Jump to content

jwaterman

Community user
  • Content Count

    69
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

2 Followers

About jwaterman

  • Rank
    Getting there Builder
  • Birthday 11/22/1976

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    2B+ st/steel body & Chassis, 2.1 160BHP (completed 1st April 2003)
  • Full name
    John Waterman

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hethersett, Norwich, Norfolk,
  • Interests
    My Current progect is gaining my PPL. I am being taught to fly by a friend in return for building his kit plane with him (Yeap a real plane!). Need to keep myself busy and my mind active.
  1. I agree, I went back to crash site today, to have a look in the day light. I was braking a lot earlier than i remember, I had stopped braking just before i turned in towards the apex. The hole in the hedge lines up with the left side of road. The car didnt change heading by more than 10degs, before tires gave up grip and allowed me to hit tree. The damage on car dosn't look as bad as it did at night, just a little bend in chassis, to repair, then replace the GRP.
  2. I wondered when pictures would be asked for, I will try and post some once i have taken them, plan to do that in the morning. Thanks for all your knid thoughts
  3. 22:45hrs on 17th Nov 2005 - I'll remember that date for quite sometime! :boohoo: The Day I got up close and personal with a verge & Tree. Head-on to be precise! :boohoo: I type this with a stiff neck & shoulders. The Damage:- Nose cone U/S, Both Bottom Wishbones bent, Rack is a strange shape, Cycle wings & brackets a little twisted, Front near side Chassis Corner redesigned (pushed back and up by 3 inches) That’s the tip of the iceberg i fear! I must state i was not driving fast at the time, was aware the conditions were icy, so driving accordingly, on a road i was familiar with. Approached a 90deg bend on country lane at 30MPH started braking early, got to apex of bend (prob 15-20MPH), front locked up, before i had time to react was in verge and connected to a tree! All in all I’m feeling a little pig sick. What do I do now? Anyone got any ideas? Is it repairable? I think so. Has anyone straightened a 2b wishbone chassis before? Is there a good place to get spares from other than RHSC? The 10" chassis extension beyond the rack certainly did its job. Good crumple zone, shame I ended up testing it! The servo brakes off sierra are too powerful! i think i will resort to a servo-less master cylinder if i get the car repaired. I will be more in control of what brakes are doing this way. If anyone has any helpful advice & ideas they would be gratefully received. I think i know what my winter project is now! A rather despondent. John
  4. I bought one of the mini camaras from ebay, great little gadget, i havn't played with it yet, but am planning on some in / out of car filming.
  5. I have Toyo Proxes T1S 195-50-R15 85V on mine, they are fanflipintastic, they very sticky in the dry and almost as sticky in the wet. They have the looks as well, I have done 10,000 miles on the rear before replacing and still have the fronts on with 6mm left i have done 13,000 approx miles now, I paid £40 all in per corner. These tyres are the tyres fitted as standard on the TVRs as they leave the factory.
  6. jwaterman

    Header Tank

    I thought i would visit my scrappy today just on the off chance they may have a volvo with a cap on. as luck would have it there were 2 340's there, both with the correct cap and 1 was nearly new. so a quid later i was on my way home to sort the car out with both, one as a back up. cheers all for your help john
  7. cheers bob i will start looking on ebay. were there any white gauges on there? I do like your dash layout. I remember looking at yours with interest when i saw your car at the park hotel. Its a great shame i was unable to come on the last few meets this year, with car out of action and my flying lessons my time has been full, i hope to get the car back on the road this week, i have the tax, i have missed her something rotten. The brand new Vulcan engine i hope will impress me, after such a wait and cost. but she looks good with twin webers, the oil cooler and shinny new paint. Just the dash to sort early next year, will try to keep her on the road as long as possible while doing that though. cheers for your help john
  8. jwaterman

    Header Tank

    well guys i have to say you have all come up top trumps for me today. I thank you all very much for your help and advice, i will go to the volvo dealer tomorrow and get the one i require. I may go for the 100Kpa just to help keep things a little cooler, but i must say i never had any over heatong problems with the 75Kpa one. I know now what car the cap came off so that helps now end and the part number and price, what more can a chap want. I will be zipping around the norfolk lanes before long, watch out Bob here i come. once again a big THANK YOU. john
  9. jwaterman

