Mrbarry

74db is barely more than a whisper. Our cars are all in trouble then. As for my motorbike with Yoshimura R77 exhaust No links no, I heard that on the radio this afternoon. It’s not zero but something like 10% over plus 5mph is a ban. So 38 in a 30 then. Unsure how accurate that is.

Has anyone seen the new wave of cameras on the streets? Went live this month. 1; mobile phone auto detection cameras: Software monitored cameras that look for drivers using a handset and automatically issue a NIP to the driver/keeper of the vehicle. A copy of the footage is also sent to the courts as evidence. I agree with these cameras if I’m honest. 2; noise cameras: There are hundreds of cameras fitted with noise monitors that can identify individual cars and their Db levels, again auto NIP etc. Seems a bit over the top. 3; Loads of average cameras: Same old same old. These ones are so tiny you would do well to see them. And they are popping up everywhere lately. The biggest issue here being the instant ban for doing hardly anything over the speed limit. Big brother is on overdrive!

Yes gets great reviews. Their jacks are said to be excellent so I have ordered one of those.

Volts drop is calculatable, you can measure the resistance of the cable, crimps, etc and you will loose some voltage as current flows. The formula is expressed as millivolts per amp per meter, there are correction factors such as temperature, battery internal resistance (leading to resistance network calculations), power factor, all sorts, you even gain a little resistance to something called the skin effect, it’s all very quantifiable but boring. you can use ohms law, V/I.R, and transpose it as you wish to get a few simple figures too. Think of resistance as you blowing water down a pipe. There is a pressure you apply to the end you blow in but at the other end the pressure is lower. That’s due to the water having mechanical drag as it passes the walls of the pipe, the longer the pipe the greater the differential. Eventually you can’t blow down it, not even a bit. The resistance of a long enough pipe will result in the water simply refusing to flow at the pressure you apply. Higher pressure is the same as higher voltage, it flows easier as it overcomes the resistance and can cover longer distances with lower drops. Current is like the volume of water that flows, expressed as amps in this case. That’s why the national grid distribute at 440kv, to save using cables 40 feet in diameter. 12v is very low voltage so current is always high, looking at the formula for volts drop low volts and/or high current result in increased voltage drop, so yes, cars are very susceptible to this phenomenon. there are tables and calculations to size appropriate cables, there are also rules of thumb and that’s all we need to use for a simple starter motor. sorry if that’s a long winded post. It’s what I do for a living I’m afraid

Tried and tested way to stop turbo bolts self loosening is piss in a biscuit tin and soak the nuts for a few days then fit them wet. Sounds mad (and questionable) but works. I decided to use castle pins on the head to hold the manifold and v band mounts for turbo for rapid changes, but piss does work.

Looking good. Get those trumpets into clean air

There was a great website for calculating ratios but it’s closed. Put diff ratio and tyre size, RPM limit, peak torque RPM etc in and it suggested road and race ratios. I’m sure there will be others if you have a google. As for upgrading 4-5 speed, I doubt it, none of the boxes I’ve worked on could be done because the shafts have to be longer to accommodate an additional pair of gears. The selector rods would need to accommodate an extra fork, and a 4 speed box would likely need an additional selector rod entirely because push pull x 2 rods is 4 speed. Unlikely they wasted an extra rod when they didn’t need to! There are other issues too. I’m won’t say it’s impossible on all boxes tho because my experience is limited to a small percentage of what is out there. And back to the shafts for a moment, thinner gears can be used rather than longer shafts but you would loose surface area thus strength, that’s compounded if you go for straight cut gears, It also changes the length of throw for selector forks and selector fork locating. Im going to be proven wrong now I know it

If you can build an engine you can build a box. Much easier. You need a few different tools but as long as you can read and measure you’ll be fine. Workshop manuals for gear box’s are easily downloaded. I’ve done dozens of manual box’s, never tried an auto. I would love a straight cut set for mine, 1-4 anyway, leave 5 helical for cruising.

Missed this post lol. Went to the Harrows and then headed off to see the sister in law, was too late when we got home. Should have thought to check the spread

Will this be on again next month? Monday 4th? Weather permitting I’ll be there. My mate will be along in his zero too.

Agreed. The world is becoming both automated and throw away. I’m afraid I’m guilty of assisting it too, I build electrical control for automated systems. It was a skill to watch, the dent didn’t simply push out from behind, it was very solid and took some extreme heavy hitting with a 2lb lump hammer believe it or not, all be it one with a mirror polished face. We didn’t have an anvil so makeshift tube in vice was used, then on to smaller hammers and dollies before filing, sanding and polishing.

Yeah I watched him do it, it took hours. He said it’s the hardest stainless he has ever seen. Work hardened I guess being hot and cold all the time. Vert impressive anyway.

I had a huge dent in my exhaust, I’m sure some of you will have seen it at the recent GBS open day. Steve at GBS was extremely helpful in offering a solution, a friend offered to sort it for me tho. He was a sheet metal worker and beat it back into round then polished it back up. Well chuffed. Did the extra rivet mod whilst it was off the car to stop the rattle. Before, during and after pictures:

I made a set from polyurethane in my last car. Very stif and you felt it vibrating in the cabin, I can’t tell you how great the driving experience tho. Best thing I ever did. Would not want them on a daily driver however.

Seems a mute point on our cars, the exhaust is at the side of the passenger compartment anyway, and with no roof.....

Me and the mrs would have been there but we are in A and E instead, doubt we will be out of here in a hurry its as busy as usual.

Looks likely yeah. I was going to try to kill them off, but actually as long as they don’t spread I think they are quite nice in an odd sort of way. I guess they have been growing there for years, new house this January, so unlikely they will spread or they already would have by now.

I can make it. Unsure about the kit but fingers crossed. Doing a few small jobs at the moment.

I’m not far from Penkridge, i’m in Coven.

I’m deffo not eating random shrooms. Either end up seeing things or dead knowing my luck. Agreed they get lots of watering in the uk. They grow by the river too but those are submerged today 🌧

Mushroom? Any experts? I have these growing in my garden, around 8-10 inches high and heavy. I put them in the bin but is it easy to kill them off??

Absolutely class!!

Well I’ve just made all new alloy panels to cover the trans tunnel and re covered them in nice new leather. Fitted new gaiters to handbrake and gear lever. Next jobs: 1: replace exhaust sleeve. Mine is dented. I removed the exhaust and stripped it tonight, new sleeve to be ordered tomorrow. 2: remove the rocker cover and spray it white. 3: paint the brake callipers to a decent standard. Paint the unswept area of the disks too. 4: Carbotech brake pads. 5: nose cone and arches re wrapped. 6: fit the boot cover properly. 7: new seats and belts. 8: finish fabricating an alloy header tank and swirl pot. Relocate the filler cap. Fab and fit expansion tank. 9: fit the fuel filler in the boot facing up so I can get fuel in the bugger!! 10: new fuel lines. 11: paint the wheels black. 12: some viper stripes.