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Misternomer

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Posts posted by Misternomer

  1. Got it - airflow is king.  I actually think the position of the rad at the moment, aside from being held on by zip ties, is also screening the engine block from airflow - making it even harder to dump heat.

  2. How does this look at a solution.  Moving the water temperature sensor into a neat alloy housing and shortening the house.  Any thoughts on whether it would make sense to add an expansion tank?

    Screenshot_2020-10-27_at_11_53_20.thumb.png.65b153361bc8ba65ec9622db2ca31c5f.png

    I will also take the nose cone off and see if there is space to put the rad in the cone, but there is some obstruction due to the inboard shocks.

    IMG_1073.thumb.jpeg.b63b43ffab34182ef0c11eb44a425b6e.jpeg

  3. Actually I think the strange fabrication is a temp sender.  The electric fan is on a switch on the dash rather than thermostatically controlled.  It’s either on all the time, or off.

     

    Have just done some searching and found this temp sender adapter which should allow me to straight line the hose from thermostat housing to rad top.  vs. going via somewhere north of Birmingham as it does now.

     

     

     

    E4112D8B-F88B-435E-BA50-330F569D1C88.jpeg

  4. So I had a good look at the problem at the weekend and discovered the following:

     

     - That tiny fan is indeed wired up backwards and pushing against the airflow🤪  In other words  - it's doing f%^$ all, badly

     - There are gaps around the rad so large that I expected to find a Romanian clinging on for dear life.  Clearly no actual air is hitting the matrix.

    IMG_1067.thumb.jpeg.27f924f246226ac56a6444a35fb0ffa7.jpeg

     

     - Previous owner has fabbed their own thermostat housing (see pics) which is a little unorthodox😬, as well as having crazy pipework as pointed out already.  Why on earth wouldn't you just buy a housing?

    IMG_1063.thumb.jpeg.aa016f5e7d4cc55ba65bb263a54e04f6.jpeg

     - The thing is plumbed as it should be engine bottom - rad bottom - rad top - engine top.  The hose is brough round the front of the rad to make space for that crazy thermostat housing monstrosity.

     

    Questions - 

    1:  Any thoughts on how to seal the gaps

    2:  Any suggestions on a thermostat housing I can buy.

  5. Now that I like a lot Brumster.  That gives me a standard to work to  so you have a hermetically sealed nosecone rear to engine bay.  Can I see that you've actually used rubber trim at all the jointed surfaces?  Proper job

    Is there a reason you chose to pull the air rather than push?  Was clearance against the crank pulley an issue?  Am I right in thinking your fan is about 10"?

     

  6. 24 minutes ago, IanS said:

    Normally you would run the thermostat outlet into the top of the radiator to work with thermocycle of the coolant rather than against it.

     

    Thanks Ian.  This makes a lot of sense - I'll post some more detailed photos later when I get a chance  - so if I am understanding you correctly - the optimal flow would be 

    engine-bottom_to_rad-bottom_to_thermostat housing(top of rad)_to_engine top connection

    in other words the coolant is flowing up through the rad cores ensuring the air stays at the top of the rad and the coolant flow is sympathetic to the convection flow.

  7. 21 minutes ago, brumster said:

    Be good to see pics. In my experience with seeing cars that have overheating issues it is almost 90% of the time down to bad air flow design. Failure to control the consumption of air into the nosecone and THROUGH the radiator (by ensuring there are no lower-pressure routes around the radiator instead of through it), and likewise blocking the flow of air once it's gone through the radiator - blocking the back of the rad, or not giving the air any suitable low-pressure exit route out of the engine bay.

    It could still be bad rad, blocked channels, knackered 'stat or whatever, granted, but if I was generalising, I'd go with the above.... ;)

    do the pics you can see in the OP help at all?  I can confirm that it definitely IS overheating - stinks, steams and splutters out the cap!

  8. 20 minutes ago, theduck said:

    Also when it comes to buying a fan I can highly recommend airconco

    Thanks  - that's really useful.  The current fan only covers about a 3rd of the SA of the matrix.  I am worried about clearance against the crank pulley, but both Spal and Airconco look incredibly thin

  9. Quote

     - it has a twin core race rad with a top and bottom tank and a cap on top, so I don't think it strictly needs an expansion tank

     - at 6" the fan is only marginally bigger than a CPU fan.  I spoke to a pinto specialist at HPE performance in Maidstone and he recommended moving to a 12-14' Spal fan.  Said the eBay jobbies comminly only have ⅓ of the flow rate of a Spal

     - Yes the bonnet is louvred's

     - There is no heater

     - I will swap out the stat for one I know to be 82c low temp version

     

  10. HI everybody.  I am a new member and have just bought an 2000cc pinto S7 with my son and we are having some shakedown issuesadd with overheating.  The previous owner was a builder of BRM racecars and seems to have done a great job with the exception of cooling issue.  Basically we heat up to 90norm in minutes and starts to overheat after more than a few mins in traffic.  Even when running at 50mph on a cool day (14c ambient) - it never really shed the head and sits between 100-110c

     

    Shortly before selling, previous owner fitted a new twin core aluminium radiator, and a small electric fan on an isolated switch, which we always leave turned on.

    Hypothesis is as follows:

     - Looks like the electric fan (see photos ) is far too small.  It's only 6" diameter can't be much use.  How big should this be?

     - What happens if polarity is reversed and the fan isn't pulling air through (haven't checked this yet)

     - There is no expansion tank that I can find.  This surely must limit the thermal capacity of the coolant

     

    Installing a larger fan seems problematic as there is 1.25" clearance to the front of the crank pulley.  Any advice on fault-finding on a workable solution would be very much appreciated

     

    62498318874__95471A9E-0FA1-4556-B7CC-AFE02F21E752.jpeg.dfc1f9cdcd2ca4953d99ffb6871648ab.jpeg

     

    62498315828__E97C2631-32FB-460C-959E-1992E73A89BE.jpeg.ec3159c499d35c8e7927019111726566.jpeg

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