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samss

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About samss

  • Rank
    Builder

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  • Location
    York

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    SuperSpec
  • Full name
    Sam Fox
  1. Sorry for the delay, I'm using a 1999 W210 E300 Turbodiesel Diff, It doesn't fit the subframe, it needs the sierra subframe diff bracket trimming slightly, going to have to make some sort of modified mounting, I'll take some photos! It will be something welded to the sierra tube / original bracket I suspect. The merc diff has 2 large bolts (looked like m14/m16!) on the rear casing and a thinner, maybe m10/m12 vertical mounting at the front of the diff. Swapping it on the advice of a friend who has built a few vehicles with such engines and his friend has broken a few sierra diffs in one vehicle! Although given the weight of the RH perhaps it wouldn't have been a problem, but.... whilst it's in bits, why not?! The 108mm shafts are from the sierra cosworth 2wd, but they fit my application I'll keep everyone up to date, hoping to crack on with it in the next week, got to get a weatherproof workspace set up for winter!
  2. I'm swapping my diff for one from a Mercedes, which like the Cosworth 2.0 2WD Sierra uses 108mm Lobros with 10mm bolts. The standard sierra, if using the Lobro type (as usually found on disc braked donors) are typically 100mm lobros and 8mm bolts. I thought this might help if anyone wants to fit a cosworth diff to their car. J & R Driveshafts ( http://www.jandrcvjoints.co.uk- also on ebay, but website currently cheaper ) now sell the correct drive shafts to take the 108mm Lobros (which are a different spline count to the shaft that take 100mm lobros usually). The lengths are very similar to standard sierra ones. I purchased: 460mm Shaft: BAR12 £24inc vat 503mm Shaft: BAR13 £24inc vat 4x CV Joints with boots and circlips: JR454 @ £39.99each inc vat (these are 40mm thick) As you can see the drive shafts themselves are cheap, it's the joints that aren't when you need 4! I also bought 2x hub stub flanges for 108mm lobros, which I have yet to confirm fit a standard disc braked setup. they were £24 each part number: JR470. You appear to be able to buy the complete shaft made up for the same price, but it didn't confirm dimensions on the website, so i ordered the bits (dead easy as it's only 2x circlips, grease and 2x crimps for the boots. Sam
  3. samss

    Rear Drive Shafts

    So are these too short for your application, how do they not fit, do the bolts fit? Sorry for all the questions!
  4. samss

    Rear Drive Shafts

    I know it's a pain, but is there any chance you could count the number of splines on each end? Also do you know what length both of them are? I don't have an old one to go from either, it's a right carry on! But I know i need some my original length but 108mm rather than the 100mm i've got Who'd think there are so many combinations? Thanks Sam
  5. samss

    Rear Drive Shafts

    What's the difference between cosworth and the ones you have for sale?
  6. samss

    New Led Street Lights

    One of my dislikes too, along with emergency services blue coloured christmas lights (that'll be here soon) and flashy blue and red shop open signs. My eyes seem pretty sensitive to flickering too, and that causes tail lights and brake lights that are PWM dimmed to jump around, especially when moving my eyes to the mirrors (also ruins the experience of my friends home cinema, as it's all rainbows) makes driving a pain sometimes. The blue christmas lights were bound to happen as blue LED's became cheaper i guess, but white street lights surely can only be a design feature, and surely they must be approved / selected for their use.... some amber in there would change the colour a bit, haven't they seen philips hue etc!!!?
  7. samss

    Rear Drive Shafts

    Eek richyb66, I saw this and hoped they would be right http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132213135653
  8. samss

    Insomnia...almost

    I've come across some absolutely terrible brake pads in my time! One customer had cheap ebay ones, and one stop from 60mph and they started to fade and stink, I found this out on road test via a sharp bend! I seem to remember him thinking they were rubbish, but never said anything to me (they never do!). Everything was working as it should as i'd just stripped and cleaned them all. Fitted some motor factor ones (happened to be ferodo) and the brakes were excellent again. Scary thing is it would pass MOT fine, as there isn't usually any heat in them when tested at low speed on the rollers. Another guy had a set of green stuff pads, he was a mad driver though to be fair, used to eat a set every year without fail, and one time he called me, one of the wheels locked when hot. Not under heavy braking, but gentle braking! I never did figure out the cause as he just wanted replacements and it wasn't worth his time chasing EBC up. I drove through a 30 zone and touched the brakes and the wheel locked solid, tyre smoke everywhere. Again, brakes free, calipers in working order etc. Replaced with new, all good again! anyway rant over, but worth checking out the pads before condemning other parts for sure! and if running a servo it's worth checking that works as they would in an mot pumping it hard then starting car with foot on pedal to check assistance happens as vacuum builds up etc.
  9. samss

    Rear Drive Shafts

    I'm after 108mm Lobro Shafts and drive flanges as changing to a merc Diff which is 108mm, I was considering buying from J&R as they sell them. I currently have a 3.92 Diff with 100mm lobros and will have the 100mm drive flanges, and driveshafts to go with it if any good we could sort something out? Sam.
  10. samss

    Road Tax

    It's a pain, but that's correct for over 1549cc. £245 eeek, not looking forward to taxing mine now haha I remember us being £200 ish max. My 10.5litre 9.5mpg double decker bus costs £165 a year on "private HGV" tax! sadly that's only for vehicles over 3.5t gross, but means motorhomes over 3.5t can get that rate. I still think it should be included in fuel, but then they add extra onto fuel too "just because", it's all a way of taking more money out of us.
  11. samss

    Non Start, Alternator Hot

    If it's getting hot, something is going on! If the alternator has been tested and the diode pack is okay, what about the 12v ignition feed, is that correctly wired as per however that alternator is meant to be wired through the bulb or however it's meant to be? Could that be permanently receiving a feed for some reason?
  12. samss

