jmspec

Welcome back.

However slow the build is, it will defiantly be faster than mine was 

Jez

Hi,

I seem to remember this issue when I fitted mine many years ago. 

I think I used some chemical metal to straighten it up and then fully tighten up when cured.

I had the thought that if it failed I would come up with a different solution. 

So far no issues.

I bought mine some years ago from somewhere near Doncaster 

He advised what size springs to use.

I will look tomorrow to see if I still have the info 

Its just come to me, they were from Dampertech

Could be good news for me as I always have family commitments on the bank holiday weekend making it nearly impossible to attend Stoneleigh.

I think it was a k3 from memory but I will check tomorrow when I take her out as it was quite a few years since I bought it.

Emerald supplied the initial map to get her started and then it was quite easy to tinker with.

i went the full way with a wide band lambda.

The final mapping was done by John Sleath who defiantly knows his stuff.

I can let you have a copy of the 3 maps I have as I'm sure it would be a good start as it's only the boost which is different 

Since passing the SVA a few months ago I've not been able to drive my car properly because of heating issues.

Last week I finally fathomed out my errors and did a bit of re jigging of the pipes.

On the test run the temp stayed just under 90 degrees even driving on a duel carriage way which would have gone up above 100 previously.

On the same run the car just wouldn't pull and seemed to have no more acceleration than a normal family car.

Yesterday I finally found time to connect the laptop up to the Emerald ECU and found I had no feedback from the throttle position sensor. During my work on the water pipes I must have disturbed the plug. A quick fix and then another test run.

I have 3 maps on the ECU, emissions, low boost and high boost.

I have never tried the high boost as the car simple wasn't ready or run in. 

Low boost runs at 0.4 bar and high at 1.1. Wow what a difference that makes. It actually felt like the front wheels lifted although I'm sure they didn't 

I can actually start to enjoy the car now and attend some events in it.

Jez

Did you find the diagnostic page?

Looked on my Emerald this morning and found the page by accident.

Helped me find my problem. I think it was under the help menu button.

Glad its now sorted but may be worth fitting a fuel filter to the pressure side to stop and more dirt.

I agree that the 6mm pipe on the turbo could do with being the same bore as the inlet although I assume this is correct because the  6mm pipe is steel .

I was seriously looking at the air flow and thinking of altering the sides and bonnet with scoops and vents.

Obviously there is no way back from that so wanted to make 100% sure this was the right path.

I was looking last night at the thermostat housing. I noticed that I have mounted 2 temp sensors. This is the trouble when it takes so many years to build as I cant remember if it had 2 originally or if I've used a bleed point to mount the second one. I think i will alter the bottom one (Dash clock) and put a tee piece in and use it as a bleed point.Then drain off again and fill up really, really slowly. 

If that doesn't work then the jig saw will be coming out and improving the air flow as I know the turbo does produce a lot of extra heat. 

Thanks for comments

This is a crude drawing of the set up.

I think the main difference is the 20mm hose from the expansion tank to the centre of the rad. It looks like its recommended here to tee in to the pipe into the thermostat.

Any advice.

Thanks for the suggestions.

I will contact "Red Robin" for any advice.

The radiator is the standard one which came with the kit.

The intercooler does restrict the radiator a bit. I did think it could be air blockages. What is the best way to get rid of any air blockage. Ive tried filling really slow and squeezing the pipes at the same time, running for a bit then topping up.

Jez

I've read through this topic trying to see if anyone has had many problems with overheating. Most problems seem to be with underheating or slow warm up.

Mine seems to be the the other way round. It warms up to 90 degrees in about 3 mins and seem fine if the ambient temp is below 15 degrees.

Any warmer than that and I have a problem. Can't sit in traffic and can't run for 5 mins at 3000 revs on a duel carriageway without 100 plus degrees which panicked me the other day.

If I run it without the bonnet on all seems fine, fan kicks in when stood still at about 98 and knocks off at about 93 and on duel carriageway ran about 92. 

Im sure if I drove it hard for any time like a track day the result would be catastrophic.

