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robinj66

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Everything posted by robinj66

  1. Thanks Jim Mine's an S7 which has similar front suspension ( inboard coilovers ) but I definately have rubber inside but thinking about it I only assumed that the rubber went all the way through the tube. Any idea if I'm right?
  2. Presumably you drill the hole right through the rubber bush?
  3. Sorry to hijack this thread for a moment but can you elaborate on fitting the grease nipple on the front suspension. I've seen Jim's photo in an earlier thread but what's the fitting process - is it just drilling a hole & cutting a thread? What do you use as a grease nipple - can you use, Eg, a bleed nipple from a brake wheel cylinder?
  4. If the front coilovers are the same as the S7 then they are part number G451 AS200. the damper ubnits are still available from Spax @ £84.99 each. The only reason I know is because I've just contacted them about mine. I assume the AS200 part relates to spring rates (?). Does this mean my springs are 200lbs? Spax can be contacted at spax@spaxperformance.com
  5. Has anyone got a spare mounting bracket for an alternator - preferably from a V6 Cologne engine or otherwise from a Pinto. Lost mine somewhere. Thanks
  6. Tom Just looked at their site - you say you've got a 12 month warranty but the site says 6 months! You might want to check this before you make any decision as to whether to accept the box
  7. I don't know. I have asked Robin hood to provide me with the design weights for the stainless S7 (Sierra front subframe) but I wonder whether they will still have that information due to the changes of ownership and the time elapsed. If there are any S7 owners out there who have put their car through SVA, can they let me knw what they put on the SVA forms. Unfortunately this is another unknown. He bought the kit secondhand. Since the chassis are similar (SIII & S7) I took the measurement of the damper from his car and roughly checked it against mine (which currently has the standard Sierra springs & separate dampers fitted) - hence I obtained shockers to give me a nominal 13" length ( 10.5" - 16")
  8. I have an S7 with Sierra rear axle. I want to change the rear suspension to coilovers. best way i can see of doing this is as per my mate's S III. Hopefully there is a picture attached. I have some GAZ adjustable dampers with open length 16" and closed length 10.5". I need to buy some springs to fit. How long should the springs be and what sort of poundage should they be? Best I can tell from trawling through threads here & elsewhere is that a starting point should be around the open length of the dampers but 16" seems a bit long to me (and Rally Design don't list them for 1.9" diameter in heavier rated springs). Ref the rate of the springs, I am fitting a V6 Cologne engine which is heavier than the usual Pinto - will this affect the spring ratings on the rear? Does anyone have info on the design weights for the stainless S7? {I will need this info for the SVA in due course} I appreciate that tis is a subject that some will feel has been done to death but reading through numerous posts on RHOCAR & Locostbuilders has left me more confused than when I started
  9. How about you get 12 points worth for each vehicle you drive - if you get disqualified on one car you just use another
  10. I would be interested in answers to this as well
  11. if it's now surplus to requirements, why don't you fix it to your 2B. Once you get it mounted and pointing in the right direction, you don't need a screen anyway. just a thought
  12. Have a look here http://www.ratsport.com/
  13. After a very quick perusal I can't see that tis is legal at all! To claim the car as an original lotus he would have to be using the original chassis or possibly the bodywork. If you follow his example to its logical conclusion then any Robin hood, MK, Westfield etc could be said to a Lotus. What he appears to have done is to stamp a Lotus chassis number into a new chassis which is in fact something else (a Robin Hood). Think that amounts to car ringing! The only doubt I have is that if ,Eg, you rebody an Escort (complete new shell) do you put a new chassis/ID No. on the car or the original one? If it's the original one then you could claim this is ther same thing , although personally I think it's stretching things too far. PS the 2 above post confirm that this is a ringer - the new chassis is not identical to the original. therefore the car is misdescribed
  14. Try Leeds Tool & Gauge Co Ltd in Leeds (0113 571694). All i had to do was to tell them was the length of prop needed and that it was RV8 to Granada. Didn't need to supply any flanges or old props etc. £156 delivered but i did order via the kit manufacturer (Pilgrim). you might be able to get it cheaper if you contact them direct.
