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SFX-Joe

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Everything posted by SFX-Joe

  1. Agreed, I think the sump is a bit on the short side. If the standard pump, oil spray bar and extra baffle that I am doing later today doesn't do it I will get an ACCUSUMP and have done with it.
  2. Couldn't agree more. Do you have the electronic valve fitted to your ignition or the manual ball valve?
  3. Ok now that's super cool.... Tho surely that will take even more to fill that too? Deffo an option for me to research!!! Just read about the elecrontic valve.... Very cool. So can fill the Accusump, then check oil level in sump, bring back to max. Boom, Done. This may be a good solution! not to mention it looks pretty snazzy! The Accusump is a reasonable price, however the switch to make it work... Less appealing.
  4. I am glad someone has the same thought process as me. Of course this doesn't answer why it does it now and didn't before. However, new standard oil pump and new spray bar going in today, will test that with the new baffles and let you guys know if I crack it.... If not, I will scream and kick and be in a foul mood for a time to come. Of course while ordering a old sump with pickup and modifying it myself to a slightly longer length... Last resort.
  5. I think it could be a mix of the two? Hypothetically lets sat the sump now holds 2L now vs 3L if it was original... Of course the oil level is shallower which could prompt air intake to the oil system via surging. My other thought is lets say the sump has 2L in when the engine is off then when started it sucks up a load of oil to fill the oil system and ultimately have some pumping around the cam cover.... How much does that leave down bellow? Say It takes 1L in the head and pipes when running that leave me only 1L down bellow, not much? Resulting in super low levels of oil down bellow? Does anyone here know what depth their sump is from the top lip to the lowest point? Mine is 12cm (120mm). The guy that made it could have easily gone 30mm deeper as the bell housing for the gearbox is at least 30 - 40mm bellow the sump level. Tom wondering if mine is almost too short??
  6. Please do, it would be great for peace of mind!
  7. Excuse my awful sketch but I hope this helps some people visualise the who oil level thing... Notice both have the same oil level, despite the sump being shorter or longer. The distance from the top of the oil to the crank should always remain the same, no matter what sump size you have. The only thing that will change is the amount of oil required to reach the max mark. The mark itself does NOT change.
  8. Agreed, that was my thought too. The fact a sump has been shortened or not should make no difference to the level at which the oil is required to sit. It will however require a different amount of oil to reach that mark... However I think part of my issue may be where its been shortened that the oil from the max mark only goes down about 30mm deep the to bottom of the sump, resulting in very little depth. So as soon as you get any surge under braking / cornering the pump sucks air.... With me?
  9. Yes I have done this. So I know that there is 30mm of oil in the bottom of the sump when the oil is on the MAX line on the stick. This doesn't seem much. Keep in mind that's measured when engine is off. Once its running their will be oil pumping around the system and in the rocker, I don't know how much this holds but im going to guess at least 1L?? This will drop the level in the sump considerably in the process? Agreed, the max height on the stick will remain the same no matter what sump you have otherwise you run the risk of piston slap and forcing oil up the rings causing yet more issues.Also as you say, frothing the oil up. I know you can run a bit more than max safely but that's beside the point. The first pic I posted shows a line which is where the max level would sit.
  10. I have these measurements which according to the pinned post here are correct levels? I haver a short tube measuring 24.5cm With a distance of 12.5cm from MAX mark to tube base
  11. If I do a full oil change with filter and so forth, I get just over 3 litres in it. I just did this test out of curiosity, this is the level when led flat, when in the car the engine is canted slightly forward - resulting in more oil needed to reach MAX mark...
  12. It has been made wider, behind the baffle is a box to add extra capacity... Image attached.
  13. Hydro test - So I wanted to see how much liquid it took to get to the line I drew on that matches the 'MAX' level on the dipstick.... It took 1.5 litres from empty to this bellow image.... Surely by the time the oil starts to pump and the rocker has some oil in it, say 1L or more.... Im left with next to nothing down bellow? Should the level be bellow the shallower part of the sump like it is? or should that also have liquid in it?
  14. I don't honestly know... Its the same one the car came to me with so is what I have been using as a gauge for 8 odd years. However correct me if I am wrong... Surely the sump requires the same 'level' of oil even though the oil quantity needed to reach this would be less due to short sump...? In my head the oil level is the same on short or standard sumps? same distance from con rods / crank as that's a fixed point....
  15. On an additional note... The RS2000 sump is 155mm deep at the deepest point... So around 35mm deeper at the lower end... Im tempted by a RS2000 sump and pickup.... tho the £300 + price tag is off-putting.... Also the sump would then be lower than gearbox housing.... Prone to damage from speed humps and so forth...?
  16. Hi people. Does anyone know what depth of oil you would hope for in a shortened sump? I have attached an image bellow showing with a pen mark how deep my oil would be if oil was on MAX mark on dipstick.... Seems a bit low to me yet its correct on the dipstick? I have checked dipstick length and bottom of tube to max line distance and all seems correct??
  17. That is my thought. I fitted the high pressure pump thinking it would help but maybe its actually now causing the problem. I have ordered a new standard oil pump and new spray bar to arrive tomorrow. So will get them fitted and go from there.
  18. I have used my camera probe and all seems ok. It did cross my mind that a wrong head gasket could block one of the holes, but all is fine. I will be dropping the sump shortly and taking a really close look with a torch from top to bottom and so forth. Somethings causing it! Will get a bottle brush too as suggested to ensure a clear and clean drain passage.
  19. In the S7 they are coated slightly forward. There is a drain hole at the front but the larger one is at the rear. However this is the same since she was build over 10 years ago with no issue? Also nothing I can do about the canting forward, just how it is. It did cross my mind to weld an elbow to the rocker and another to the sump with large bore 15 or 19mm pipe between them as an extra drain hole. However I don't see why I should need to do this when other people seem to be ok....
  20. I tried 20 - 50 oil. Same issue once it was hot. Higher pressure when cold by a few PSI but nothing to shout about. Yes gasket between pickup and pump. a little gasket sealer between pump and block. New drive and new locator dowel. I checked the pickup (because its modified) for air leaks when I took it out and all seemed perfect. Hand over the pickup and sucking / blowing the other end, no holes or leaks. Straight breather from block to catch tank. Straight breather from cam cover to catch tank. Both venting to atmosphere freely. Large bore pipe not piddly little ones. As stated before, the setup has been the same for my 8 years of ownership so surely it should have been ok to not cause a problem before? yet now it does this.
  21. Yes modified sump, but with extra box on the side to keep capacity as close to the original as possible. I have had the car 8 years, only recently has it started to do this so I doubt it can be the sump or oil level as its never been a problem before. The sump does also have a simple baffle in it to help with surging. I have tried over filling the sump a bit but same symptoms still.
  22. Done already. Fitted a 'TEE' and installed a new mechanical gauge along with new digital sensor. Both read much the same at all times.
  23. SFX-Joe

