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Posts posted by NickandNeil
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It looks like I need the fitting you guys have attached at the rear that you fit the hose to. Is this a GBS/ Robin Hood part?
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My Exmo seems to be running hot. I see you can get different temprature themostat switches for the electric fan. What temprature is everyone using?
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I have obtained from a club member an unused origional Robin Hood flush fitting petrol cap.
I can see how you would fit it to the body of the car, what concerns me is how do you attach the hose to the rear inside the vehicle. Robin Hood sorced its cap from a motor cycle manufacturer. I can see how it would work on a perol tank as it sits on top and does not need a hose at the rear.
I am probably missing something here, but if any owners with this cap could post pictures of the rear where the hose should fit, it would clear so muddy waters in my brain.
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THANK GUYS,think I have got it now.
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I was told you did not need a seperate switch on the dashboard if you use the handbrake lever as the switch?
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Trying to wire up the brake fluid level dash light in series with the handbrake for the IVA.
I have been told it is acceptable to wire them in series and it works fine when the level in the hydralic resevour falls because the light comes on. But by doing this there is no warning light for the handbrake if it is left on when the resevour is full.
Is it a requirement to have a warning light for the handbrake?
I f there isn't I am quite happy with the setup I have. or do i simply wire in a dash switch that I have to press to test the fluid level?
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Thanks Martin, have ordered the sender from Burton Power.
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That is correct Mark. It is exacly the one you have pictured. They appear to be colour coded. As yet I have not found a black one. There are plenty on the webb, but I am unsure what colour to buy. I do have an hydraulic guage. So this is a back up, I think you need a warning light for the IVA. The engine is a standard 1993 Pinto form 1984.
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I need to replace the electrical oil pressure switch on a 1993cc Ford sierra, 1984.
Because the donor car was scrapped I cannot order parts by the registration. So when I google the switch for my car - it gives you a choice of three different colours. Red Blue or white. The existing switch colour is black.
Anyone any idea what colour I should use?
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Thanks Jordie
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Thanks again. The motorcraft module is already wired in tothe circui. I thought you were saying i needed to add another wire to it.
I will check the brake light wiring, but it did not do it until I changed the wiring on the coil from negative feed to the tach to posative feed.
In that case what would cause the needle to bounce violently. I think the tacho has been stored for years, could it simply be no good, or do you have to stabalize the voltage feed in some way?
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I have got the needle to move now, but it is irratic and bounces uo and down.
I did this as you said by linking 1 and three, and 2 and three, You said the coil should go to the electronic module, but as there babout eight wires i m not sure which wire to attqch it to.
Will that cause the needle to bounce? And werdly when i short out the two feeds that brake lights come on ?????
I have attached the wiring diagram.
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Thanks for that Red Trev, I will try that tomorrow. I have not been wiring to the + terminal on the coil.
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Here is another question. What do you men by RVI? Also I have told the eureka wire might need tp b removed I have no idea what a ureka wire is.?
And we have not got the old points system on but the later one with a module about 4" x 3".
Does that make a difference?
By the way for those that have been following our IVA build thread we have put in for it. They said they will start the tests fron the 22 June, and to expect at least a three mount wait for ours. So there is another summer gone. Totally gutted.
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I have a pinto engined Exmo. I am trying to wire up an old style cortina rev counter on a sierra loom. I know this topic has come up before and after reading the comments several times I seem to have more questions than answers. The comments on the previous forum mentioned 1 terminal being a switched feed, and the other a constant feed. What is the difference?
When I wire up the tacho it either cuts out the engine or does nothing at all. Trying different permitations with the wiring sometime I can get the engine to fire and the tacho needle move, ony to have it to, again cut the engine out imeadiately..
Is there a difference in voltage with the switched feed over the constant feed?
Could there be a cable in the loom with a resistance in to reduce the voltage?
Also the coil has been replace with a modern one as the old one was obsolete (see pic) It is 12 a volt one.
I have attached a picture of the tach, front and rear. Could someone advise me which connection is which/ I am pulling my hair out here.
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Oh well, I thought that would be to good to be true.
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After two years of renovating an unregistered Exmo I have finally requested an IVA test.
My doner car was a Ford Sierra 1984. Will it be elligable for road tax exemption in 2024? If so, Does it make a difference whether it is an age related reg or a Q plate?
They asked on the IVA form when the car was compleated, so will it be registered 2020, and does that make a difference to the road tax exemption?
Neil
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On 5/13/2020 at 11:36 AM, phaeton said:
if it's showing HOT with both sensors are you sure the gauge is good & not faulty? You can test the sensors if you have a multimeter
Ok will try that
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The engine is a Ford Pinto 1993cc from 1984
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I have a water temerature guage that i think came off a Ford Cortina. I have purchased two different senders but both read full all the while. Is there any way of working out what the correct sender would be?
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I have checked the IVA regs and can see no metion of a requrement to have sun visors or front fog lights. Am I mistaken?
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Can the IVA application be done over the webb, or does it have to be done by post?
Vin stamp
in IVA
Posted
I have obtained my Vin Number from the DVLA. I asked my local garage to stamp it on my Exmo chassis, they said they would have to hammer the stainless steel so hard it would dent the chassis.
How else would you write it on the chassis? Etching? Lazer?
What is aceptable?
And where on the chassis?.