sorme

The replacement 2wd Cosworth clutch cable fits great,in the past I've had struggles with getting the standard cable to racket up, I think because of the sharp angle via in-between manifold, just put the cossy cable on 2 pushes of the pedal started the car and in went into gear smooth as butter,thanks for recommending the cossy cable,the old cable been on a year,I'd heat wrapped it made a bracket to keep away for manifold just looked at it and it's melted and seized.

Does it look like this racket end? Then a smaller one clutch end,I've had a couple cables I bought that were wrong,I just assumed classic ford cables would all be the same but there not.

Just ordered the QCC1585 cable from Burton power,cost £30 but hopefully fingers crossed.

Cheers great help

Is this a longer cable ? Found one on Burton power doesn't say if its a bit longer though.

Give anything a try.

Any help?running a pinto and I keep going through clutch cables more than I'd like,its due to it running between the manifold,I've heat wrapped the last one but still after near on a year its starting to become hard ( after a run and warm) to get into reverse gear without a clunk!! as the cable stretches. Struggling to find a extra long cable as it's a 82-84 and it's the cable with little T style ends,plenty out there with the eyelet type/ adjustable. Or is there any companies out there that make cables up.

Cheers

Hi have you still got the hood Cheers Simon

As long as the nut and bolt do not rub on your tyres,as the clearance should not change as the wheels and guards move together,I can just manage to get the nuts on the bolts on mine.

Have seen there expensive ones,did think about having a weld on one like in grass track racing etc

Yep mine is like the first picture,on my second one now,its the little rubber bits that wear down on mine that stick out on the surface when the wheel is off,if I pull them out and pop them back in it tightens up a bit but after a week or so the play comes back.

As anyone bought a slim quick release hub that lasts more than 2 months before you start to get play/ wobble in it? I'm running a Sierra column and on my 3rd quick release hub,the best one was a sparco looky likey which worked great but put the wheel under my chin so I purchased a slim one ( cheap £20) which to start with was great but after a few months the wobble starts,I'm on the 2nd slim one now just starting to wobble,I know that you can buy some for £100 + but just wondering if there are any around a bit cheap( that lasts) .

Can anyone help I've got a s7 and just had the front arche bracket snap today where it mounts on the top ball joint, I did a quick weld repair (on the car)but just been out again and it's gone again needs removing and welding properly but I was thinking of just getting a new set for both sides,I see for sale sets for the 2b but will these fit my s7? As they cost around £140 I don't what to buy them and find out they do not fit,any help?

Yep have to flush it all out ,then keep bleeding all the nipples till the new stuff comes through,pretty easy to spot as the silicone fluid is a purple colour I have the master cylinder off as well to clean it out and replace the seals,typical though now the weather as changed to take it a big run( no wet gear)

I've just bought today some top silicone fluid to put in very high boiling point and some decent heat proof sleeving for the brake pipes,I did buy off eBay a manifold and exhaust (s/s) pretty cheap and tried for about all of 10 minutes to get it on,getting half through the side panel then gave up ,thinking now I could have fitted it by removing the master cylinder plus manifold studs,I resold it on ebay,wish I hadn't now! Hopefully change of fluid should help as this Automec as boiling point of 260 °C

I've just bought today some top silicone fluid to put in very high boiling point and some decent heat proof sleeving for the brake pipes,I did buy off eBay a manifold and exhaust (s/s) pretty cheap and tried for about all of 10 minutes to get it on,getting half through the side panel then gave up ,thinking now I could have fitted it by removing the master cylinder plus manifold studs,I resold it on ebay,wish I hadn't now! Hopefully change of fluid should help as this Automec as boiling point of 260 °C

Posted yesterday about my brake fluid boiling because of the manifold running close to the master cylinder,(not the normal manifold)do standard pinto manifold s fit ?ie rs2000 ? Or are the robin hood manifolds made to measure, I know the top of manifolds the same it's just where it goes through the side panel,mine at the minute goes over the side panel and then down.

That's probably the best option,the master cylinder that's on the car now as two connections on the (looking from the front of engine) r/ hand side and one underneath that goes straight between the manifold, me mate sad it looks like a transit van master cylinder.

It's got a little bit of heat proof tape on but it as come from China so it's maybe not doing any thing,will have to try this better stuff.

Cheers,I've got a brake pipe kit in me shed some where,just been out again in it brakes great to start with then with in 10 mins brakes gone,when I got back from the m o t early on I took cap off the reservoir and the fluid was near boiling.

Hi I've got a s7 running sierra 1983 set up,because the exhaust manifold goes over the side and down (not down and out via round hole in the side panel)the brake master cylinder is only just clearing the manifold and one brake pipe goes between the manifold, which up to a few weeks ago wasn't a problem until the warm weather came now it's boiling the brake fluid plus m o t advised it needs altering.as anyone fitted a remote servo/done away with the brake booster/moved the cylinder? If so which is the best to go fo. Any help ??

Have you got WhatsApp? If you have send us ya number can do it that way,I've taken the tyres off now (still have tyres) as I was going to refurb them my self

All sold except wheels