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MrToad last won the day on December 29 2018

MrToad had the most liked content!

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About MrToad

  • Rank
    Getting there Builder
  • Birthday 01/07/1953

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    engines - all varieties, woodwork, building construction, everything mechanical, electrical repairs, Rugby, motor racing

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    Westfield/Cosworth FW
  • Full name
    Jim SANGER

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  • E-mail

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946 profile views
  1. MrToad

    Zetec engine start first time

    Word of Caution. Only use easy start as a last resort or very sparingly as it scavenges the oil from the bore of the cylinders creating metal on metal contact for the rings. Far better to use an oil can with petrol in it to see if firing. I banned the use of it for our hire equipment as it caused many engine failures when over used.
  2. MrToad

    Best Laid Plans!!!

    Catch me doing anything like that
  3. MrToad

    Engine oil

    Good to see your getting back on the road. As the majority of us(kit car users) mainly use our vehicles during the warmer periods of the year the question of oil choice is slightly different as Ford specifications are written around all year use. That saying I expect that the usage is going to be 3 to 5000 miles per year and this also changes the choices. Oil changes should be done every year especially as our cars spend a lot of time parked up which will allow them to get condensation in the engine which does not get evaporated off with regular use. All that said if you are running within Fords tuning range and a lot of short journeys it is best to stay within their specifications going more to the thicker grades within the limits. As long as these specifications are met any oil will be OK as the more expensive oils are usually containing more exotic additives which mostly only come into play at higher miles (absorbing contaminates etc.). Don't be tempted to go for higher specification oils as they can cause other problems like glazing of the bores, tappet wear with many others. Synthetic and semi-synthetic oils have the advantages of staying longer within the manufacturers tolerances which if running normal or slightly raised power will not be an issue. Basically all the advice given is good and for your engine the choice is huge and is down to the personal taste - don't spend too much on the oil just change it regularly! Please disregard this if your engine is in a high state of tune as they will have there own requirements. P.S. My company vans and cars achieved many operating miles(one recorded over 500,000 and still going) using cheap multi-grade oil bought in 205 litre drums by changing the filter and oil within 3000 miles.
  4. My daughter has just had a baby on Sunday, this will be very apt.
  5. MrToad

    Peak District Cruise

    Hi, Just a warning that Harvester as a group, also other restaurant chains have let out their car parking to Euro car parks and they are extremely officious about use of the spaces. They have very small signage(just enough to cover the legal aspect) and record vehicles entering the parking with number plate recognition. The user of the parking space then has to register with Harvester desk and insert number plate details. I have had the threat of prosecution even though I was using the restaurant at Milton and got off with a warning(I wouldn't have paid anyway) as it was only just installed. If you have sorted clearance or the Harvester you are going to meet at is not yet converted please disregard my warning!
  6. I bet the floor to the workshop was a lot clearer with this, could be the new answer to going green
  7. MrToad

    Weather Protection

    Thanks for all the input. Looks like the surrey/half hood wins.
  8. MrToad

    Weather Protection

    Hi, I completed car late last year and apart from a few sunny days have not put many miles on it. I now want to carry out some weather protection as UK weather is known for it's changeability to allow further distances. My car is very amusing in wet conditions so don't intend to go out purposely in the rain. Also I am weighing in at 17 stone so small openings are out. Question is - which do I go for Tonneau or Surrey and who are best to supply?
  9. MrToad

    Wiring wiper motor.

    I use this set up in my car although I used the full Ford wiring adapted to suit the reduced needs. On the wiring the connector colours are different to the Ford Sierra switch/stalk and looking at the connector they are as follows: connector black(earth) Sierra brown(earth) blue/green(fast) brown/green(park) red(fast) brown/white(park) red/green(slow) green(common live) green(slow) black/violet(c.live) The details are Sierra relevant to 87 to 89 models, although I think other years are similar. Due to my using the Ford system I have kept the relays and might be different to yours but it is important to earth the body of the motor, especially as you may have it mounted on plastic/glass fibre.
  10. MrToad

    Wiring wiper motor.

    Just an idea but I had problems with auto parking due to a faulty earth, mine was due to the body of the motor not being earthed.
  11. MrToad

    First run

    Hi, if you type in on line "Westfield ride height" they have superb details of vehicle set up, which is a good start and then you can fine adjust to your own preferences.
  12. MrToad

    Brand new zetec start up oil

    On oil specification speak or email Millers oils who have superb knowledge for use and options for their lubricants - also a lot of the racing/rallying scene rely on their products and they will advise as to the state of tune or intended use of the vehicle. Personally I would change the oil after a short running in period to flush out any early bedding in particles, although modern engines generally do not require this due to the high grade materials now used. If going to do an early oil change as long as you follow the manufacturers recommendations the cheaper the better as the additives that make up the more expensive oils will not have a chance of working properly. Then the advice from Millers or similar should be followed. As to the capacity email the raceline people or just slowly fill checking the dip stick regularly, I have found that capacities are only a guide as many factors will alter actual amounts. Generally start low and slowly fill to full as it's more trouble to remove than add, if normally aspirated slight overfilling not too much of a problem whereas turbos are not to be overfilled at all.
  13. MrToad

    Clutch conversion

    Sorry about that as Bob rightly says the bore size needs to be reduced to decrease the amount of effort required. Apologies
  14. MrToad

    Clutch conversion

    I am using the standard 2wd Cosworth cable in mine and it's able to go under the sump and fit square on with the clutch arm with no tight bends. Only real reason to go hydraulic would be if a competition clutch is used due to the heavier springs. I am using a T5 gearbox but I think the opening is similar (nearside). Removing the brake servo should be straightforward but if it's not getting in the way seems counter productive. If you do remove the servo you may require to get a bigger master cylinder according to the brakes you have, I have used the calipers from the Cosworth and these are 4 pot front. With my installation I have no room for a servo so the master is a bigger bore unit to make the pressure light enough - would have failed the IVA with too high brake pedal pressure.
  15. MrToad

    Steering column vibration

    Bit of different information that may or may not be of use. In the construction industry I have had a few large machines that used long thin shafts for operating selectors, drill bits, breaker steels, etc. These often experienced unwanted vibration and the simple cure was to slide heavy duty rubber tube along the shaft, it always amazed at the effect that it made preventing excess vibration and noise. You may find that a length of suitable shrink tubing or tight fitting tubing may have a beneficial effect if the shaft is causing the judder, if not it's a fairly cheap experiment Jim