    oilpump

    No. There is one between the pickup and the pump but NOT the block and pump. I usually stick a small amount of gasket sealer on to ensure a nice air tight seal.
  24. Hi guys, I don't know if any of you may be able to help but here we go.... I have rebuilt my pinto 2.0l. New main bearings, and ground down crank, new oil pump, new spray bar, new water pump, new thermostat, bath blah. I had a problem before taking it apart of oil pressure dropping to 0 when braking up to lights or taking a sharp left turn... would pick back up to 15 odd psi in a few seconds once stopped or back straight. I have now rebuilt it... Still the exact same issue. I did change the oil pump for a high pressure one in the rebuild... I mean why not at the price tag they have... Now then here is the interesting bit... I run the car and it seems to fill the rocker cover with about an inch + of oil if not more. Surely this should be draining quicker than it is? My though process is... To much oil pumped to the rocker, not draining quick enough, therefor leaving low oil level in the sump. Brake or turn left and you surge the oil away from the pickup causing air to be sucked up and losing pressure.... However... nothing has changed in the engine so why would it start doing this all of a sudden? The only difference since rebuild to the system is high pressure pump and spray bar.... When driving normally and running hot she holds around 20psi oil pressure on tick over and more on higher revs. Any Ideas? Running 2.0l pinto - High pressure oil pump - 10 40 oil - new rod and crank bearings (correct size). New oil sensor (Also fitted mechanical gauge to check and its the same reading)
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