GambolGold

I used an air filter housing of a mk1 MR2. This is a photo with the home made lid removed.

Thanks for the superb and definitive part numbers Martin. I actually bought these just today :eBay number 262032631420. So I won't have to use the press - or maybe I will, to get the old ones out. M12s it is then.

Seeing that I need to remove the arms, I will use a press. Using a press is it then just as straight forward to use the black rubber bushes, or will they still be really difficult to fit? (should I still buy the poly bushes, though I'm using a press? )

I can feel a SORN coming on. They must have reached the end of their usefulness relatively recently as the MOT man did not list them - though they are exposed - and he did list the inboard front coil-over bushes which you can only see by taking off the bonnet. Thanks Richy and everyone else.

I take it the inner ones are easier to replace?

Thanks all who have replied. Yes it's a tad sloppy depending on how you drive. Do the inner bushes need replacing at the same time as the outer, or is it a case of replace as needed? Cheers

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0168ILW90/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3W1WKQD6TJ28Y&colid=325DE5U7SSID3 Do these look familiar to anyone? Obviously new bolts etc would be fitted too, and maybe the welded washer trick done.

Can anyone provide a part number etc. for these bushes please?

So, to summarise : * these are metalastic bushes, comprising an inner tube with a rubber bush bonded to it and a metal case bonded to the out side of that. * the bolt fixes the tube to the 'shackle' on the rear subframe. So the tube does not move at all relative to the subframe. * the casing is pressed into the trailing arm. * the suspension movement only happens because of the rubber flexing. All metal components are rigid. Two photos : 1. There are two, ehem, 'shims' fitted here, which makes me wonder whether it's the correct sized bolt anyway. The bolt head has started to move relative to the metal it goes through (I'm calling a shackle for now). 2. (looking forwards) this shows the rubber either side of the swing arm. Is this what you'd expect a metalastic bush to look like?

I too own an S7. Your photos show the side of the car on the right and the bulkhead which faces your feet on the left. There is no connection between the panels here. Someone has stopped the draft with sealant.

This is different as the current bolts are 11 or 12mm. Yes, after I get home Sunday evening I can get some photos. So maybe Monday evening after work. Thanks again.

Many thanks. So the diameter of the bolt should match the diameter of the hole (the holes in mine are about 2mm wider than the bolts). And if the holes are too big I need to weld washers on - would this be only to the outside or to the inside too? One more question to put out to determine whether the bolts were correct in the first place : what should the diameter of the bolts be?

Yes, the bolt heads are seen to move on acceleration. From what you say the bolts are there to locate the bushes, not to keep things tight. So there is meant to be some movement between bolt and hole - as the bush flexes? Have I got the right idea?

Hi, There seems to be lots of play on the outer pivots of my rear suspension - Ford Sierra. (on a monocoque chassis, so it's the visible bit when looking from the side). Could anyone please provide dimensions etc for the bolts and holes? Cheers, Nat

Well done, congratulations. I live in Dukinfield, not very far from you. When life's other obligations permit I can be found driving in all weathers. I might see you around.

You could check the other three tyres for a clue for pressure, however it sounds as though they have not been checked for a while, so might be less than they should be.

People usually inflate their tyres to 18psi, give our take a psi. Wheel nut torque, well that would be determined by the specs for the donor. Usually I make sure it is not to tight I could not replace a wheel my self at the side of the road.

Looks fast on a smooth surface. Stiffer clock spring should give more torque.

I'm surprised no one has mentioned this old chest but nut: Rotor arm in your pocket. (or did i miss it) O.kay HT lead if it doesn't use a rotor arm.

I can remember an episode of TW (probably TW) where the presenter put the CD on the ground, rubbed it with his foot into the dust and then played it with perfect clarity. This was a selling point for the technology then. Any one else remember that?

How I installed grease nipples on mine is how you described, except I took the bolt out first and removed any swarf before refitting and greasing. I drilled equidistant from the ends of the tube part of the lever for the hole for the nipple - I supposed it would allow both sides to fill with equal pressure of grease. Someone mentioned making sure the arm pivots on the bolt, rather than allow the bolt to pivot in the cross member. On mine that was done simply by making sure the nuts are tight enough on the bolt. While I was at it I repositioned the shims (which are washers) for maximum castor angle, hence better steering self centring.

Just curious, a beefier starter motor, does it need a beefier battery?

I use inboard shocks. They allow full travel of the suspension, are accessible to inspect, adjust and change and are protected from the elements, road salt etc. Perhaps the arrangements is slightly heavier than alternatives.

My registration document says first registered 1996. It was built from bits, not from one donor. So I assume thats the start year. (Still its part of the democratic process. So I've signed it).

I think its because with the letters from 'Oil Level Indicator' you can create the phrase 'A Ventricle Oil Idol'. But from 'Dip Stick' you can't make anything better than 'Dip Ticks'. So from an anagram creating perspective Oil Level Indicator is clearly the best term to use. I think this is probably how most politically correct phrases are decided upon.