geordie40

I have a newer rev counter and I only have a 12V from ignition Neg and a signal connection to the Neg side of coil

Actually looking into it a bit more the prices I found elsewhere didn't include the wheel boxes but there's a couple of 2nd hand complete units on eBay for 1/2 price. Bit reluctant to spend to much as car doesn't really go out in rain so only need for emergency and MOT. But it's added to the list as well as the split fuel filler hose I found when filling up this morning, £10 in car £10 on the forecourt

Hi Dean What degree sweep did you use , my driver side snapped completely today on run out, luckily only had a small shower so managed ok. Where did you get it as CBS seem a little expensive

I watched the ones for the Super Spec build and although he talks about Health and Safety he rarely follows his own advice

Ive been using this since i got the car and my roof looks fine but mine does spend a lot of time stretched out on the car. Leaving it in the hot sun will make it nice and supple.

That's what I used Dean and it was ok but I had left my hood draped over the bar and the clear plastic windows were touching it during the hot weather so when I removed the hood it took paint with it May try car paint next with a clear varnish on top

Yeah I've thought about that as well

Hmm so painting not such a good idea, it was already painted when I bought it so I've just been patching it up. I do like the black though. Decision's decision's

Hi all What do you use to paint the roll bar I have tried various metal paints with proper stainless steel primer but if I let the vinyl roof or windows touch it during hot sunny weather when I remove roof it peels the paint with it. When roof is fitted properly with the frame supporting it there's no problem as frame is powder coated but I can't do that for the roll bar.

Are these for the same wheels as on SuperSpec? If so I got these and sprayed them black or if you want some of the SuperSpec ones I have a set https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143285748580

Thx duck, was going to get a inline thermostat before fitting cooler

Oh yeah that as well but Protechs

Replace Rover T series Engine and associated ECU with something more "tuneable" and better parts availability

Hi I have picked up a few Mocal oil cooler parts 2nd hand as looking to relocate the oil filter and maybe add a cooler, but the sandwich plate I have looks huge!! Are all the Mocal "SP1" type plates the same size (body wise not threads). The one I have measures approx 94mm diameter, I cant find any dimensions on their website.

Mine is wood but i covered it thin foam and then leather

Cheers for this Paul, I did watch and read a few articles about back pressure and scavenging and as you say it's quite complex and ideally you have a exhaust built and tuned to your engine. In the end I went for a 2 1/4 inch pipe for my 2L Rover T Series engine, it seems ok but it's blowing slightly as only clamped atm with no exhaust paste, I will eventually get bits welded but want to make cat removable.

Well it's all fitted and looks quite smart, took it for a run today as eventually got Lambda sensor working ( see other post for that storey!!) Sound seems a bit deeper tone withe the larger bore, as for performance it's to soon to tell. Doesn't take long for discoloration to occur

Ordered one tonight, genuine Bosch one

Thanks Al & Andy I have put old sensor back in and hey presto, luckily I left just enough wire on the old one to use the good ole choc block connector. A friend who has a garage that was a Rover one said they are fussy about what Lambda sensor you use and universal ones are a bit hit and miss, so its off to fleabay for a genuine one. Only taken me all weekend but live and learn

Added to the list!!

Hi This is mainly for those with a Super spec but all input welcome. Just finished fitting my new exhaust and decided to look at the ECU readings (Rover Mems ECU) and car starts & runs fine but when I look at the errors its showing a Lambda signal error after a few minutes. I have tried the new one I bought and the original from old exhaust but no change , so I checked wiring back to ecu and all meters fine, next step was to check Lambda itself so with help of Youtube found how to test and when not running it sits at a few mV and when I start it jumps to around 40mV and drops when engine stops so the sensor is reading something Could a leak in one of my new exhaust joints cause this, it doesnt sound like its blowing

Thanks to Mike for his suggestion of using an 18" blade and cutting it, worked a bloody treat especially as blades have slots in the metal frame so easy to adjust

Yes plz

That's another idea (Plan D!!)