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Hawaii Steve

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Everything posted by Hawaii Steve

  1. Jim has it right, check everything after that much time. I had the same thing happen on my Jag and it turned out to be the rubber hose connecting the rear hard pipes. Turns out it had swelled internally and was acting as a check valve. Steve
  2. I don't believe there's anything you can put on it. You must sand down to bare metal and then hit it with epoxy primer. Everyone I know who has pained over any rust has lived to regret it. Good luck! Steve
  3. Yes, assuming you don't have a fancy electronic ignition system like a MSD; you could start the engine and then run a jumper between the + terminal on the battery to the + terminal on the coil. That should bypass the ignition switch and let you know if its defective. Steve And if the engine can't fire at all, you can still run the jumper and then use the key to get it to crank. If it still doesn't fire there's something amiss in the electrical system. If the firing order has been messed up, and the electrical system is working at all, the engine will at least backfire. So if your not getting anything firing at all and you've run a jumper, I would start looking for a bad wire.
  4. Before jumping out of the window, you might want to bypass the ignition switch to see if it has anything to do with your problem. I’ve seen funny things happen when they go bad. Steve
  5. I have no idea how many miles my engine has on it. The new spedo only shows 220 . I did change the oil to 20/50 today and was very carful not to overfill. Definitely less smoke but still goes weird when I hook the crankcase vent to the vacuum connection. I'll be legal for driving early next week and will take it out for a 30 minute cruise to see what happens. So far I've only been driving it around the neighborhood in short bursts to make sure none of my police friends catch me and give me a hard time. As long as its not too bad i'll run it for a year or so before I jump into the engine again and find the root cause. (I have lots of other cars to work on ) Steve
  6. My car has SpeedHut gauges that use GPS for speed. Its a 1” x 1” magnetic based receiver which is directly wired to the gauge. You can mount it anywhere on the hood or front cowling and it works fine. (Takes about 30 seconds to find the Satelite when you first turn it on) I also have had mixed results from China but have found they do make things good if there’s an issue. Only advise I would have is pay through PayPal so if there is an issue you have the big guns supporting you!!! Steve
  7. Did a good installation for the crankcase vent piped to the intake manifold today and let the engine warm up and then I tried racing the engine. What I found was smoke coming from the exhaust, 10 times more than what was coming from my oil catch can vent when I had it piped up normally. So I put it back to the way it was and went out and bought 20/50 oil. I will also mix in a quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer which does a pretty good job of making older engines a little tighter. I have changed valve stem seals before using the rope in the cylinder trick and will try that next if I decide the 20/50 oil is not taking care of me. I put a new head gasket into the car last week along with all new timing gears, belt, water pump...... I see no oil in the antifreeze and no water in my oil so I’m pretty sure that’s all good. Will report back after the oil change. Thanks all for the help! Steve
  8. All, thanks for the tips. cb750, Don't you have "auto-correct", it gets me all the time!!! I believe the white smoke is coming from leaky valve stem seals, Its not really too bad, at idle it just looks like a white mist floating up from the breather. Not bad enough yet to change the seals but bad enough to create an oil smell. I tried your fix but it turns out my can breather has less pressure drop than a tube so that really did not work for me. Longboarder, I didn't have all the right fittings but was able to hook up the crankcase breather on a temp basis (using my brake assist tubing) to the intake manifold and it immediately made a difference. I could pull the dipstick and instead of having oil mist flying out, I could feel the vacuum. Will get the right fittings and do a permanent installation tomorrow and give it a real try. Blue, I'm running non synthetic 10W40 right now. The engine ran fine with the crankcase breather hooked up so I don't even think I'll need to lean it out. Steve
  9. I do have the outlet breather. Your fix is elegant and easy. Will give it a try tomorrow!! Steve
  10. Have my Pinto 2.0 running like a top and now I'm trying to fix some of the external issues. Been reading lots of posts on the forum and see that many of the Pinto 2.0's smoke from the valve cover and leak some oil from the dipstick. Mine does both! (the white smoke is kind of cool but I could do without the smell!) My engine does not have a PCV: there is just a hose that goes from the PCV connection on the crankcase to the ground. I already installed an oil catch can and connected both the crankcase breather and the valve cover breather to it. So now I have just a few drops of oil coming from the top of the dipstick and a nice plume of white smoke coming from the vent filter on the oil catch can. All that said I'm thinking about turning my catch can into PCV vacuum can by using the vent connection on the top of the can as a vacuum connection to the upstream side of the intake manual with a new PCV valve. I'm suspecting the smoke will then just burn up in the engine and with a little negative pressure on the crankcase it may help the oil drip situation from the dipstick. I have not seen on the forum that anyone has tried this? Anyone know of any reason not to give it a shot? Thanks!!! Steve
  11. Funny!!! It is a Robin Hood built in 1983 with a Pinto 2.0 crate engine, Sierra 5 speed and Sierra diff. Looks like all of the suspension is from a Sierra MK1. It was brought here from Atlanta Georgia USA by the previous owner about 2 years ago. (It was an internet purchase). He spent a lot of money on it but could never get it right so decided to unload it at what I thought was a very decent price. I have lots of toy cars and always wanted a 7 so I jumped at the opportunity and have been whipping it into shape for the last month or so. Once I get it legal in about a week, it should be a perfect car for sunny days on the island. Steve
  12. Great info! the head and belt go back on tomorrow so I will do what the manual says! Thanks Steve
  13. I Hawaii we have little elves called Menahune who live in the mountains. Their sole purpose in life is to sneak down in the middle of the night and make mischief like flat tires, dead batteries and issues like you have with your car. I'll bet your equivalent of the Menahune had something to do with it!!! Not sure of your electrical set up but I had a very similar issue on one of my older cars and it turned out to be a bad ballast resistor that was in line between the ignition switch and the coil. Steve
  14. hth, thanks!! I removed the tensioner this morning and it came off without any surprises. I have also read on the net that your 90 degree process is the way to go. Steve
  15. Rob, thanks!!!!!! I ordered a used Sierra manual off of ebay last week and I’m waiting for it to arrive. Must be on the slow boat:-) Steve
  16. My box of goodies just showed up from Burton's (amazing quick) and I'm ready to start putting things back together. When I removed the timing belt I just loosed up the old tensioner to avoid having to deal with the spring but now that I have a new tensioner It's time to pull the old one off. I'm always leery of things with thick springs. Are there any tricks to replacing the timing belt tensioner? I searched the forum and the internet but can't find anything specific for the Pinto 2.0 engine when it comes to that spring. Thanks Steve
  17. Hopefully this has not gone twice. Its off!!!!!! I used a combination of everyone's suggestions and had it off very quickly. Before I left on Sunday I flooded the gear and key with penetrating spray (PB Blaster) and then let it sit. This morning I used my large flat punch and hammer to hit it from behind while rotating the shaft. After about 3 rotations I saw a little movement so I then used a new gear puller I found on Amazon to finish the job. All told took about 30 minutes. Now all I need is for the new parts to show up from Burton :-) Thanks all for the help! (I have a pic of the puller but can't figure out how to attach it in a reply?) Steve
  18. Hawaii Steve

