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JabawokJayUK

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About JabawokJayUK

  • Rank
    Builder

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  • Car type
    Robin Hood 2B+
  • Full name
    Jay Abbott

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  • Location
    Peterborough

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  • E-mail
    jay@jabawoki.com

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  1. All very useful input folks, appreciated. I am of course no further on with my dilemma and probably now have a few more options to consider
  2. Ok, useful advice. The real issue here is I want 200+bhp and I don't want to spend the world getting there as there are diminishing returns for a 2B, and while I love it, eventually I will change it for something much lighter / faster I can build from the ground up myself. As such I am happy to bin off all the engines / ITBs I have for a better / cheaper solution, should that present itself. So far the Duratec 2000 is getting a lot of love for a crate engine that does the 200 job without much effort.
  3. Yeah I totally get that but I am not an expert on Ford engines so I really dont know whats possible in their range and therefore what the best route to go. The shear volume of variants all either called zetec or duratec is bad enough I have no issue with throwing some money at a decent engine that's 200bhp base tune on ITB's knowing that in the future I could unlock more power if desired, with head work, cams or forced induction. So all things being equal, whats the best engine (engine number / designation please) in the ford range that wont be a dick to bolt up to a type 9, fits in the bay and gives 200bhp on ITB's out the box?
  4. Thanks for that, yes, I am aware of that and have already spoken to Sean at MSTuning who originally set up the Sigma for the previous owner. My main concern is I dont want to end up 5K into an engine that I could have got to the same number with for 3K if you get my drift! I love the character of the Sigma, but with the standard type 9 gear ratios its left wanting, hence the simple SE to S swap originally planned. Bit more power options for not too much money, leaving some potential to swap the gear ratios in the box. I'm not looking for a track toy as its simply the wrong platform for that, but as a sunday screamer at around 140bhp its just the wrong side of a comfortable overtake for my liking! (My daily is a heavily modified alfa saloon diesel that makes 650 ft/lbs at the front wheels, but weighs in at 1800kg so I am used to a lot more pull on an overtake ) Sorry to clarify @brumster but do you mean the 2.0l black top zetec specifically? as many ford engines are classified as zetec including the sigma (Zetec S & SE variants). I see most people going the black top route but don't know much about it. Like I said, this is a bit of a dilemma and I'm not massively invested into anything at this point as the Zetec SE came with the car, I picked up the Zetec S for £120, and so far have found 2 sets of bike ITB's cheap(ish) so could easily make 2 viable engines to sell from what I have sat in the garage, in order to fund a different engine build such as the back top route? Anyone got any rough expected figures for a standard black top 2.0l with 45mm bike ITBS on?
  5. I'm after some advice..... I have a 2B whcih is running a Ford Zetec SE 1600 (Sigma) engine on a Megasquirt MS2 Extra Engine Management System. It has some modified delorto carbs (they are cut in half) acting as ITB's (sort of). It runs ok, and has apparently around 144bhp. Being a Zetec SE, the exhaust exit is on the Off-Side of the car making sourcing a 4-2-1 Manifold to replace the puny 4-1 that is in place difficult, and likely needing a custom fabrication job. So here is the dilemma! Recently I picked up a Zetec S (1700 Puma Engine) for a small amount of money. Its the same bolt pattern, orientation and footprint, but has better internals than the SE, eg Steel crank and rods etc. The original plan was to strip this engine, put some hot cams in it, add some bike ITB's, get some head work done (flow/ported, lifters, springs), and then drop it in as a straight swap with a new beefy 4-2-1 exhaust. The target being around 200bhp. Should I go this route, I can expect to pay £550 for cams, maybe another 200-300 on head work + the cost of a custom exhaust (I already have the ITB's), so maybe 2K all in. However, along the way I picked up a set of GSXR ITB's on an ST170 manifold ready to bolt straight on an ST170 duratec engine (I also have a set of ZXR12 ITB's that are bigger but that would need a manifold, which I intend to design and 3dprint in Carbon reinforced Nylon). So the thing is, given the duratec ST170 engine is the opposite orientation to the S & SE but the same orientation as the Zetec E (Blacktop), eg, "Exhaust on Nearside", there are far more 4-2-1 manifolds available off the shelf (and hopefully second hand) mitigating a potentially expensive custom fab job. Also, being a 2litre engine, with the ITB's and ECU I already have, I am pretty sure 200bhp is achievable without touching the head or opening the engine. Add to that the fact that a decent s/h engine can be had for 300-400 and I could potentially hit the 200bhp target for about 1K, but that excludes any subsequent conversion work I have to do on the gearbox hookup, engine mounts and bodywork. I already plan to strip the car back to the chassis this winter, and therefore the engine is coming out regardless so while the S is an easier job, fitting something different is not a deal breaker. Thoughts, opinions, advice all welcome!
  6. I'll grab some pics later to show what I mean. The shock travel I know how to resolve. I just need to cut back the bottom of the roll bar in the arch a couple of inches and same with the adapters that GBS Supply. They use a longer shock on the rear which I personally think is a mistake. I'll put pics up of the ground clearance and gearbox issues as well.