  15. For only 3 more ends, i would go to a local (small) garage or possibly a motor factors - they are often quite happy to do it for you in exchange for a "drink". Would certainly be cheaper than buying a"proper" tool. I was lucky enough to borrow my neighbours quality tool - he told me they were around £90+ at the last show he'd been to
  16. Keep on Running - hope my engine does
  17. Ive never heard of stainless castle nuts either but it's an interesting idea. I would call Namrick 01273 779864
  18. Real Steel are just down the road from you in Cowley (Packet Boat Lane) - i would take a trip down there and talk to them.(01895 440505) The higher Vitesse BHP is mainly due to using fuel injection over the SU/Strombergs that were fitted to the earlier SD1's. Most power gains are obtained through aftermarket cams and head work. The latter could include waisted and larger valves together with solid lifters and adjustable pushrods to allow a greater rev limit. Another option is to bore out and stroke the engine but that may ultimately involve changing front covers which means different cams, ignition systems and a whole host of other expensive parts. Really depends on how much money you want to throw at it. the basic 3.5 can give a nice lot of torque/power - use a standard 3.9 carb cam with the Edelbrock - try for a dual port manifold (eg Offenhauser) as opposed to a dual plane one. Decent exhaust headers will also help tremendously. However i am just an enthusiastic amateur - try www.v-8.org.uk for far more information (and frankly better advice than i can give ) Whatever you do, Good Luck
  19. If you're getting rid of it i might be interested - probably split it andput the innards into the tank
  20. Not sure if you're talking about separate clocks or "all in one". I used separates in my cobra and they work really well ( except probs with the speedo but that's down to my mounting of the sender). ETB have always been helpful on the phone re calibration etc and also sending a threaded adaptor when i changed engines.
  21. I've got one out of a 2.0 Estate (E reg) if that's any good to you. Can't remember offhand whether it has a tacho or not. Will have alook in the morning.
  22. S58 of the Highways Act states : "58. Special defence in action against a highway authority for damages for non-repair of highway (1) In an action against a highway authority in respect of damage resulting from their failure to maintain a highway maintainable at the public expense it is a defence (without prejudice to any other defence or the application of law relating to contributory negligence) to prove that the authority had taken such care as in all the circumstances was reasonably required to secure that the part of the highway to which the action relates was not dangerous to traffic. (2) For the purposes of a defence under subsection (1) above, the court shall in particular have regard to - (a) the character of the highway, and the traffic which was reasonably expected to use it; ( the standard of maintenance appropriate for a highway of that character and used by such traffic; © the state of repair in which a reasonable person would have expected to find the highway; (d) whether the highway authority knew, or could reasonably have been expected to know, that the condition of the part of the highway to which the action relates was likely to cause danger to users of the highway; (e) where the highway authority could not reasonably have been expected to repair that part of the highway before the cause of the action arose, what warning notices of its condition had been displayed; but for the purposes of such a defence it is not relevant to prove that the highway authority had arranged for a competent person to carry out or supervise the maintenance of the part of the highway to which the action relates unless it is also proved that the authority had given him proper instructions with regard to the maintenance of the highway and that he had carried out the instructions. (3) This section binds the Crown." It basically means that the local authority will rely on this section of the Statute (Act of Parliament) if you sue them for damages (your losses) as a result of their action/inaction which led to your loss (negligence). Basically it's a"get-out" clause to avoid paying you any money. Would be impossible to say whetther you could successfully take legal action against them without having much more detail. I would suggest taking legal advice - many solicitors will offer a free first appointment or try the local citizens Advice Bureau.
  23. Sorry Only took the engine loom ( and I need that). Rest went to the scrappy.
  24. Hi guys Apologies for not checking this thread earlier. PM's sent
  25. I agree with the above but if you do want vented discs, i would try a search on Ebay. I got a pair of new discs for about £15 plus delivery
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