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TheDog

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About TheDog

  • Birthday 04/03/1979

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  • Car type
    westfield
  • Full name
    Chris Rowlands

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  • Location
    Fleet, Hampshire

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  1. TheDog

    Non Firing Engine

    i followed your advice the other day and got the engine started on Sunday and took it up and down the road a couple of times. it was running a bit lumpily so was tweaking the dizzy a little to try and get it running smoother. then it stopped, and i tried to re-start but nothing happened, so i went in for the night and put the battery on charge. However, on Monday morning i tried to tweak it a bit more, and it woudn't start. So i took the dizzy cap off and had a look, and when the crank was at 8 degrees TDC (on the compression stroke), the rotor arm was nowhere near the sensor.. it's as if the mechasim had moved or soemthing. As i said, it was running one minute, then the next, to get the rotor over the sensor i had to twist the dizzy about 20 degrees. See attached pic, which shows where the sensor is and where the rotor arms are for 8 degree TDC. I have also tried setting it up like this (with the dizzy twisted round so much), but it still didn't start. Does anyone have any ideas on what might have gone wrong, or moved? i didn't think anything mechanical could have moved, but it seems to have done! chris
  2. TheDog

    Non Firing Engine

    Nigel, thanks very much for this very detailed advice, looks like you realised i'm a complete numpty at this and need it all spelled out! I'm sure this will help others too in time! What you say makes perfect sense, and i will do this this afternoon (I foresaw your advice and have already borrowed a strobe light!), and let you all know how it goes! Chris
  3. TheDog

    Non Firing Engine

    Guys, Does anyone know the advance numbers for a kent RL21 fast road/rally cam? I have pulled these figures from the kent website, Power Band Cam Lift(mm) Valve Lift(mm) Duration Timing Full Lift VC (mm) LTDC Required Parts 2500 - 7500 N/A 11.92 314 Deg 52/82 92/42 105Deg I 0.25 E 0.25 N/A CF12 / VS10 but it doesn't seem to give what i think i need. I got this from; http://www.kentcams.com/product/prodDets.a...mp;ModEngID=191 Haynes for a pinto says 6 degrees before TDC, should i start here? Thanks Chris
  4. TheDog

    Non Firing Engine

    having said that i now can't find any articles or posts that explain how to use the timming light - well, that's not quite true, I think that the light flickers should line up with the lines on one of the pullys, but if they don't what are you supposed to do? any help would be very much appreciated.... thanks Chris
  5. TheDog

    Non Firing Engine

    sparks firing an all 4... and dizzy rotor arm moves as it should. Good news chaps... the car now starts using the twisting the dizzy trick. although i had to move it quite a few degrees (10ish) before it actually started - and it sounded pretty rough. I then moved it a few more degrees, and it sounded just as bad so have now left it! so the question is, what next, is it worth rocking the dizzy backwards and forwards to get a smoother running engine, or do i have to get a strobeoscope to do it properly. I think there are some other posts about fine tunning on this site, but any good tips on how to do it - as you may have guessed, i've never done that before either. thanks chris
  6. TheDog

    Non Firing Engine

    this makes sense, but i'm not sure when the appropriate cylinder will be at tdc. say it's cynlinder 1, how do i know when this cylinder should be firing? Thanks Chris
  7. TheDog

    Non Firing Engine

    hiya, thanks for that, and this may sound like a stupid question, but how do you do that? Do have an idaea of what might i have changed accidently? thanks Chris
  8. ok chaps, i need some help (again!), here is some history to this; (2L pinto, with RL21 road/rally cam and 45 webber carbs) 1. car was running fine 2 weeks ago- then just died. 2. first i thought it was the coil as there was no spark, but on further diagnostics i traced it back to the optical sensor (Lumination Optronic) inside the distributor, which wasn't signaling the coil to fire (the earth connection wasn't being made) 3. I have just replaced the optical sensor with one i had off an old engine (which was exactly the same sensor, i.e. another lumination with the same wires, same size, same sensors etc.) 4. The spark is now being generated - i've tested this in 2 ways and both times the coil fires So i've put it all back toegether, but the engine still won't start! When the coil wasn't firing the engine just turned over constantly (and with consistant rythum). Now it turns over a few times, then bogs down for a turn, then keeps on going for 3-4 turns, then bogs down etc... Is this the engine trying to start? I have tried this lots of times now but still not starting, on one occasion i thought that i heard a tiny combustion once, but that was it. As i have the same sensor, the spark is firing, could this be to do with the timming? I'm not sure what else it could be, but i would have thought that it at least should start (even if it runs rough and dies straight away). Thanks Chris
  9. TheDog

    -ve Lead On Coil

    hi, i'm back, having tested everything! It seems the coil is ok (i.e. spark firing), so the problem is definatly on the electric ignition side. After looking at the online manual, and doing some fault diagnostics http://www.lumenition.com/PMA50ins.pdf Using this i have found that the lead feeding power into the system is feednig the right power, but the two cables that provide the signal out of the distributor to the ingition box, which trips the earth signal to the coil are not working right. Does anyone know if you can buy just the distributor bit of the Lumination optical ignition kit, or would i have to buy the whole thing (i.e. including the little box with the wires going in and out). thanks chris
  10. TheDog

    -ve Lead On Coil

    hi, thanks for all this advice!! I will take a look at the weekend - and let you know how it goes!! Ta Chris
  11. It does get a bit wet, but the top of the filter is metal (like a cap on a cylinder), and the cylrindical bit is the actual fliter. I don't take it out in the rain much anyway, and it seems to work fine. As i said, mine came pre cut, and i agree with you that cutting a perfect circle in a bonnet may not be easy! good luck, chris
  12. I bought mine 2nd hand, but it had a hole cut in the bonnet to make room for the air fliter. It looked quite good, nice shiny K&N sticking out the top!
  13. TheDog

    -ve Lead On Coil

    Hi, thanks for your responses so far. The joys of diagnosing a car you didn't build! It also sounds like the wire that goes to the ignition is the key wire, do you know what the wires that go to the tachometer are for? Are they essential? When testing the spark at the HT bit of the coil, how should i do this. Is the best way to just unplug the HT lead and look for a spark? Or use a volt meter? Sorry if this sounds dumb! I don't think my 2 wires go into a surpressor (what does that do anyway). I will take a look at the following things, but i'm not sure how to test some of them, is there an easy way to test -faulty ignition amp -faulty dizzy (the low tension side) -fault in the power supply to the ignition amp -fault in the wiring between coil, dizzy and amp (i should be able to do this ok) Thanks Chris
  14. TheDog

    -ve Lead On Coil

    Thanks, i thought it might be this but am a bit worried where the other cables go in case something else isn't working, but i will try this before i do anything else. Is it standard for any other cables to come off the -ve terminal like on mine? Thanks for your help.
  15. TheDog

    -ve Lead On Coil

    i'm having problems that i thought was caused by the coil, but i have just replaced it with a new one and it still doesn't work. The coil is getting power through the +ve terminal once the ignition is turned, but i think there is a problem with the -ve terminals (I don't think it is earthing properly). I have 3 leads comming off the -ve terminal, 1 goes to what i think is something to do with the electric ignition and two go off into a wiring loom and i think they end up under the dashboard. What is standard practice for the -ve leads, where should they go? It used to work until a few days ago, when the engine just stopped working. (p.s. it's a 2L pinto), whith an electric ignition. Thanks for any help Chris
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