phaeton

It's surprising how little resistance it needs to stop it turning, once had a column where 2 pieces of plastic had closed together, just them rubbing on each other stopped mine returning

Are you sure there is nothing binding, either in the column, in the rack or within the hubs?

Never heard of them asking for an engineers report, but when I have done it in the past I have had to get a garage to confirm that the engine is physically fitted in the vehiclle & confirm the capacity being claimed.

Is it already registered in Poland, it has Polish plates, can you not bring it in via Nova?

Thank You. TBH That was what I was expecting, I suspected there is no link between the DSA V5C system & the VOSA MOT system, so when presented for it's first MOT it then starts the clock ticking. Bit like if you present it for a MOT on the VIN number prior to IVA it doesn't then get the 36 months to first MOT, it has to be done after 12 months.

What was the first date of registration on the V5C?

Yes I know that, but this is the first MOT, it is currently not on the MOT database https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/ hence the question.

Kit is coming up to it's first MOT in June, anyone know if you can present 30 days early & maintain the anniversary date like you can with a normal MOT?

https://spiyda.com/fuel-gauge-wizard-mk3.html Might be a solution for you, it's a little while since I had anything to do with Chris's products but they were always first class along with brilliant support.

Once put a 1.6 engine in a 1.3 Escort can't remember the reason why but we put the 1.3 sump on the 1.6 engine, presumably for crossmember clearance but this was back in the 70's & remembering why I've come upstairs is hard enough let alone something from 40 odd years ago. But the first time we started it up it made a right racket all the big ends were hitting. Nothing at a 18 year old & a hammer couldn't fix though.

Just a question, why would you take the heater out? It provides extra coolant capacity along with always being useful to have warmth around your legs

I think for any boat anchor that's a good result, in fact any reading above about 10 at idle is good, back in the day as long as the wasn't on & there was plenty of oil in it that was all that mattered.

I'm with @Bob Tucker a big end is more of a a proper know, that almost sounds like an exhaust leak

Unfortunately you are at other end of the country, but it may help if you advised at what state it currently is, ideally photographs, I have in the past finished cars & put them through for other people, but no longer have a workshop to use & I have to do everything on my drive, which is okay for my own stuff but not somebody elses.

https://shop.mevkitcars.co.uk/collections/exocet-kits-and-parts/products/grp-seats This is the price new, these have never been used just stored, like to to get 1/2 price back from them £200

I have a pair of fibreglass seats available, I can get you measurements tomorrow but they are quite narrow, but up in North Notts, I don't seem to be able to add an image Alan.

I think the rule was, mechanical are more accurate but messy, electrical are easier but not as accurate, that may have now changed

I have a supercharger here to go on, was supposed to have been this winters project, but without a garage I'm getting to that age where I don't want to be working outside in the cold.

Yep it's coming to the right time of year, everybody is coming out of hibernation, the 2 litre boat anchor must be worth something to somebody I would have thought.

211BHP, that's not standard?

Only one that we had an issue with was in a Saxo trackcar, if you hit the kerbs too hard, which was good really as if you hit them too hard it would also take out the driveshaft Just position it somewhere within reach, under the dashboard for instance, although I've never had any others trip

Glad you are getting somewhere but I would strongly suggest you fit something like https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295996042349 in the event of an accident you don't want to pump to continue pumping petrol. But put it somewhere you can get to as they do occasionally need resetting

What you get on your V5C will depend on which chicken entered the details into the system & whether they knew what they were doing or just agency & guessed.

I suspect so, @DaveA76 you have 2 options really, either buy something like https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394433263160 & wire one into each side. Or do you know how many pins are on your flasher replay as you should be able to swap that out for a LED version.

Put a jump lead from the engine to the negative on the battery, does that change anything, if it does as IanS says earth leads, if it doesn't it's either the starter or the switch. To test the starter remove the small lead that is coming from the switch attach a new wire to it & go straight to live, does the starter spin now or click, click it's the starter, spin it's the switch