  7. My main issue with the chassis I have is that the engine, gearbox and diff all seem about 2" too low. I have a sump 3" below the floor pan level, a gearbox that is 3" below the tunnel top and the rear wheels, with the new style GAZ coilover conversion from GBS sit about 6" off the arches with the shocks having 1" of piston travel. So the big part of the rebuild is literally moving the whole drivetrain from engine back, up about 2-3". Given that will mitigate pretty much all of the previous fitment of parts, does that change your statement at all? I foresee a lot of plug welding to fill holes and then redrilling new mount points using the current chassis. Is there not an improved 2b chassis? what about the stainless one? was it a better chassis? lighter? stronger? weaker? Appreciate the advice
  8. So I plan on doing a full not and bolt rebuild of the RH2B this winter and while I could take the current chassis back to bare metal and paint it, what other options exist? Are new chassis better / reasonably priced? Should I go for a stainless steel chassis? Literally no idea what the best option is! Advice greatly appreciated!
  9. Thanks Derek. So the best option is to cut through from below? I take it I am going to compromise the floor mount in some way and as such will need to bolt / secure it better? I see the tunnel top bolts through the floor either side of the cockpit as I have already used these bolts to add some side to side structural reinforcement (25mm angle iron). Are these the only points that secure the floor in the centre or is it welded to the bottom of the chassis members where the tunnel bottom is? What I am trying to understand before I take a grinder to the area is the compromise to the structure of the floor and what options may exist to regain that structural integrity once the tunnel bottom has been cut out. I am happy to cut and make some access panels to replace the cut away floor under the car afterwards, but that will not add much in the way of structural support. Thoughts?
  10. I have a 2B, its been carpeted inside so I know I am going to have to cut some of that out, but how does the tunnel cover bolt in and is that the best way to get to the prop and gearbox mounts? I have developed some wobble / movement (circa 1" of up/down travel) on the gearstick so I think a rubber mount has failed on the back end of the box. Pictures appreciated!
  11. I have the 1600 version already in the car, it's a great engine. But a 1.7 came.up for 120 quid so I grabbed it. Mainly so I could.build the new.engine out of the car and easily swap it in when it's ready. Plan is for race cams, polished/ported head, arp bolts etc on a.standard bottom.end, so should be 1000-2000 quid depending on how much I can get done myself.. mated to the 38mm bike throttle.bodies I picked up for 200 quid and running on the MS2Extra ECU already installed it should be good for around 200bhp which will be about right for the car.
  12. The engine installed in the car is a Sigma 1600 (Zetec SE) so the 1.7 is bolt for bolt the same (certainly looking at them they are). I know the 2.0 is different which is why I didn't go this route, and I have also heard great things about the 1.7's with sorted heads and high lift cams, which is the plan for that engine. I also have a better set of ITB's (GSXR750 38mm ones) whcih will improve things over what is in there.
  13. Oh yes, I bought a less than perfect one as building / breaking / modding is just as fun for me as driving!
  14. Hi fellow Hoodies? if that is indeed the correct terminology! So I bought a RH2b+ in Feb for my birthday for that needed some work. Since then I have been getting her ready for the summer, sorting a few issues that were show stoppers for me and generally getting the car back to a "fun" state. I have been (and will continue to) tracking my progress in a build diary on my blog. So far this consists of: Lotus Super 7 - A New Journey begins! RH2B – Intake Fix RH2B – Exhaust Fix RH2B – Basic Tune & Lambda RH2B – Steering Wheel Upgrade RH2B – Suspension RH2B – Steering Fix RH2B – New Seats RH2B – Steering Column RH2B – Bonnet Fix RH2B – Cubby Project RH2B – Brakes! This was just the list of jobs to sort before summer, and I only just made it too! Now the introduction part is over, I would like to get some advice and thoughts on my plans. As its stands there are some fundamental issues with the cars build I just don't like. Firstly the engine sits very low in the bay, so low that the sump is a good 3" below the floor. The original builder has added a very hefty sump guard that has saved the engine more than once, but the net effect of this is that the car sits higher than I would like while achieving far less ground clearance than I want. Also, the gearbox sits quite far below the tunnel top and with the converted rear end on Gaz shocks now I have literally got them on the lowest height possible to the effect of barley any piston travel. Overall my plan is to strip it all back to the chassis, pull out all the wiring (its had an ECU/Engine upgrade along the way so most of the stock wiring and dash is surplus and can be minimised / simplified), lift the engine, gearbox, diff etc (I have a new 1.7 Zetec S to go in to replace the 1.6 Zetec SE), and rebuild the suspension mount points. The front suspension is layed back like a chopper and it looks to me (I have not measured it yet) that its running way to much caster. Also the upper wishbones are mounted to high. On the rear end, the sierra sub frame cuts into the cab where the wishbones / diff mount to the centre point which reduces seat travel on the runners etc... All in all, I just want to fettle it a bit and get it right Removing the sierra setup entirely would be ideal and fabricating wishbones, but I think that's a step to far for me unless I can get some help! So, thoughts, ideas, advice, the number of a local mental health expert for my impending madness on this journey? all greatly received! Cheers Jay
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