    Header Tank

    the cap is a black screw on cap with VOLVO & 75Kpa embossed on it. I have tried all my local and larger motorfactors, no joy, even Volvo no use. Terry yes sound like the one, are the valves in a brass disc? john
  10. Hi All, I am feed up with my current dash board configuration, Its the standard sierra cluster etc. I am thinking of spending some of my years bonus on a decent dashboard. I would like to purchase a complete set of instruments, anyone know of any great deals going at the moment? Can anyone recommend a good manufacturer. I particularly like the brushed alli bezel with the white / cream dial and red needles. What are the best electrical speedo? Any good/bad types of sensor applications?The instruments i am thinking on including are Electrical Speedo, Rev counter, Oil Press and temp combined, Water Temp, Ammeter, Voltmeter, clock, and Fuel. Also thinking of having one of the LED repeater clusters in front of wheel. does anyone have any particularly good ideas, designs, features they would recommend me including in my design. Any help would be great appreceiated.
  11. jwaterman

    Header Tank

    hi all, I have a problem, I have fitted my new vulcan engine, had it running, 20 mins into running her up the alternator gives up, so have replaced that, Now i come to drive her and before i even get out of the garage i realise the cooling system isn't getting up to pressure, :gdit: will i ever get to drive my new 160BHP robin hood, GRRRRRRR. :boohoo: the header tank i have fitted at the moment is off a volvo 740, a nice compact cylinderical unit, fitted on the bulkhead above the rocker cover. When i fitted it first time around the original 740 cap had a pressure of 125kpa (18psi or 1.25 bar) this procceeded to blow my rad apart . So few days later at the scrappy i was attempting to remove a sump from a transit and while strugling i bumped my head on a object half buried in the ground, after cursing abit i turned over to remove it and low and behold it was a rad cap that looked identical to my 740 header tank cap but with a pressure of 75Kpa (11ps1 or .75bar) stamped on . So cooling system sorted from that moment on. Now that the cap has given up the ghost i know have a big problem, I don't know what car it came off, neither does my local volvo dealer. does anyone know what i am talking about and know the part i need and where i can get one from??? Or do i have to change the header tank??? If so does anyone have any really good ideas or suggestions on what one to use??? Please help i would really love to drive my newly improved Robin hood, my fingers are itching, :gdit: thanks in advance john
  12. John I have just finished installing my new vulcan engine, with twin 40's, i went for the twin cable system you are talking about. But i havn't used the two cable supplied in the kit along with the pedal adaptor. I was told that the only real need for 2 cables is for the rally boys who raz about the forest in there mkII escorts. These boys have very heavy feet and tend to brake there throttle cablesthe second cable is only a back up. all road cars have 1 cable so why do we need 2??? it only adds weight, and in true hoodie fashion every ounce counts!!! so what i have done is use the exsisting ford sierra cable with the original pedal attachment, cut down the cable length, trimmed the outer sleve back 4 inches and attached to one of the points the twin cable attach to on the carb linkage. Just for added measure and to add 1 extra ounce i was advised to slide a electrical terminal (chocolate block) over the end of the cable to hide the sharpe end and to offer a extra bit of security just incaes the cable slipps. I was at first a little unsure whether one cable would work operating on one side of the linkage, but having driven it there is no notches, stiffness, a big improvement on the poo ford linkage on the 32/36 DGAV. hope this helps, it certainly will reduce the amount of work you need to do and also the cost of the extra bits. best way i think john w
  13. jwaterman

    Which Camshaft

    steve1506 I have a lightened flywheel up for grabs, its a standard flywheel with half its weight removed, standard clutch fitts it ok. pm me if interested john
  14. jwaterman

    Which Camshaft

    I was running a FR32 cam kit on a standard 2ltr carb head, which was skimmed by 50thou. had a lightened flywheel and 32/36 DGAV. The engine was very responsive, good torque through all the gears. its a good idea to have a vernier cam pulley. I have know fitted a Vulcan 160hp engine to my car this last few weeks, its got a FR33 cam fitted to this. First impressions are very good, it idles well to, but i must say that it has a standard flywheel, recomended by vulcan. Good torque to but i have to say you do need to rev it a little more but i am restricted to 4500rpm while running in. It don't half sound good with the twin 40's. A massive improvment on the other engine. so if anyone is interested i have a complete KR32 cam kit avaliable for a sensible price. john
  15. cheers guys, thanks for your help, will have a closer look at the weekend, I am using some special high pressure oil pipe for connection to engine. The thermoblock connector which connects between oil filter and block has a thermosat in it and it will only allow oil to pass through it when the temp reaches 80 degrees C. I was looking at putting the oil cooler behind the radiator in front of the engine, loads of space there. The oil will be running far hotter than the radiator so warm air fromn the rad will still help to keep the oil cool. The ducting i have in front of the radiator works really well, acting like a ram air system, this should help with the oil cooler too. I will certainly look at fitting it in front of the radiator though, my only concern is if a stone decides it wants to inbed itself in it, i will not know i am loosing oil till the oil pressue light comes on!!!! food for thought. cheers again john
×
×
  • Create New...