RevKev

So the RH 2B creeps very slowly toward completion. The next task is to mount the handbrake on the centre chassis tubes behind the gear stick. So those who have done this, do tell me how you set it up. Did you make a bracket to left the entire handbrake lever above the tubes? OR remove material from the tubes to drop it down in? Is the handbrake lever mounted to the side? Where did you run the handbrake cable? Is it inside the tunnel? (I already have fuel line and brake line clipped to the underside of the central tubes and don't want this to clash nor am I daft on a snapped cable wrapping itself around the prop shaft) OR does the cable run on top of the tunnel? I assume it has to be covered to keep Mr IVA happy. Any advice, suggestions or photographs are welcome! Many thanks in advance Kevin

As I understand it the oil level is not so much to do with quantity of oil as the height of the oil in the sump so that it does not meet with the big end bearings. Of course a shortened sump will hold less oil than the original but the original dipstick can still be used as the Max Level is still right for the bearings. I'm sure my Pinto 2.0l takes 3.25 litres with a shortened sump. Other thought is... are you sure previous owner has circumcised his dipstick OR has the end of it fallen off in the sump? Does it look like its cut? Kevin

I'm workin' on it. One little job at a time.

Looks to me like every electric component in the ignition has been checked so what about fuel. OK its pumping to the carb but that doesn't mean the carb is letting it into the cylinders. Check for blockages in the jets. Can't be sure it will answer your problems but it can't do any harm to pull the carb off and clean it out. AND you can do it inside the house where its nice and warm! Don't say I'm not good to you!!

Hi. Just a thought here from someone who is not an expert! I'm running a similar set up on a 2.0l pinto. Mikuni R1 carbs using a Dan ST inlet so there is no vacuum feed for the dizzy. I swapped out the standard dizzy (which was electronic for the original EFi) and replaced with a centrifugal / spring advance one. I don't seem to have any issues. If the dizzy you have on your pinto requires the vacuum advance and its not hooked up you'll never get the right ignition timing apart from the static 14 degrees BTDC Kevin

Fun and games ain't it. I know there's been some changes in Mot rules but it mainly has to do with cars failing and not being allowed to take them away for repair as they are instantly deemed not roadworthy. I think. Sometimes people would get their car MoT'd early, it would fail but still claim to have a valid MoT for the next month. Not any more. So really now its not worth taking your car to a test station to see if it will pass or not. get it checked out. Do the repairs. Get it tested. Otherwise you are at the mercy of the MoT station for repairs. Anyway as I'm in the midst of building my 2B plus from an abandoned project I watch all this with interest. I don't think its got to do with the date of registration of your car but the date of manufacture of the engine, which can also be interpreted as date of first use not date of first registration. So the 30 year old Pinto under my 2B's bonnet is not expected to meet 2018 emissions testing requirements. I hang on to the registration of the old Sierra the engine came from to prove the engine is manufactured Dec 1988. The Sierra registered Jan 1989. The registration does not declare any manufacturers CO2 emissions levels. What CO2 figure is an MoT test meant to compare it too then? Of course your 2B has high CO2 emissions, high compared to what? Fingers crossed for when I get to IVA and MoT testing cause if they spot the dirty great big carbs on the side of the cylinder head... well you know what I mean. From 1975 the emissions test was simply no visible signs of smoke. Those were the days! If your 2B is an "E" plate then let me assume it was registered as a new vehicle in 1988. Even though the engine might be a lot older it will have to comply with 1988 regulations, rather than a "Q" plate which is a vehicle of indeterminate age. Seldom do enough donor parts come across to make it possible to keep the original registration of the donor vehicle. In which case the blurb on the Gov. UK website would suggest a visual check is all that is required of your vehicle to make sure no smoke is coming out the exhaust. Looks like Theresa has relaxed some emissions controls for us. Could Brexit be a good thing!!!?? Do I think that your MoT test station has got it wrong... quite possibly. How many of them actually keep up with the memos?

