RedTrev

Yes, thanks both, great fun; and thanks again Kerry and Richy for the bottom ball joint fix: it got home, only unscrewing by about 90 degrees

Yes there's a gate code, it's also your code to access the toilet block. They claim it's linked to your number plate, but don't know how because they didn't ask for it when making the booking. I'm here already; came up Wednesday for a couple of nights with the daughter and the dog, going back tomorrow to drop them both off home before returning in the kit.

Now sold.

Thanks for sorting this Kerry . Yes, it’ll be just me, my bro was planning to come along but didn’t get his holiday request approved at work .

Kerry, if I’m not too late to ask (sorry, I’ve been away for a while), could I join you on the Friday evening, please? If so, I’d like the Salmon Teriyaki, thanks.

Sluggish cranking can be caused by over advanced ignition timing. You can try cranking with HT disconnected to see if it cranks faster, or try retarding the ignition slightly (assuming you have distributor turn it clockwise). Just to add, there was a member on here recently with a similar issue; changed starter, changed battery, checked leads and connections, checked voltages etc etc, to find it was all down to ignition timing

Mine's in the engine bay; the length of the capillary tube restricts how far the controller/dial can be away from the rad/hose.

Here's a similar one: https://www.holden.co.uk/p/thermostatic_fan_for_radiator_fans It looks like that one comes with a relay anyway

There's more than one way to skin a cat, but the top hose method works for me. I have a 2.0L Pinto with an old school Kenlowe capillary controller (don't know if you can still get them?), the setting is half way between the "N" and the "H"; what that equates to numerically I don't know, but I know the fan comes on in traffic on a hot day . It has never overheated so far . The dial allows you to set the operating temp yourself. It's also a high current switch so (for mine) no fan relay was needed (unless your fan draws more current than the switch rating).

I think you need to consider the operating temperature of the fan switch. For arguments sake, if your thermostat opens at 88C and your fan switch (fitted to the bottom hose) operates at 95C, would you want to wait until the coolant leaving the radiator reaches 95C before the fan cuts in? What would the temperature of the coolant leaving the engine be at this time? If the fan switch is located in the top hose the fan will cut in when the coolant leaving the engine reaches 95C. When the engine is at normal running temperature the fan would not always be on because the coolant has not reached the switch operating temperature.

A few comments here: https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/topic/49730-e10-fuel/&tab=comments#comment-405934

You'll need the Basic IVA. Details here: https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-approval/individual-vehicle-approval

I got Steve Walford to tune Keihin ZX9R carbs to my 2.0l Pinto. After checking the initial condition, he blocked the air correctors immediately. He explained, from his years of experience, that going through the process of slowly opening up the jets, he'd reach the point where he'd have to block the correctors, and then have to reduce the jets back down, often back to the size that they were initially. It might be a better starting point for you to try.

Apart from Rover/MG, I guess there'll be a few makes and models having no data because the manufacturer no longer trades, but the vehicles may actually be compatible: Rover No compatibility information for Rover cars is available as the manufacturer no longer trades. It is therefore not recommended to use E10 petrol No mention of ZX-9R in the list for Kawasaki, so my carbs might be at risk: Kawasaki E10 fuel compatible Kawasaki motorcycle models: KLX125 - 2010 D-Tracker 125 - 2010 KLX250 - 2008 Ninja 250R - 2008 Ninja ZX-6R - 2007 ER-6n - 2006 ER-6f - 2006 Versys - 2007 Z750 - 2007 W800 - 2011 VN900 - 2006 Z1000 - 2009 Z1000SX - 2011 Ninja ZX-10R - 2006 ZZR1400 - 2006 1400GTR - 2008 VN1700 - 2009 VN2000 – 2008 Honda make a statement about their carbs: Honda All Honda motorcycles and mopeds produced for the EU market since 1993 can use ethanol-blended gasoline up to 10% although carburettor-equipped models could experience poor driveability in cold weather conditions.

...and if you own a Rover or MG then the Gov site recommends you do not use E10 as no compatibility data exists (for obvious reasons!)

What's the feeling about this imminent change to the ethanol content in standard unleaded fuel? I'm reading it means little change to performance or economy, but some components may suffer, like fuel pumps, carbs, filters, pipes etc, depending upon their compatibility with ethanol. Some parts, like the fuel pipes, are, I guess, easier to confirm, based on their spec, but most of us have a good mix of parts from different donor cars/bikes that could be more difficult to confirm (pumps/carbs etc.). Is it time to use only "super" fuel like BP Ultimate or Shell V Power, etc. to avoid problems? https://www.gov.uk/guidance/e10-petrol-explained

Booked pitch 15, Friday and Saturday nights

Before I list on eBay at an elevated price, I thought I’d offer this on here. Pinto-ready Weber 38DGAS dual downdraught carburettor. Designed originally to be fitted on six cylinder engines (Ford Essex engine in the 3.0 litre Capri, for example), the two throttle valves are linked so their action is synchronised, as opposed to the progressive action seen on the smaller 32/36 weber carbs (normally fitted to the 2.0 litre Pinto) All working fine, including the automatically operated choke system, when removed from my 2.0 litre pinto just a few months ago. Mounted on the Pinto inlet manifold, it comes with K&N filter, the throttle linkages & bracketry and the cable to connect to a Sierra pedal. It was set up for me on the rolling road by Steve Walford Motorsport, and it has: Main jets 140 & 130 Air jets 170 & 160 Idle jets 0.65 & 0.60 Emulsion tubes 2 x F50 Collection from (or meet near) Coventry (too heavy/bulky/much trouble to post really). £200.

I took the "uninteresting" VIN route, trying to follow the ISO standard as much as I could (as I understood it at the time, anyway!): The first 3 digits give indication of where the vehicle was made; UK vehicles start with "S", so I chose "S". The 3rd digit should be "9" if the manufacturer makes fewer than 500/year, so mines a "9". Digits 4 through to 9 indicate some general details of the vehicle type, so mine is "RH2B" with 2 other digits I chose but can't remember why (possibly something to do with the gearbox) Digits 10 to 17 indicate clear identification of the vehicle, so I followed the old Ford method of using the engine number. The 10th digit represented the vehicle model year, so I used the date the bare kit left the Robin Hood site. It was accepted by DVLA so I was happy

No, definitely not. The Tyco relays I know were made in the EU

What type of relay(s) are you after? If it's the "inch square" type (aka "mini relay" and "power relay F4") 4 pin, normally-open, drop me a pm. Like these: https://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=srchrtrv&DocNm=V23134-X0000-A001&DocType=DS&DocLang=English

Interesting rule change! Of course, fitting LED bulbs does not necessarily equate to dazzling headlights, as a well engineered LED device would replicate, or better, the bulb it is intended to replace. I have Philips LED bulbs in my kit which, although bright, easily met the criteria of no light in the dazzle zone in previous MOTs. Actually, the tester noted that the horizontal cut-off was way better than that of H4 filament bulbs in similar headlights. I believe the burning question is: what dictates an "existing halogen headlamp unit"?

If you mean the crankcase breather, I’d say no. I tried it, it didn’t work. Have a read in the link below; they advise not to connect to a single runner dedicated to a single cylinder. https://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-guide-pages/engine-breather-system.html

It’s a nice compact unit that Taxi heater; I have the same in my 2B, it sits nicely on the tunnel between the bulkhead and the facia, and just draws air from it’s surroundings.

This is worth a read if you haven’t already done so: https://www.classicfordmag.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/classic-ford-ultimate-guide-to-bike-carbs.pdf