jmspec

The main reason I have decided to change it now and not post SVA is so I dont end up with a ugly hole in the cowl for the key. I was hoping to just use a mechanical lock like a Steering wheel cover lock. Thanks for the advice Jez

I was wondering about that. Thought about taking a lock that fits through the steering wheel. Is that ok or does it have to be a steering column lock? Jez

Hi Ian, No the car is not through the SVA. The start switch I am going to use is one of those small chrome panels with a switch, light and a push button. I was thinking of mounting it on the tunnel top, just in front of the gear lever. As for the anti theft, not 100% sure, but probably a battery isolator.

Thanks for that. I am not using the key switch, but putting in a switch and push button thingy. I am using thin wall cable. I have got 0.5mm, 1mm and 4mm. The 0.5 is the cable which I am using for my sensers and switching of the relays etc. The 1mm is for my lights and the 4mm was for the starting and charging circuit. As for the RH loom, I think I had one which was made on a Friday afternoon. Thanks for the advice. Jez.

I have ripped out the loom supplied by RH and making my own. So far all is going well. My question is " How much current does it take to operate the starter solenoid and what size cable do I run from the relay? Any advice will be much appreciated. Thanks, Jez

I bought mine from dampertech for my superspec. He didn't need any info from me apart from the fact that it was a superspec Robin Hood. He also threw in the bushes needed for the difference in bolt size. From memory I think the ones used by RH are 10mm and the hole size in the GAZ ones are 12mm. I bought the u shaped brackets off the shelf from mach1 in Sheffield. Hope this helps. Jez

John, Just nipped down to my garage to have a look. Yep, I have them too, but mine is the Turbo. RH wired mine and so they can't be too important but the whole wiring loom leaves allot to be desired. On Monday I am ripping mine out and starting again. Just plucking up the courage to do it. Jez

Ian & Carole, No I didn't know you could buy them off the shelf, but most of it will not be use, ie washers, wipers, heaters etc. Thats why I was thinking of making my own. If I used spiral wrap then later additions could be added. Just need a few pointers to get me started. I am not a complete electrical novice, just never done to much auto electrical work. Jez

The loom was put on my car by RH and now I have decided to try to sort it out. WHAT A MESS. There are wires chopped off with bear ends left touching the body etc. I have decided not to have heaters and wipers on the car. I have bought Smiths clocks so these need to be re-wired. I am going to buy a replacment ECU (possibly Emerald). The decision I have to make is whether to rip the exsisting loom out and start agian as most of it is not used now and even less will be used in the future. Has anyone out there got any home made diagrams to give me a start on the lighting, fuel pump circuits etc? Thanks, Jez

I will be doing the same for my super spec and was thinking of looking at Mach 1 in Sheffield. Not sure if they will be wide enough, but they look better old fashioned ones. Good luck, Jez

The size of the water bottle supplied with the super spec is huge. I will not be fitting the one supplied. Thinking of an aluminium one or one of those bag type ones seen at the shows. Jez

Thanks for the replies. I will look into the nacelle duct idea more. I had thought about using 1/3 of the grill area in the nose cone to duct it into the intercooler but I have read about cooling problems with the rover engine so I was hoping for an alternative. Again, thanks for your ideas.

I was thinking of using a recessed duct, but I was hoping to force the air through the intercooler. The cooler is as small as I dare go, although I did think about putting two in line, but that will be a winter project after the car is on the road.

I have been looking for the best place to fit the intercooler on my Superspec Turbo. The only place I can see is where RH recommended which is just above the radiator. The problem is, if I don't get a good flow of cool air to it I may as well take the turbo off. I was thinking of mounting a scoop on top of the nose cone and ducting this directly onto the intercooler. Here comes the questions. 1/ Has this been done before. 2/ With a scoop or simular mounted on the nose cone, will it pass the SVA. 3/ Can I buy a scoop in yellow to match the GRP Thanks, Jez

Thanks, I will have a drive around the estate. The website gives their address as unit 14, but I think this is their old one.

I was in Sheffield today and thought I would pop in to mac#1 sports cars to pick up a few bits for my build over Christmas, but it was gone. Not just the company, but the whole building raised to the ground. Has anybody heard whats happened?

Where abouts are you. I will be changing the speedo on my superspec so I will not be using the speedo cable I have. Its yours if you want it. Cheers, Jez

Mat, Let me know how you get on. I have been looking for one myself. Cheers, Jez

Contact Avon Automotive Diagnostics (in Shipston on Stour) Have you got a contact number, cant seem to find them anywhere Thanks, Jez

When I got my Super spec the ECU was already wired up. I disconnected it and wrote the connections down, but have lost the drawing. . I have been told by RH that someone has wired it up diferent than them with better results. Eventually I would like to change it for an Emerald or simular but not until after I have got it on the road and ran it for a bit. The engine is a Rover Turbo. Thanks, Jez

Bought some from Damper tech a couple of weeks ago. He wanted to give me softer ones but the ones I got were front 350 and rear 300. He also has the sleeves to reduce the eyes from 12mm to 10mm bolts. I cant tell you what diffence these shocks make as I am still a few months from being on the road. Jez

Congrats, This has got to be good news, especially as I have think I have fitted one of my panels wrong this weekend. Best of luck. Jez

A scan of the drawings would be great, thanks

After reading so many posts regarding on the subject of shocks I decided to change the supplied ones from RH to Gaz before I get the car on the road. I have bought some U shaped brackets for the bottom of the new shocks. What is the best method of fastening these brackets to the suspension? I was thinking of welding a stud for the rear ones and making some form of plate for the front ones. Any drawings out there. Thanks, Jez

Feel free to take what I say with a pinch of salt because like you I am new to this. Does your fan belt drive the water pump? That might explain the overheating, squealing and now rattling. It also might cause the belt to slip not allowing the alternator to spin fast enough. It may even cause the lack of power. Like I said, feel free to ignore this advise as I have been trying to build a super spec for 7 months and got nowhere. Jeremy