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MrToad

RHOCaR Member
  • Content Count

    105
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MrToad last won the day on December 29 2018

MrToad had the most liked content!

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22 Excellent

About MrToad

  • Rank
    Wheely good builder!
  • Birthday 01/07/1953

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    Westfield/Cosworth FW
  • Full name
    Jim SANGER

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Thatcham
  • Interests
    engines - all varieties, woodwork, building construction, everything mechanical, electrical repairs, Rugby, motor racing

Contact Methods

  • E-mail
    jimrsanger@gmail.com

Recent Profile Visitors

1,034 profile views
  1. I used short lengths of braided rubber at engine and tank ends to absorb any movement and the rest I also routed along the transmission tunnel in plastic coated copper. It's very strong bends easily and fittings are plentiful, I also used it to make sure approved by IVA. Additionally as I'm running Fuel injection I have 2 runs, feed and return. Easily handles the pressure as I had a blockage and gauge read 10 bar without the hint of a leak. If running through trans tunnel make sure to give enough room around the gearbox, I had to put through steel tube to make sure as tolerance was small (I had routed the tubes under the floor at the front but transporting on trailer flattened them - hence the blockage).
  2. MrToad

    Electric water pump

    I think I should have taken more attention when doing "fluid flows" at college, not that at this age I could remember what I did at college. I see that I will just have to bite the bullet and try out some locations, keeping a check and reverting when necessary. As said I don't need a lot of flow through the radiators just enough to circulate when at rest, probably a winter project.
  3. MrToad

    Electric water pump

    Hi phaeton, I was wondering if this way as well. So your friend fitted with effectively a lay-by, however wouldn't the flow take the route of least resistance? I'm so paranoid about affecting the flows on what is a complex system that seems otherwise to be working well and I'm loath to fit a non return valve with their restrictions and failure record. I have fitted a Davies Craig pump in the cooling line from the header tank(directly fed from the turbo) and this then feeds through a small non fan radiator back to the bottom hose but it's not reducing the cooling time, I think it's following the route of least resistance back through the main pump and through the turbo again.
  4. MrToad

    Electric water pump

    Thank you all for your input I will have to do some investigations. The problem with the OEM pumps is finding out the hose diameter, I suppose a trip to a breakers is the ideal solution. theduck - thanks for this info, what size are the hose tails? I'd like to insert it into the bottom hose which is 32mm. My system is automatically set for the sensor to keep the fan going until under 82 degrees, I have this sensor in the hose close to the thermostat, I have been advised by another mechanic that it would be better in the bottom hose but I have had other advise otherwise. I have fitted a smaller Craig Davies 16mm pump into the system and although I have it on the turbo circuit it bypasses the main system not affecting the cooling of the fan.
  5. MrToad

    Electric water pump

    Exactly my thoughts
  6. Good Luck on move. Gear yourself up to the sudden change of pace lol.
  7. Hi, I need to source an electric water pump for my radiator system as my radiators are remotely sited down the side of the chassis. Everything is running fine and temperature is well under control however when I stop the ecu continues the fan going until the engine has cooled to 82 degrees(quite a long time), as the radiators are off to the side they get cool very quickly but the engine remains hot. Engine is Cosworth YB with T3 turbo and large intercooler taking the position in the front so I don't really want to fit a front fan. Has anyone any recommendations of a pump that will fit in the main hose whilst keeping the mechanical unit?
  8. MrToad

    Starting problem

    I have found that my engine/ecu works best with basic spark plugs in my case NGK BCR8ES and when I have tried to use the expensive options it misfires and carbons up - my tuner has said that he has found that some times this is the case and depends greatly on the mapping criterias. The other problem I had was that the spark plug was passing current along the outside of the ceramic casing - try fully cleaning outside of plugs, clean connections to leads and lubricate with GT85/WD40 or similar insulating compound to make sure no jumping of spark can occur. Some sheath the spark plugs with thin silicone tubing to assist with this. It may not be the answer but it is a simple cheap try to cure the problem.
  9. MrToad