At first I thought it was a air flow problem but now I think it may not be piped up correct. I followed the advice from Robin Hood but I don't think it's anything like the advice given here.

Tomorrow I will make a crude drawing of the circuit and put it on here so any advice would be greatly appreciated. 

I know the turbo makes a difference but I don't think this is correctly cooled either.

Jez

Thanks for the advice

The diagonals should be very close as the corners were within 1/2 kg 

lifted it all 15mm which made such a difference. Didn't bottom out once 

I’ve used GAZ shocks all round.

Will lift it up this week about 15mm all round as I like the look sitting low. Took a bit of time to set up the suspension using scales. Managed to set it up to less than 1/2 kg side to side 

I really hope to make Stoneleigh although I don’t think it will be for the full weekend 

probably try to make a couple of area monthly meets as well 

Finally after 12+ years, she is complete and registered.

Had its maiden voyage today. i find it hard to believe these cars are road legal.

Before its next trip I have to raise it a little as the sump guard caught a couple of times.

Wow, that was fun.

Thanks for the help over the years.

Jeremy

Thanks for the drawing.

I bought some postal scales this week which weigh up to 300kg so the idea is I'll try to set up the suspension as good as possible then make some camber wedges to bring it to about 1 degree 

Its a job for next weekend 

Given this problem a lot of thought this weekend.

Done some more checking and it appears that one side is slightly higher than the other.

I spoke to GBS who have told me they lifted the suspension so the car would be ok on the rolling road for the test.

Ill have to spend some time trying to set up again.

Thanks 

Hi

Yes the car is fully loaded. It passed its Iva last week so it's fully built.

The springs are ok and same poundage. The car sits parrellel to the floor. All looks ok, but I've never stripped off the rear hubs, so the problem could be there.

i think I'll have to take off the rear hubs and have a good measure to check alignments.

I agree that it doesn't sound right to put different shims in each side.

Doe anyone have any drawing of the camber adjuster wedges?

Thanks 

Jeremy

I bought my super spec from Robin Hood as a rolling chassis so the rear axle was already fitted.

The rear wheels have got different amounts of camber. One about 1 degree and the other approx 4 degrees. 

It looks to me that the 1 degree is about right

im not sure why they should be different but am I ok to put a tapered plate on the 4 degree one to bring it back to the same as the other side.

i suppose I can put a parallel plate on the good side to keep the distances even.

Any advice would be great

Thanks, 

Jeremy 

Hi Lloyd,

Mine went for the test last week which it failed on but very minor things.

It appears that although the test hasn't changed, the testers in my area have left because of work changes. Mine was tested by someone who had to drive up from another testing station miles away and he had never seen a Robin Hood.

One minor point was it was listed a 450 kg front end when in fact it was 451.5kg which he failed it on. 

One thing which cam to light on mine before it went for the test was the fuel tank fastening.

My fuel tank was fastened in by Robin Hood but it appeared to be only secured by 2 screws at the back. It had to have a brace fitted under the tank at the front to firmly fix in place. 

Got to admit I didn't spot this as it was only apparent when the tank was lifted up and down with some force 

If you need any photos of anything just let me know although I dont always check my personal emails.

I didn’t know the GBSC route was so popular until I tried to book it.

Been wait months for the booking. The other reason is I took it there is it’s only 30 minutes away 

thanks for the comments 

After to many years the car is nearly finished.

I have booked it in to GBSC to get it through the IVA.

I know its a bit of a cop out at this stage, but work seems to get in the way so much and I don't want the build to stall yet again.

I hope they don't find too much wrong as I feel I have done a decent job.

My main problem will be that I haven't followed the IVA spec to closely, just built it as I think it should be.

Fingers crossed.

Jeremy

Ive used these for years at work.

They really are as good as they appear, but I think its a bit overkill on cars.

Ive just about finished my build and havent used nordlocks.

I ripped the lot out and started again.

Seemed like a good idea a the time

Mind you it has taken me 12 years so far to build it

If you need some diagrams let me know

I'm away for a few days though

Jeremy