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robinj66

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Everything posted by robinj66

  1. robinj66

    Grease

    Here's something to be going on with Stuart
  2. Nick's setup sounds very similar to my S7. The oil cooler came from a Rover (200/400 I think) and comes on a bracket at 45 degrees.
  3. I had to do some judicious shaping to get the rear wings to sit nicely. I used sikafles type sealant to fill the gaps to the main body. I used U section to cove any nasty sharp edges and that satisfied the SVA man. I used small soft rubber U section to go around the stone guards (with sealant) before I rivetted them on. The infill panels were made up to fill the gaps and bolted to the flat face inside the boot area. I will be the first to accept that my forte does not lie in makng aparticularly neat job of the finishing - I am in too much of a rush to get driving Hopefully the pics show it better than words.
  4. robinj66

    Thank You

    Big Thanks to Mowerman & Mr T for sending me info, pics and plans for mods on my car. It's really good to know that this club is full of people who put themselves out to help others Cheers Guys
  5. I wonder whether I can rig up something like this for my DGMS on a V6? Do you think it would work just directing cooler air at the carb mouth (thinking any assistance is better than none) or would I need to fabricate some sort of plenum chamber to properly enclose the mouth of the carb?
  6. I'm pretty certain that's what I have in mine. HOWEVER, Haynes says 80 EP to ford spec SQM-2C 9008-A for a 5 speed T9 (Duckhams Hypoid 75W/90S) and Ford spec ESD-M,2C 175-A for the MT75 'box (Duckhams Uni-Matic) For the diff - 90EP to Ford spec SQM-2C 9002-AA or 9003-AA (Duckhams Hypoid 90S) Hope that means something to someone out there
  7. I used strip metal secured with rivnuts - it does the job and was acceptable to three very picky SVA testers
  8. Has anyone got any pics of their underbonnet ducting?
  9. I guess it depends whether you cooling system works for you in hot conditions. If it does then don't worry. I used an alloy bicycle water bottle for my expansion tank with a tube from the overflow on the rad cap. Seems to work OK. I mounted it between the tops of the front suspension arms. I think a full pressurised header tank would be good - if only I had the space
  10. Did you get the proper answer, Daz? I bought some nylon rod and intended to make some top-hat bushes for my S7 on the lathe.
  11. Paul - do you have any pics of the constuction of your tie-bars? Did you buy the tube threaded for the rose joint or did you cut your own thread? I presume you welded the tubes to the cut-down ARB?
  12. Now I have got my pc working properly again, I have posted a couple of pics of my shortened sump on my S7. The engine is a Cologne V6 but not too dissimilar to yours. The sump fitted in fine and didn't even require the ARB to be moved.
  13. I'll be the first to agree that I'm no expert but, working on basic principles - Surely just a mesh is the best thing for a carb, purely in terms of air intake (there's almost no restriction) and a foam filter will only mean a reduction in air intake so your mixture will get stronger? (ie, more fuel per unit of air). Seems to me the fact that your engine is drinking fuel means there is a setup problem with your carb - probably wrong though
  14. There's a crank pulley here (NTDWM) bit expensivebut also a bit bling linky Can't help with the water pump pulley but i would have thought there wouold be oads of zetecs & accessories in the scrap yards
  15. Congrats Angus on getting your engine running
  16. You can always shape and stiffen the milk carton by using gaffer tape - saw them doing that on American Chopper (it doesn't really matter what the inside of the mould looks like)
  17. This (pic attached) might help with some wiring or this site all things Smiths
  18. robinj66

    Posting

    I hate carp spilling
  19. No reason why not - the basic engine is the same (although cam profile may be slightly different) If you are going to fit a manual fuel pump (carbs will run at much lower pressure than injection) then you will need the shaft that fits inside the block (it is usualy blanked off on the injection models).
  20. I can't do Sunday 'cos it's the Darling Buds of May show at bethersden
  21. I'm up for joining you both in going over (You know I never pass up a free cuppa, Al ) but this weekend and possibly the next is out for me.
  22. For some bizarre reason I decided to have a mixture of digital dash and old (Smiths) analogue dials. Not to everyone's taste but does the job for me ( and was cheap ) The digital dash is the Vapor unit ( around £70 ish) and the dials were Ebay finds. One thing to consider is that you need the correct sender units for the dials and gauges you use. Certainly for ease of fitment and supply, I agree with other comments about ETB - I have a set in my other car
  23. Since no one else has posted up, I'll stick my neck out.... If you are buying a ready made loom, it will usually come with a fuse box included (at least, mine from Premier Wiring did) so that will sort the basics. If not then have a look at Grizzly's site - he added a lot of extra fuses and i'm sure I'm not the only one to crib his ideas Basic relay needs - You will need a flasher relay (again, should be included in a loom). Headlights need a relay and it's usually a good idea to have one for radiator fan and horn. I also have one (70amp) for the ignition circuit. You can fit many more if you wish. The relays i have used are the basic 4-pin relays with pins 85 & 86 (activating circuit) and 87 & 30 for the circuit to the component. You can aslo fit a relay for the windscreen wipers if you wish, especially if you want intermittent wipers - it's a bit more complicated than the simple relay so you need the input of an expert.
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