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About Petemate

  • Birthday 09/17/1936

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    Saab Vector Sportwagon 1.9 Tid 150 BHP Auto
  • Full name
    Peter Richard Cherry

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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Kennington, Oxford
  • Interests
    Kitcars, music, wildlife programmes,maintaining the family vehicles

Petemate's Achievements

Wheely good builder!

Wheely good builder! (4/5)



  1. I too wondered at the description, but though that the seller meant it was an S7 type of car. But of course, as RH did an S7 that would have been the intended type I suppose. Pete
  2. ROFL!! I did think that, remembering some previous Home Calls where many hands would mill around some hapless builder.... I'm doing good ta - regrettably, the replica rod had to go, as while working, and having returned to caravanning, we didn't have enough time to devote to it. (please see my avatar....) However, now that I've retired - I STILL wouldn't have the time. I finished work June last year and I have still not finished the massive 'to-do' list, which grows by the week. Very enjoyable though to be able to say "I wont do that today". Good Luck All!
  3. Hi All - I hope you are all well. Long time no post, and I couldn't resist this. Mods: please be assured this is not an attempt to advertise, more an attempt at giving fellow forum members a bit of amusement. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Robin-Hood-2B-4-Kit-Car-/111037581511?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item19da5b08c7 I feel that the claim of "a weekend's work to complete" is a tad optimistic. What does the team think? Brgds Pete
  4. How is the build going Terry? Brgds Pete
  5. On the day I arrived armed with loads of stuff, including spare edge trim etc, and obviously tools, including a 3/4" AF spanner for the headlight adjustment. I also was armed with lots of photos of the seat belt mounts, notably the inners & lowers which could not easily be seen, but they were not needed. I showed them to the tester, but he said he could see that everyting was in order. (he ran his fingers expertly and may I say lovingly over all the mounts and bolts and declared them to be ruddy good) He even adjusted the headlights for me while I was sat in the car after taking the spanner from my nervous hand. As Chris has said, the tester is your friend; he is there not only to do a job but to avoid you venturing out on the road with a death trap. They really are a good bunch. While my son would not entirely agree with me (having his Dax Rush meticulously built and failed for such things as the radius of the rear reflectors) they have a job to do and whatever you do DO NOT ARGUE - it is pointless. FWIW Pete (PS I was lucky with a first-time pass)
  6. Agreed - great bloke. He also gets about - saw him at the Billing Fun Run over the weekend at the end of May. His work is awesome, and his bike (the one with the flip paint) and trailer. Pete
  7. Petemate


    Planning to do just that!! Great minds think alike. Also cheers Terry - look forward to seeing you all again. Pete
  8. Petemate


    The needle IS flush with the piston! The spring loaded type needle has a small collar that the needle sits in and the position is dictated by the collar being flush with the piston lower face. I'll try to do a sketch later... Pete P.S. Can't get to the campover as I'm working this weekend. But I'm sure I'll see some of you tomorrow night, as I leave work at 1900 and will go straight to the Dewdrop on the way home. 'Ow about that? Pete
  9. Petemate


    What it is John is this. The jet holder in the older carbs sits up level with the bridge. In the HIF, the holder is a few mm lower than the bridge. I think that the PDF I have on tuning the SU HIF has taken a bit of text out of context, ie as in the old carbs it makes reference to levelling up the jet with the bridge then adjusting down. But in the Montego Haynes, the instruction is to line the jet up to the level of the holder (which from the sectional view is the same as mine, below the bridge) so I am thinking that is the way to go. (I tried levelling the jet with the bridge then taking it two turns of the adjusting screw down and although the needle is spring-loaded up you can feel that the needle binds in the jet before the piston contacts the bridge.) Pete P.S. did you ever get the carb(s) back from Steve Libby?
  10. Petemate


    Now getting down to the "grubby mechanic's hands" bit. Stripped the SUs - new gasket/'O'-ring kits coming in a couple of days. Now my 'formulative' SU years were at BL in the old Marina/Oxford/1100/1300 3-litre days with the old SUs with separate floats. On my HIFs, the jet holder sits below the bridge. The PDF I've downloaded on SU tuning for the HIF mentions the initial setting for the jet as two turns down from level with the bridge. I don't think this can be right, as the holder sits so far below the bridge that the jet would have to be too proud. However, the Haynes for the Montego, while the carbs are later with cold-start devices, more accurately mentions the setting parameter from the holder rather than the bridge. When I stripped the carbs, the jets appeared to have been set from the holder rather than the bridge, which would seem to be correct. Natch, the Haynes for the SD1 simply says "set by the factory, do not adjust"!! The float settings were way out, with a level far too low - this now sorted. All gunge cleared out and waiting for the new gaskets etc. Need the ambiguity between the various instructions ironed out. Any HIF experts out there? TIA Pete
  11. Can't put this in the right section (embarrassingly, membership lapsed) but feel it ought to be put on somewhere. Here goes. Anyone in the Oxon area or within a reasonable distance ought to be aware of a good source of supply. The prices knock most show stands into a cocked hat. Sizes right up to M12 - csk, buttons, cap nuts, s/tappers - you name it. Into the drill with Solvol - instant polished. Loads on my old Robin Hood, now loads on the Roadster. Toolmaster, Oxford Road, Cowley. They are very helpful people and their tool stock is also fantastic. They have a website. Prices? Try this for an example: 12 X M10 Button heads, 30mm under head; 12 M10 cap nuts, 12 M10 plain nuts all SS; 2 X 3/8 UNC locknuts & 20 1/4 unc plain nuts. £5 the lot. FWIW Pete P.S. apologies to all who already know. P.P.S. That's the dearest I've paid - when I see one of the lads who knew my RH & knows the Roadster, he usually just looks at my handful & says "couple of quid mate"
  12. To anyone watching this ad - as an ex-aircraft engineer, I can truly state this was built by an aircraft engineer and was built to a very high standard. What a steal. Anyone interested - challenge is to view it then not buy it. FWIW Pete
  13. AFAIR the 90 degree rule is applied fairly vigorously to the rear fog. The lights & indicators have a degree (pardon the pun...) of flexibility Pete
  14. I think this is also covered in the ACE website (Association of Car Enthusiasts - backed by the NASC & NSRA) Try this & have a good look at all of their website:- www.the-ace.org.uk Pete
  15. MANY moons ago when I was building mine, there was talk of failures with mounts welded to the back of the tubes. So off came mine, from the round cross bar (early 2b) and believe me they came off easy. With each of the (2) mounts, once I'd ground through one side of the welding, I just got hold of them with a pair of gland nut pliers and twisted them off. Frightening. So through the cross member went two holes and the mounts were then TIG welded in. Bootiful job. Better safe than sorry, eh? Pete
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