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About Dan_Beeston

  • Birthday 12/25/1979

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  • Car type
    2B plus EFi Intercooled Turbo on MSII/EDIS
  • Full name
    Dan Beeston

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Napton - Warwickshire
  • Interests
    Cars (surprisingly), bikes (ones with pedals, not engines), burnt meat & cider..............

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Wheely good builder!

Wheely good builder! (4/5)



  1. Hi Steve, Glad you've got it all planned! In answer to you previous question, yes the regulator does have to go after the injectors as it works by bleeding off fuel to maintain/control pressure in the rail, the pressure after the regulator is uncontrolled.............
  2. I'd be happier with them is series, so you know you have the same fuel flow through each (if you have different fuel rails in parrallel I can see them splitting the flow depending on the restriction of the rail by design, so if they weren't identical the flows may not be the same. Think electrical current through tow different resistors in parallel.........) Whether the injectors get enough fuel is a function of the pump, if you try to inject more fuel then the pump can comfotably flow pressure will drop off dramatically. I ran my turbo setup on a standard pump (with swirl pot and facet lift pump), and it coped fine. I used a wideband lambda setup to check for leaning out at full throttle.
  3. Ahhhh, the black art of the dyno You power/torque crossing looks wrong, and according to my fag-packet calcs you've got a ~525BHP engine with those torque figures........................ It appears you've been lied to matey, I'd be asking questions of your Dyno operator........... Of course they are all honest individuals, I'm sure something has been overlooked (quite possibly by me!)
  4. Hi Steve, The easiest (if not the cheapest) is to use an aftermarket ECU, then it's easy to get the fuelling to follow boost based on a MAP sensor....... If you are using extra injectors on a pressure switch, then you don't need to PWM them (they won't be running long enough to overheat, and the control is not required if it's just steady state WOT/one boost level). A relay would be needed if the pressure switch can't handle the current (solid state or electromechanical would be OK) No need to connect to the extra injectors to the original ones, just use the pressure switch to operate the relay coil and the relay contacts to feed +12V to the new injectors. It's not very scientific or efficient, but as you don't generally spend much time on boost (only when accelerating) people put up with just running pig-rich on boost (your only method of control would be to size the injectors according to how much extra fuel you need, or use another fuel pressure regulator to alter the pressure to the new injectors) A low comp pinto will need plenty of fuel on boost to prevent detonation anyway, as the use of a spacer plate will knacker your squish area............ Hope this helps! Cheers, Dan
  5. I turbo'd my old hood......... Homemade Exhaust Manifold Standard injection inlet manifold with Webber 'Yellow' Cosworth injectors Megsasquirt with EDIS wasted spark ignition - 36-1 trigger wheel on crank pulley RS turbo (I think) Garrett T3 Turbo Audi 1.8T intercooler Sierra Coswroth IAT sensor Wideband Lamdba gear for tuning Midly ported head - standard injection cam Low comp pistons (from a transit pinto) Fuel injection definately makes things easier - never understood why so many people are keen to ditch a decent injection system for a set of old-school pain-in-the-arse carbs! I don't get on here very often anymore but drop me a PM if you've got any specific questions! Cheers, Dan
  6. Cheers Joel, excellent secretarial work as always Chris, you have a PM......
  7. No worries Bone Anyone else? still available - toppermost fun day out!
  8. Bump! Open to offers guys, get em' while they're cheap!
  9. hi dan,new member just bought 2005 super spec rover 2.lt.needs clutch cable..can,t find as do,nt know what cable was off..idea,s?cheers billy b.

  10. Hi All, Unfortunately I've found out I'm double booked for Barkston, so I can't come out to play So there's a spare place available (Sat 3rd July) - £50 ono - PM me if you're interested......... Cheers, Dan
  11. I've got a Stainless Steel site box from Machine Mart that bolts onto the Spare Wheel hoop, can't seem to find them on the website now though? Served me well on a couple of trips to the continent, and it's lockable too!
  12. I think the Sierra injection system needs both the EEC-IV and the TFI module to work, the TFI module just being an ignition amplifier to drive the coil. That being said, the hall effect trigger inside the dizzy does connect to both the TFI module and the EEC-IV so I could be wrong........ I know the EDIS system gives you 10deg static if it loses signal with the ECU. If it helps my ignition is now EDIS and Megasquirt controlled, and is much more stable than when I used the dizzy..........
  13. Boooooo!!! If I bought a share in it would it actually spur you on to get it built? (After you've finished my kitchen doors, or course!) :-p
  14. Hi Chris, The 2B chassis is not particularly well triangulated, so it's probably not particularly stiff compared to a well-built locost/westie/Caterham etc (note the Locost book chassis is not very well triangulated either, most people build in a lot of extra triangulation) The 2B chassis is strong however, but it is also heavy to make sure it's up to the job. If ultimate strength to weight ratio or stiffness to weight ratio are your goals, then the 2B won't be the best, but it's better than a lot of people give it credit for a first glance! The facts in this post belong to everyone, the opinions belong solely to the author, the distiction is for the reader to draw
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