miikae

Devine intervention needed here Tim , try taking up campanology for a while at your local !

I bought a pair of Recaro seat runners off ebay for my Cobra 7 seats £15.00 if i remember correctly and they where nearly new , i ended up having to use 15mm spacers all round to clear rear subframe fixing bolts , this also helped clear the adjusting lever at the front of the seats from the carpet , plus added another 15mm spacer to the front of the seats to kick them back a wee bit , hope this helps . regards mike

By the sound of it you have replaced most things but still not checked or replaced the drive shafts , as the joints can make a nasty noise on the overun but will go when power is applied , as i had this problem with LOBO joints a while ago , hope you get it sorted , Mike

The thread if my memory serves me right is a 1/4" NPT (a tapered thread ) mike

Possibly a 1960 series 1 Lotus 7 A , a clone of the Austin Healey frogeyed sprite with its 948cc A series engine with twin 1"1/8 SUs , plus lots of Hoodie type mods & additions , gauges look like sprite ones from here .

it should be very close to your inlet manifold and behind the distributor .

Very good , thats just woke me up this morning cant stop laughing .

Hi i had a similar problem when i fitted a larger quadrant , this was due to there not being enough free play in the cable and so not allowing the ratchet to access the quadrant teeth properly , only ending up on the smooth land at the end of the quadrant when you pulled the pedal back , then you need to move the quadrant back a wee bit to bite on the ratchet to start with , it worth a quick check just to see if it is the case , unless as mentioned before the ratched spring is faulty Mike

Hi Ian , give me a ring on 01507578538 as i may be able to help you out and thus save you some cash . regards mike

I joined both group's too , nice one .

hi , check these out , black or silver as stated on ebay 150148098002 Check out my garage as that just what i did , used 6 in all Regards Mike

Antenna tuning , Setting the SWR All CB antennas are tunable. Antennas that have an easy, often mechanical, tuning device are referred to as a "tunable antenna". Accordingly, lots of people think the other antennas are not tunable and so they make no attempt to have the antenna tuned. This is a critical mistake. Wire-wound antennas without mechanical tuners, that test electrically long (higher SWR on ch 40), can be tuned by removing wire from the top. Remove the antenna cap, remove one wrap of wire and cut it off. Recheck the SWR again. As long as the SWR is higher on channel 40 continue to cut. Do not cut more than one wrap at a time. If SWR testing indicates the antenna is electrically short (higher SWR on ch 1), the coils at the top of the antenna can be separated and spaced further apart or accessories that increase the physical length of the antennas (springs, quick disconnects) can be added. Solid fiberglass antennas (straight or helical wire impregnated in fiberglass resins) that are electrically too long (higher SWR on ch 40) can be cut shorter with a hacksaw or grinder. Cut only 1/4 of on inch at the most at one time. If the SWR test on one of these antennas indicates that it is electrically short (higher SWR on ch 1), the addition of a spring or quick disconnect (or both) is the only way to correct for the short condition. Base loaded antennas with wire whips have a set screw (or two) just below the area that the whip is inserted into the loading coil. By loosening up the set screw(s) you are able to slide the whip up or down as required. If the SWR is higher on ch 40 slide the whip down, If the SWR is higher on ch 1 raise the whip. If you where closer i would do it for you Hope you sort it out ok Mike (G0SWW)

I have AA breakdown recovery and it covers any car i own , last year we drove to Bournmouth in my car to pick up a car i had bought and which broke down oops , a nice man brought it back home for me , so i have no complaints as it was far cheaper than taking a trailer to bring it back home ( a cunning plan ! or what ) Mike

Hi , I had trouble locating these bushes last year , RH didnt know what i was talking about and sent me some that where no good at all , in the end i had some made by a family member from black nylon 66 together with high tensile new rods , the bushes fitted to mine are 30mm long by 30mm dia , you can buy this black nylon rod from ebay (160140805491) , while you are at it fit grease nipples and pack with grease as this will help them last longer plus it should will help prevent the pivot rods from corroding and help keep water out with any luck . mike

Is this an Alton Towers Prototype by any chance , nice after a few beers or maybe nnnoootttt

Hi , If you go along to your local Bearing services , or any bearing supplier for that matter most towns have one or two outlets , with the length , id & od of the needle roller you require they should be able to fit you up , Pinto to type 9 bearing no F 33126 z Hope this helps Mike

Nice one , i havnt laughed so much in ages -----still laughing hehe haha

Hi , I had a similar thing a few weeks ago , it turned out to be lack of tank ventilation thus not allowing enough fuel through when i floored as speed , it caused a bit of a vacuum in the tank , pump didnt like it too much , but alls ok now as i now have two vents ,used the back feed spill on the sender unit plus the filler cap . Hope you sort it . Mike

1-lots of positive thinking needed , 2- just do it you know you can , 3-procrastination takes ages dont it just , SUNS out so a just do it day is here Tim . Mike

Certainly not wrong there , nice when a plan comes together ,

Hi , and that is exactly what i did with my isspro sender , a tight fit but it fitted ok , it looks the same as the one you have fitted too , pleased that you managed it without removing the tank , a good job worth doing all done now eh . Mike

Hi , if you have the two supporting straps underneath , then is quite easy , just disconnect the wiring and plumbing from the sender unit ,remove filler pipe , that should just pull out with a bit of a twist or so , the tank shouild then just drop out , you will have to raise the back end a bit though as it will foul on the hanger rods , with regards to your new sender unit , is it a sender unit only without fuel feed pipes , if it is you will have to fit one somewhere , i had to remove my standard sender unit due to a broken tank stud ,(rubbish idea ) , i cut the top out of a ford tank and bolted it on so that i could easily remove the sender should the need arise , makes a good job out of it too , you could use a blanking plate with a hole to match your sender and bolt it on the same as i did . Hope this is of some assistance to you Mike

Snap mine is just the same 2 red 1 blue for the ign light . all works ok as long as the plug stays in as i have lost the plug retainer spring clip oops . The body is the ground connection .

Sounds like a good idea , as ive just googled it and now i know i think !

Hi Peter, I have just been checking my Automotive bible and i have plenty of info for you regarding Lucas C series dynamoes, i do happen to have a reconned C45 that i refurbished as a lad he he , with all the proper stuff too as i worked for one of the leading electrical motor makers as an apprentice , i have also got lots of info on the Lucas voltage regulators , if you let me have the regulator number ie RF95 AND RB106-1 etc i can send you a copy of the relevant testing and setting info , as far i can remember the field coils are wound on a laminated soft iron core to prevent magnetic build up . usualy the comm is the biggest problem together with the brushes ofcause , Oh those A30s , i bought one for my sister to learn to drive in , it went really well until she wiped out the fence to a local scrap yard and yes i was the yelling co pilot , she backed out and we went home great little car , i may be able to help with more info on these just ask . Bed time now regards Mike