two types.
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