Hi. Let me echo the above. i'm in the middle of a 2B + build with an old 2l Pinto. Picked up a Polo rad off eBay for £40 brand new. Yes the inlet outlet are on the same side of the rad and a bit of a pain to plumb in but job done with some hoses from ASH. Kept the rad angled back to improve surface area expose to the air flow. Seems OK so far. I think this is the article that helped me work out rad size. What size radiator do I need for my car? | Super 7th Heaven Kevin

Hope you don't mind if I throw in my ha'pennies worth. Now I'm no expert on fuel systems but it seems to me that if you're issue arose from the shortcomings of the petrol tank a lot of people would be reporting the issue... it would be a common problem and I don't get the impression that it is. So maybe something else is at play in what is essentially an intermittent fault. Your fuel system uses electrics too. Worth checking the you don't have a short or bad connection to the fuel pump that only shows up when you do those right hand bends on round about. Is there a wire rubbing on the chases that's worn through the insulation? Do you have issues with the pressure regulator or a faulty fuel pressure sensor. Yes it a pain doing of the checks but it might save you money buying a new petrol tank only to find you've got the same problem afterward. Kevin

Hi I've got plenty off cuts of ASH silicon hoses as I've been putting the cooling system together on my Robin Hood 2B. Happy to send you an off cut and you can steep it in OAT and see what happens. Just give me an address and I'll post it off to you Kevin

Hi Andy, Just a thought... I know that silicon rubber and petrol is not a good mix. You need a floor lined sitcom hose where it comes in contact with petrol but I'm not sure about OAT (Organic Acid Technology) antifreeze. So thing is you'll need to drain the cooling system when you are replacing the hoses so why not use a different antifreeze when you fill it up again! Here's link I found that might help you https://www.viperperformance.co.uk/plainpage.php?pgId=60 Kevin

Let me assume your engine was running fine before you cleaned up the carbs and put in new floats. And you haven't changed to bigger jets or anything like that so no reason to assume that anything has gone wrong with them. 160 jets seems to be about right for a 2litre. Are you sure you have put your carbs back together properly (no air leaks or gaps or badly seated gaskets) and your carbs are sealed to the manifold runners (no air leaks there?) Are the rubber joiners in good condition? Vacuum hose to brake servo all good? Just about the only thing that you can reasonably adjust is the idle mixture. Try a quarter turn in (or out) on each idle needle and see if it gets better or worse. You won't end up with a finely tuned engine but you might make it drivable enough to get it to a rolling road. Carb Cleaner doesn't always agreed with rubber "O" rings etc on carbs. Sometimes when cleaning them its easy to overlook the "O" ring on any needle valve assemblies or seats. Sure its a pain to think about stripping carbs to check it so maybe that's a last resort. Do the simple checks first Colourtune is another option that might let you "see" if the mixture is giving a nice clean blue burn. Just a few thoughts Kevin

Hi Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who chipped in above. I now have a running Pinto. Dare say it still needs tweaking but at least I know its a runner so I can press on with everything else that needs done. And everything else does need done! Kevin

Hi, I've recently had to acquire one of these brake masters myself and they are hard to come by. Eventually got one from Kit Spares (kitspares.co.uk) which is owned (I think) by Great British Sports cars. I'm sure they bought out Robin Hood in 2006. You can get left hand drive master cylinders from Euro Parts but they cost an absolute fortune! Go to kit spares and you'll pay £87 for a brand new one. Kevin

Sadly I don't have the original injection system that the Pinto ran on so i'm probably going to have to work with a number of variables until I get them all ironed out. DanST jets for the 2.0l are 1.6 mm so I'll go down that route. Wasn't expecting it to be hassle free in these early stages but it does look like a full carb strip down and clean up won't do any harm. I'll upgrade the main jets at the same time.

Hi. Simple answer is NO. Not done the jetting on them. I know I can get main jets from DanST. What about the pilot jet? Do they need replacing too or is adjustment on the pilot screw sufficient? Will changing the jets resolve the issue I'm having? So many questions!!!!!

Hi Everyone! So I'm new to all this kit car stuff. Maybe just living out a childhood dream. I wonder if anyone can help me out. I've taken on an abandoned project of a Robin Hood 2B with a 2.0 Pinto up front,which probably hasn't been fired up in 15 years. Fast road cam hiding under the rocker cover and I've picked up a set of Mikuni R1 carbs from eBay - old but not abused and fitted them up to a manifold from DanST. I'm using at Yamaha R1 fuel pump. Now I can get the engine to fire up and it idles for a short time before cutting out. I've adjusted the pilot screw and its about as good as I can get it. BUT, and here's the issue... it simply won't throttle up. Opening the butterflies does not make the sliders lift. To me it looks like there is a problem with the vacuum. Is there a vacuum connection somewhere that i'm missing? Or is it crap in the carbs? Are the vacuum diaphragms all linked as none of them lift. Blowing into the vacuum chamber vent tubes will push the sliders up so i know that are not stuck. What am I doing wrong????? Kevin