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Everything posted by robinj66

  1. That's interesting Ian - where did you hear that they can impose the penalty points for the original offence?
  2. To remove the shocks you just need to undo and withdraw the mounting bolts. the coil overs should then come out as one unit. Measuring for the new bushes is probably advisable (I always intended to machine some new ones on the lathe (out of nylon bar) if mine needed replacing) Not sure if you will need to remove the nose - mine was hinged so I didn't need to but on your car you might find access to the bottom mount is a bit awkward.
  3. My understanding is that you need to be careful using tape with sensors as they usually earth though the body (threads)
  4. 2.8 V6 Ford Cologne engine mated to a 5-speed Type 9 gearbox. Weber 38 DGMS (manual choke)
  5. I used to pop in for all sorts of things and they have always been great to deal with - even to the extent of making parts whilst you wait (and watch). Fabulous service
  6. When my 1995 S7 came into my possession the previous owner had removed (cut out!) the front cross member. Can't work out why. I ended up replacing it with some 5mm thick stainless angle which I bolted on and that appears to have done the trick. [i would add some photos but it's not happening for me atm and Photobucket have "improved " their B****y site again so i can't upload to there either! ]
  7. I agree with the above ref heat soak. However if you still want a replacement fan I would recommend one from a Ford 1.8 diesel (Eg Escort). I use one in my RV8 Cobra and it does fine. Think I kght have a spare one in the shed if you're interested. I also have a spare screw-in thermostatic switch but I'd have to check the temperature range.
  8. Always useful as a spare part, that's me
  9. robinj66


    I got my S7 through an SVA. It just requires thought and application of the manual. I had to strengthen the pedal box and the steering column to satisfy Mr VOSA I would also think about a heat shield to protect your servo/master cylinder from the headers. Likewise I would wrap the clutch cable in heat mat. You can do it
  10. Were you still using the same coil pack plugs? - see post #130
  11. Mark - it's very easy to do . have a look here http://nw.rhocar.org/supporting_the_steering_shaft.htm
  12. Look for markings on you the stalks - they will either start with 83, 87 or 90. 83 is the earlier pin configuration and 87/90 is the (same) later pin configuration. Purely from memory, the 83 stalks had the horn as a stalk function (it was on the steering wheel centre for the later stalks).
  13. The trouble with cars that have been stored for long periods is that lots of hidden bits seize or start to perish and these need to be factored into your price. Eg, tyres, brake seals (calipers & master cylinder), clutch, steering rack gaiters, rubber boots etc. It may also probably need a change of oil and brake fluid (plus any fuel that has been sat in the tank & pipes.
  14. Have you changed the plug to the coil pack? And checked the circuit feeding the plug?
  15. Sorry to hear you're still having problems. On the basis that it must be something common to both the Pinto & RV8 systems, I reread the whole thread again. I notice from your diagram @ post#56 (when you swopped the coil packs around and made the fault move from one to the other) that one of your plugs (labelled as "new plug") is also common to the fault. Could this be the source of your fault?
  16. It's a Sierra based S7. The reference to "tub" comes from the slang for a monocoque chassis. I got one of these through the SVA - it did require strengthening of the chassis in various areas (Eg additional plates for the seat and seatbelt mounts). I also had to strengthen the bulkhead area as it flexed on braking. It is possible to get it through the IVA as long as VOSA accept that the design is intrinsically sound (something I didn't have a problem with for SVA). You will need to pay attention to the IVA regs as this kit was supplied before the SVA but it's not insurmountable.
  17. Try HAGERTY http://www.hagertyinsurance.co.uk/?aff=uk_sm
  18. robinj66

    Brake Booster

    Phil - I found this which at the very least has a diagram of a brake servo internals which might help you to understand how they work http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Servo/Servo.htm
  19. robinj66

    Brake Booster

    Me too - I'm only just down the road. I would bleed the system as per above as a start. Not sure you can repair these servo units. Here's a replacement (NTDWM) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sierra-pedal-box-and-servo-kit-car-robin-hood-locost-/151108622765?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item232ec699ad
  20. That is incorrect. If damage is caused to property (or injury to anyone) then the obligation to stop and provide details applies. FAILURE TO STOP AFTER AN ACCIDENT It is an offence for a person being the driver of a mechanically propelled vehicle and owing to the presence of that vehicle on the road or other such public place an accident having occurred whereby damage or injury was caused did fail to stop and give his name and address and identification marks of the vehicle. Road Traffic Act 1988 s 170 (2) It also becomes obligatory for the offending party to report the matter to the police "as soon as reasonably practicable" and in any event within 24 hours
  21. robinj66

    Clutch Cable

    The two adjustment nuts stay the same side (one is there to lock the other). If you want a nut on the clutch side of the cable then introduce a split nut as per Busby's post.
  22. Glad to be of assistance (eating & drinking you out of house & home etc). Apologies for the very poor welding - who'd have thought a Robin would have made so much pigeon $h1t !!!
  23. That is a cracking diagram - very useful. Thanks SP
  24. I have a V6 gearbox spare (longer input shaft). Get in touch if you are interested.
  25. robinj66

    After The Iva

    The trouble is that each regional office seems to operate under its own set of rules
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