Leslie Walters

I did the same as Bob on my Haynes Roadster, it looks great when covered with the rubber matting that I used for the rest of the floor, also added a heel rest. (Personal preference I think). 

E Bay is an option for service parts plus water pump, timing and alternator belt etc.

Would love to come for the day or possibly both days to meet people, won't be camping however, Huntingdon is just 10 miles from ours.

Just looking for some info, does anyone out there insure their kit for the summer period, and who with?  ( Summer used loosely!)

Quote

 

Sorted, as suspected/suggested a bad earth, had to go all the way to the bulb holder itself though, simply soldered in a new earth cable. Thanks for the help chaps.

The right hand headlight on my Haynes is brighter than the left, it's difficult to tell bur it seems just the dip beam, the headlamp bulbs are the same and I swopped them over to make sure it wasn't anything silly like a faulty bulb. The wiring loom/fuse box/relays are from the Sierra donor car.0

The fan controller kits as suggested by IanS are readily available on Ebay and most come with a wiring diagram which is pretty simple to install and wire up. Would like to see the pictures of the fan/radiator installation, may possibly be able to make further suggestions to help.

Quote

I run a pinto with a standard carb, mine had the original donor equipment on which incorporates a valve system with a return pipe to the tank, I couldn't  see any reason for this and I know this system was run without a return pipe back in the day so I removed it all, run fine for 3000 miles since, the tank is simply vented through the cap although it is a little slow to fill it doesn't cause a major issue.

Like most things these days "GOOGLE" it you will find free PDF downloads that may well do the job.

Pretty much all the track rods I have come across are right hand thread (conventional) if there is any thread visible a visual check would confirm the thread direction.

Don't really understand why the readings are so different on the toe's, however I would suggest a setting of parallel to a small amount of toe in (toe in will help with steering stability) and front camber of 1 to 1.5 degrees negative, excessive toe out would cause inside edge tyre wear.

You also have to consider that adjusting cambers will affect the ride height and vice versa and will also affect toe's so they must all be checked in conjunction.

 If you want to keep it simple and cheap simply set up two bars of equal length on axle stands front and rear and string them with fishing line pulled tight at the hub centre height, centre them by measuring to the hub centres and measure to the front and rear of the wheel rim to determine the toe, doing it this way means the rear toe can be checked at the same time, hope this doesn't sound to complex it really is simple once you have done it.

My Haynes Roadster currently has 1.9" X 8" X 200lbs springs on the rear which are too soft, I am looking for a pair of coil overs 1.9" x 9" X 350lbs ( 8" long would be ok but looking where the spring platforms are 9" would be ideal.)

Never known 4 points to slip off, are the shoulder strap fixings at the recommended distance apart?

I am currently running the standard 28/32 Weber on my 1.6 Pinto, my question is  will the 32/36 Weber fit my standard inlet manifold?

I did mine last year, same discs as yours, (240mm vented) they came up really nicely with just a regular cutter and now measure 21.60mm, performed great for 1600 miles now.

Hi Lewis, my car is a Haynes Roadster, (Pinto engine) so different to yours however the rad mount looks similar, my car has a header tank but I am sure cooling would not be a problem without it (my electric fan never comes on) but a couple of points to consider, is the rad cap accessible with the bodywork fitted and in the case of my car I unbolt the header tank and raise it when refilling the system. (makes it very simple to bleed.)

I don't know this particular master cylinder but the fact that it has dual reservoirs does it have dual pistons? (one front and one rear) if it does then it is usual to bleed the front and rear together, simply because once you get rid of the air in either the front or rear then you will only get very limited pedal travel to bleed the air from the other end. Not a problem but you may need another pair of hands.

Apparently this cup washer is to prevent excessive movement in the gearbox mount, I had the same problem with my Haynes Roadster (ground clearance) so I removed it and replaced it with a standard spring and plain washer and it did not appear to have any detrimental effect, I believe there is a "heavy duty" replacement available which I suppose is just increased rigidity in the rubber.

Yea, the Ka cylinder is the one I will be using.

That's very local to me so would go provided work doesn't get in the way, would have to confirm nearer the time.

Would have to agree with Ian, mine are standard Sierra brakes and they stop fine, the only thing I will be doing to improve mine is to change the master cylinder for a smaller bore, this will reduce the pedal pressure but the main reason is to give the pedal a bit more feel, it's very solid and "wooden" with the current one.

Quote

When you say it behaved pretty badly at the top end does that relate to the top speed or top RPM?

Also how many MMs is "a few MMs off centre"?

Don't know if this helps but on my Haynes Roadster the gearbox will not come out with the engine in so I removed the engine mounts from the block as well as from the outboard end which allowed me to slide the engine forward on a jack under the sump with a wooden block to spread the weight the gearbox then came forward enough to come out, seems like a bit of a mess but it was actually quite simple and didn't take long, obviously it might be totally different on yours, hope this helps if in fact you do have to remove the gearbox.

Sounds pretty obvious but have you tried e-bay?