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Everything posted by robinj66

  1. Hopefully this helps. My car is an S7. I have welded the bent tubes onto the bracket which fits over the "mushroom" in the front hub.
  2. These are what you need http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-90-110-ENGINE-MOUNTING-RUBBERS-2-/270715903091?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f07ecdc73
  3. I had a failure of the prop UJ's on my return from the first SVA. My prop was an extremely tight fit and I I had to repair in situ (S7 with a solid tunnel). I had to cut an inspection pabnel out. My UJ's were held in with circlips and I managed to find a replacement at Euro car Parts - not sure if they have them that far North but worth a try at Ajay's etc.
  4. robinj66


    You could try Powerspeed http://www.powerspeed.co.uk/ or Zeroe Exhausts http://www.zeroexhausts.co.uk/index.htm. Both are based in Ashford, Kent. I have personally used Powerspeed and can rate their work - excellent quality but not the cheapest. Others have used Zero and their work is also rated highly
  5. Try the Lexus V8 - seems to be a very popular cheaper option for some of the cobra boys
  6. (Assuming it's not cable-driven) I think you'll find the problem is the movement of the diff etc relative to the sender (if it's fixed to the chassis) under acceleration. The gap becomes too large and the speedo doesn't read the signal until the gap closes again. It could also be a wobbly bracket.
  7. I think you have found the cause of your "soggy" pedal - I had to install a framework to get my (later, Sierra based) S7 through an SVA - the tester said the whole mechanism was moving when the pedal was pressed (Will try and find pictures of my overkill solution later) There shouldn't be any problems if you make your servo horizontal (as long as the fluid reservoir still holds sufficient fluid) - I did this on my Cobra. You will however have to alter the length of the pushrod between the servo and the pedal.
  8. I think Car Builder Solutions were offering an electric demist motor.
  9. Afraid I'm not going to be able to make it - just been made aware it's my wedding anniversary
  10. TBH I don't think you'll gain very much by changing the Cortina calipers to Wilwoods (except unsprung weight). I did something similar on my Cobra (only it was Proncess 4 pot calipers not Wilwoods). It doesn't seem to have made much of a difference (except they do look better). Do you actually need better brakes?
  11. You might find that some of the spongey feeling is actually flexing when you press the brake pedal. This was a problem on my S7 (Sierra running gear and brakes) and I had to introduce a frame from angle-iron to stop it. [On your car this would go between the bulkhead and the sheet with the servo support legs attached]. Spongeyness could also be down to air in the system . If you want to check the action of the brakes withoput the servo then just disconnect the vacuum hose at one end. If you want to remove the servo permanently then you will need to plug the vacuum outlet.
  12. In addition to the tyre pressures, try and soften the shocks a bit.
  13. As peter said - check it first. You will probably find that it has an "additive package" that is more suited to older engines than more modern oil (esp zinc which helps lubrication of bearings).
  14. Forgot to mention that i used ETB's daisy wheel which fits between the diff and the propshaft. The bracket was fitted to the diff. Don't think mine was stainless but (from memory) it was approx 4mm plate. I went through several different designs (and if I'm honest, my first attempt was an absolute pig's ear) . On the S7 I have another electric speedo (not ETB) and i used magnets. By then I was trying out welding so i butchered and old ford bracket - see pics - and connected it to the diff (with magnets on the driveshafts)
  15. The ETB speedo in my Cobra did that for a while (up to 60-70 ish then down to zero). I changed the mounting bracket for the sensor and that seemed to cure it.
  16. Also we need some piccies of your car
  17. i have no servo in my S7 (standard sierra m/c and calipers/drums) - the first thing to note is that new pads etc will take a few miles to bed in. Also ensure the pads are correctly fitted ( don't ask how i know). Now it only needs alittle more effort than with a servo
  18. Simon I really take my hat off to guys like you - excellent job
  19. IIRC there are 2 or 3 different spigot beari-ngs for the RV8. Might be as well to check the measuremen ts
  20. Well done Al. The end of one joiurney and the beginning of a lot more Look forward to hearing the beast in anger
  21. Hi David That is a picture of the car as it came to me - the 1.8 CVH and 5 speed gearbox were only rough fitted. The S7 used "box type" mounts with Sierra (Pinto?) rubbers and can be shown in one of these photos The engine does seem to be slightly canted over but the mounts were level, ie - the arms (connected to the block) were the normal Ford ones. I didn't spend much time with this engine as I removed it straightaway and installed a V6 instead. It's long since been scrapped as no one wanted it (99p on Ebay). The radiator i eventuially used was one for a Seat (Ibiza?) [and I ftted that ahead of the suspension, inside the nose cone] but there are plenty of recommendations on here for VW Polo or Golf rads. The Cortina or uprated Coolman rads woulsd also fit into this chassis (and were the original recommendations). You can see it in the second photo...... which also shows an oil cooler from a Rover 200. [ since it's been the subject of current debate, I have also left the viscous fan fitted to the engine to assist , in whatever small way it can, with moving the air in the engine compartment. The rad is cooled ny a small electric puller fan which i scrounged from a scrapyard] I can't be definite about the thermostat on the CVH engine but I would assume it was there. The cross member (behind the suspension) is a piece of (6mm?) stainless angle which I bolted to the front of the chassis, twice at each side. There is also reinforcement inside the original chassis sheet metal. It is a replacement for the original folded-sheet cross member which would have been there when the chassis left the factory but which a previous owner had cut out for some reason. You can see that the original cross member was approx twice the width of my replacement (but of undounbtedly thinner material). "pop riveted plates on the front of the upper chassis " - if you mean the L shaped bits of stainless, these were a previous owner's idea for mounting the nose cone/ bonnet (I think). I removed them. You are quite welcome to come and have a look. I am just near Fokestone. [ If you PM me an address i will try to copy all my build photos onto disc and send them to you but don't be put off by having a look in person] HTH Robin
  22. This picture might help to answer your original query. This is a Sierra based S7 - it has a 1.8 CVH engine and (Type 9) gearbox (loosely) fitted.
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