    Fuel Drain

    I’d probably try running the engine and then shutting it down and pinching the fuel hose with some vice gripps just before the carb. Let it sit for a day and then see if you have the problem. If you do it confirms a carb leak issue. Steve
  19. Interesting as I have always thought that a race cam would lead to higher pressures and a normal standard cam would create a pressure that is basically the compression ration X 14.7. It must mean a standard pinto cam has a significant amount of valve overlap. Steve
  20. Thanks all for the tips. I did soak it pretty heavy with penetrating oil before I left on a short trip. I’ll be back on the gear this coming Friday to try all of the suggestions!!! Its encouraging to know that all of you eventually got the gear off!!!!!!! Steve
  21. The timing gear on my Pinto 2.0 is in poor shape so I need to replace it. Built this puller by grinding my old headbolts and the brace from another puller I have. It loaded it up very tight but nothing moved. I then put a propane torch on the gear to see if heat would help and still nothing moved. Even tried a few good hammer hits and then one of the bolts broke. Is there a trick on getting this gear off or do I just need to make some stronger tangs?? Thanks in advance! Steve
  22. Thanks all for the tips. I did pull the head today (the easiest head I’ve ever pulled). Head gasket does look like there was a small leak between 3 and 4 but it was not a blow out like I’m use to seeing. Overall the head looks good and straight but I’ve ordered a guaranteed .001 straight edge to confirm the head and block. My timing belt has a small rip in it and the crank pulley has about a 1” x .5” chip on the flange so it needs to be replaced. The crank timing cog looks like someone put a wrench on it and the flange washer is not straight so they also need to be replaced. (Not sure how that cog comes off yet however). So now I’m ordering lots of parts to put things back right. Once they all show up (it takes time when you live in Hawaii), i believe I will have it running again in a few hours. Andy, I suspect you must have a performance cam and a shaved head to get readings in the 160’s. Theoretically my standard 9.2 compression ration should be about 135 in a perfect world. I did the compression test dry with only the plugs removed, nothing else. Hopefully with a new head gasket and valve adjustment I will be between 115 and 120 on all cylinders which would suit me fine. (I have a go-fast car so the 7 is just for tooling around the island) Steve
  23. Sorry, should have added that my car has a 1983 Pinto 2.0 crate engine. Steve
  24. Engine runs fine but what looks like steam is coming from my valve cover, also i have brown coolant with bubbles so I'm pretty sure the head gasket is gone. Did a compression test and it read 110--110--105--120. Good news is there is no coolant in the oil as far as I can tell. (have not drained it yet however). So the question is since i'm pulling the head, what else should I do besides the gasket, timing belt, and water pump? Thanks in advance!!! Steve
  25. Thanks all for the help. Ill remove the shifter and try reaching in there tomorrow. If that does not work Ill go the hole route. Just for fun I attached a shot from my workshop. Its in a agricultural are on the windward side of Oahu. The building across the street is a plant nursery and the mountains about a half mile away are the Koolaus. Their pretty vertical (maybe 2000 high in my area). Steve
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