    Mot

    Easiest way to bypass heater is to connect the 2 pipes together feeding the heater matrix, usually 19/20mm, that way any flow is kept as engine intended. With the heater matrix itself disconnect the fan wire and isolate, then undo any securing fixings to the casing plus any feed ducting to the windscreen/footwell etc.. According to how many wires you have under the dash it should pull out although I know mine would need the scuttle removed as I have ecu in passenger footwell and steering column in drivers even though it's only a mini unit.. Unless you need the space for anything else or it's not working it is quite a lot of work for little gain.
  10. Could be many things but I would start with the fuel system. First off I would check that the regulator is working correctly by pressure testing it, should hold pressure up to that stated in data, mine is 3.5 bar but yours may be lower. If it is either much lower or higher you have found the problem - lower and it is not allowing enough fuel to feed the injectors (sounds promising when your engine failed during high load operation) - higher and you will be over pressuring injectors (however you would have noticed poor tick-over and probably carbon deposits on the spark plugs). If regulator ok try the fuel pump by putting pressure guage in fuel line (blocking off regulator and return fuel line), again refer to manufacturers data about maximum pressure, again mine is high at 8 to 10 bar but I suspect yours should be around 5 bar. If low pressure your not getting enough fuel and either the pump is faulty or you have a restriction in the fuel line (blocked pipes, filters, kinks in fuel line etc.). You may have to do some messing around with fuel pipes but having a pressure test point in the fuel line is useful in these cases and getting the pressure testing kits is fairly cheap on-line. Check out these before venturing into the world of electrickery. Best of luck, Jim
  11. pcd is 82mm by my measurements and there are 6 fixings. It hasn't a horn button because I have remotely fitted horn jack so that quick release wheels are easier to use. Boss was taken off an existing Sierra wheel as had trouble getting a reasonably priced centre that included the locking ring as this was my secondary isolation device for the IVA. I only bought this for the IVA as it was a guaranteed approval and came without the boss for the same price as selling. If determined to keep centre push either Brumster' suggestion or revert to the original once IVA approved.
  12. I used an old Westfield steering wheel which has the whole of the centre padded and was a guaranteed pass for that situation. As your picture this would be a sure fails as there is too much hard surfaces. I have the Westfield steering wheel for sale £25 + £5 delivery, it is 300mm diameter, black, in perfect condition and I had adapted it to fit the standard shaft of a Sierra. Alternatively you could make a rubber covering for the wheel and as long as it looks the part and is firmly in position it would cover the IVA requirements.
  13. Personally unless the tank has already got welded on securing points I'd keep with the straps. Full of fuel the tank is quite a heavy lump and trying to hold that in position with welded on brackets will put extreme stress at relatively small areas. Unless your prepared to strengthen the whole tank to take these I think it would be a lot of work and self defeating. The straps reinforce the tank and act as flexible mounting to take the vibration when driving as they and the filler cap should be mounted with flexible joints. Modern production tanks are now generally plastic and have strengthening incorporated, the older ones where presses steel and welded together in mostly 2 sections where the joint formed a strengthening band of it's own and was used to secure the tank in position. Make fancy straps if want to make statement but steer clear of welded brackets1
  14. As AndyW says the turbo plumbing looks unusual. I know my set up is Ford and probably different thinking but mine has a 6mm feed directly from the water pump and then feeds back to the header tank again 6mm. 1. Isn't it best for the turbo to get full cooling supply always when engine running as heat can build very quickly even before engine has warmed ideally by-passing the thermostat. 2. In any fluid flow situations it is most times better to have larger or same size pipe on the out flow side rather than the supply to aid efficiency otherwise there can be a pressure build up. These on their own won't be the whole reason for heat build up but if there is an air lock situation the turbo may not be getting proper cooling.
  15. MrToad

    Misfire

    I know my engine is old school petrol injection but my understanding of engine control is knowing parameters of how it is operating. The more information the controls get for spark and fuel supply the better it will run under the many various loads the engine suffers. Obviously with later engines the controls have been transferred to electric rather than vacuum and that was my main query. My application has knackered a new set of injectors due to over pressure of the fuel regulator, in this case reaching over 10 bar which should not have happened with the max pressure of the regulator set at 3.5 bar. However the vacuum connection reduces a properly working regulator down from the maximum to 1 bar or lower when vacuum at maximum during low load/tick over. Also I had the reverse of your malady happening as fuel was feeding back through vacuum pipe making tick over massively over rich and fast running strange. Just trying to help!
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