    Superspec Turbo Diesel

    The mostly complete cradle frame. Just needs sleeved holes, and the ends capping off. Having a practice go at some TIG welding some stainless brackets onto the stainless chassis. The finished brackets on the chassis didn't turn out anything like as neat as this! But.... aslong as it's strong, I'm not too bothered, as it won't really be seen. Turns out welding in situ is alot harder with TIG than it is on the bench. Mig is so much more "point and shoot".
  13. samss

    Superspec Turbo Diesel

    After owning the superspec for 12years but having been off the road for most of that, I decided it was time to get her back on the road! I've had a long term desire for a fast diesel, and after falling in love with the "superturbodiesel" scene a few years ago, I'd slowly been collecting parts to make my vito van into a 500bhp monster. This project hadnt been progressing, and the van was slowly falling to pieces. The mrs rightly said "keep one, kitcar or van". So the decision was made! So far the spec of the 'spec is as follows: - 3litre straight six OM606 turbodiesel engine as found in the 1996-1999 era merc e-classes. Theyre 176bhp as standard i believe and are fuelled by an electronically controlled fuel rack yet mechanical injection pump. This means they have an ECU which can only control boost and the fuel rack position. - Holset HX40 from some large truck, this is capable of 500bhp worth of boost, although it may be oversized for the hood, and be laggy and lack low end boost, as I have it I will try it! - Mercedes 722.6 Electronically controlled 5 speed automatic gearbox. It's from a larger power engine so has a higher torque ability before slipping than the standard e-class one, although its essentially the same gearbox. This will be controlled by a stand alone ECU which will support a sequential gearstick (had paddles on a smart car, not sure i like that) - large Air to water chargecooler allowing remote mounting of the cooler radiator. To accomodate all of this the engine radiator will be rear mounted, ducting air from underneath through vertical mounted radiator and out large louvres and the apare wheel will be incorporated as a vent. - the differential will be the mercedes eclass one as they are proven to take obscene amounts of torque, whereas sierra ones seem limited, although i'm not sure how much torque it will see before spinning the wheels up! By chance the lobros are same size as sierra cosworth ones and shaft length will be same as the diff flanges are same distance apart. The usual method of producing serious power with a om606 engine is to swap the injection pump for a modified larger element rebuilt manual pump. However I'm opting for a standalone ECU and uprated electronic pump. This will communicate over CAN with the gearbox ECU allowing the possibility of cruise control, torque limiting on gear changes to protect gearbox, and all sensors to be shared. It will also allow me to run smoke-free by means of altering the map, allegedly! So far I have got the engine and gearbox into position, this required only the front rover engine mount crosstube to be removed and some footwell mods. I will replace this tube slightly further forward. The passenger footwell requires narrowing 15mm to allow movement of the gear selector cable mechanism. The tunnel requires slight modification to allow the thicker propshaft clearance. Amazingly the length of the engine doesnt really pose a problem. It is tight, but not too tight. The gearbox back end just clears the chassis tubes, there might be 5mm in it! The clutch pedal area of the drivers footwell has been modified and will make use of a "footrest" to hide the modificaion to make room for the gearbox cooler pipe banjo. The height means the bonnet will need a bulge, however I have decided to lift the scuttle and bonnet and nosecone to avpid this as i am yet to see a bulge that i like. It would need 50mm to clear and allow movement on mounts, however having driven a lowered beetle round and realising the state of the roads has declined somewhat I realised I should make the sump as high as possible so have made the bonnet clearance 100mm taller. I have some 100x50 stainless box to do this with. It may look odd being taller, but then it is an odd project! The engine mounts on most rwd mercedes are two giant bobbins that bolt vertically through engine mount arms and into the subframe. I was concerned about strength of the chassis in this area as its in the middle of the run between front suspension and where the tubes are tied together around the steering column area (where original superspec mounts were). I decided a simple box section subframe was the best solution that could span under the engine (no lower than sump) this would tie the side rails together side to side and the 3x members vertically. It should be very strong. Yes it will be heavy, but The superspec is no racing car, it always was a larger cruiser! Updates to follow! Sam
  14. samss

    Attention: All Superspec Owners

    Hey Speccers, I'm Sam Fox. Not sure what number mine is, but i've owned her from new, she was registered in 09, managed to cover about 2k in her! The superspec has been in a manky shed for years, I'm back on it now. Engine swap to a merc 3litre *cough* Diesel :-D, hoping to go superturbodiesel with her (big fuel pump, big turbo and a decent amount of power! ) Progress is alright but then it would be as i've only spent a couple of days getting engine physically in to assess space and so forth. Will keep everyone updated with a thread at some point! Currently learning to TIG ready for a few modifications including some engine mounts which are much firther forward now so going to tie all three chassis tubes on each side and make a removable cradle under the engine like a "U" shape. I've got some stainless to make the chassis brackets with, then the gearbox bracket needs dealing with before I do anymore! Photos to follow! I will get round to making a list of unwanted original superspec bits for sale and get back to those who asked a while back. I must or the mrs will kill me! I'm living near Goole now. Sam
  15. samss

    Superspecs At Stoneleigh

    I'll be at Stoneleigh, not with my superspec unfortunately. I don't mean to hijack your thread, but I'm swapping the Rover T Series for something else, so will be selling all the rover related stuff, it's only done 2-3k I was hoping to do a for sale thread post listing it all, but won't have time now before Stoneleigh as i'm away this week.The engine was seized from being stood (did fill cylinders with oil a while back) so will need to check extent of damage before i list it all accurately. But if anyone needs any easy to remove bits bringing to stoneleigh in the mean time feel free to drop me a PM and I will try! - Sam
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