sylvia.fry2

stef, got all the pics. here but I'm doing something wrong big-time; need EASY step-by-step info on transfer from "MY Pictures" to this site, thanks for your patience, regards Bob.

Hi stef, I've tried to P.M you direct with info on the GBS 4 to1 manifold but it doesn't seem to be going thru-- can you post if you received or not. Regards Bob

Is this a follow-on from Gbs Grumble posted on 18-3-08? I still have a manifold & possibly a silencer in S/steel if you want to be sure of receiving same in the near future. Regards Bob.

We'll be there--- stale buns at 20 paces-- where is the resumay posted? Regards Bob & Sylvia.

Brolly-brake is probably a better fix than my idea-- pity I didn't think of it (Tape measure on dash to see how far you've gone???)

RH supplied my propshaft last year I recon the nipples are 1/4" UNF (1/8"BSP would be about 3/8" across thread) try a 6mm bolt in the p'shaft nipple hole-- it should run but be very slack-- 6mm nut should not run onto nipple-- I have spare 1/4" UNF nipples if you want PM your adress-- they are 1/4"UNF x 7mm hex head x 14.65mm o/all-- standard hydrualic fitting-- cold shower req. now.

Been down that route ; can't find enough info to even start a electric mod--so how about moving the handbrake to the top of the tunnel-- this is what I have done-- take Sierra h'brake apart-- handle from toothed mounting-- using a greased splitting chisel (or 2) open-up a gap between the 2 tunnel top tubes to allow re-assembly of h'brake complete-- drill & bolt h'brake thru tubes from underside (I welded 2 extra ears on to make 4 fixings in total ) rest of handbrake gear will fit in tunnel & will be near horizontal. For inner cable adjustment I fabricated a split tube for the plastic outer nuts (1 new 1 from donor) 1 short piece of outer from handbrake end to adjuster tube 2nd piece from adjuster to brake back plate-- other side goes from handbrake direct to backplate-- this give much greater take-up of inner slack; sorry so wordy but can't do computor graphics;hope it helps.

Whoops?!? guilty as charged m'lord-- is no good events being posted in EVENTS 'cos we can't get any feed-back & I certainly would not have paid for a 35-40 head barbie with-out knowing numbers-- any-how what does it matter-- chit-chat is defined as general conversation with no particular aim or goal--so if that's where your browsing expect it to be------idle chit-chat. There's more to life than items in wrong boxes-- if RHOcar members dis-agree please say so & I'll do my best not to mis-post items in the future; rant over normal service will resume as soon as I get my next G & T started. Regards Bob.

Hopefully all sorted now-- "new" bushes reformed from another mower on my WW2 treadle lathe-- other bearings ordered after info recieved above-- if Hoodies can solve all probs why is world in such a **** order-- thanks again.

Will the rad. have a deer detector built-in?

Thanks for replies lads, lead No.1 only has deck bearings-- lead No.2 I have no part nos.-- the Westwood cat. doesn't even mention maintenance for the gearbox-- it's the phosphoros ? plain bearings that have died thru lack of lub.-- 19mm O.D-- 16mmI.D-- 19mm face inc. shoulder. Thanks again for your input guys

Hi all, my build is on hold at the moment 'cos the gearbox on my lawn tractor has shot 2 bearings & the manufacturer went belly-up 2 years ago.I'm looking for a box or parts to fit a Westwood T1200 if any-one in Pepper-land can help it would be much appreciated--the grass ain't waiting. Regards Bob.

Hi Swan, to add to my Electro De-rust Set-up can you tell me what current was flowing through your later (plastic pail) set-up. Regards Bob.

Plenty of rust to play with on these parts--what-- the electro gubbins will work-- slooowly-- probably need at lest a day-- still the chemical req. & hardware are cheap enough provided you have a good battery charger & replacement is not poss.-- cleaned item needs roughning to give key for paint-- best of luck with your build. Regards Bob.

Read a similar thing some where on the web Re: Electrolitic Rust Removal-- it works O.K but very slowly-- DO NOT use stainless as the anode-- the chemical/electrical reaction releases nasty poisons from the stainless-- a piece of scrap mild steel is O.K-- will look-up the article if you want more details.Regards Bob

Hi all, thanks for your THANKS; it was great for us-- especially the 4 hand-built autos-- 3 Seven type & a lovely Hawk Cobra--final head count was 34-- thanks from the Fry clan & partners for turning out-- I won't have to eat burgers & sausages for the next 2 months thanks to you. Regards Bob & Sylvia

If the weather worrys you come in your tin-top--hot-cross buns & coffee on arrival to help you get over the journey--besides which--it's going to be wall to wall sun-shine (with a few showers) tomorrow P.M. hope to see you or else I'll bring your bun down next meet, the 8th April.

We've set-up the tent & the lighting & have just finished laying the first batch of snow (hail ) --see attached pics -- if not coming in open top; bring sledges --see you all tomorrow. Regards Bob & Sylvia.

The picture doesn't match the claim--zero friction = will always continue to spin--ad infor--flippin--nitum

Probably needs some oil on the zip-----

I have a 2b stainless 4 branch manifold as supplied by GBS middle of last year--if what you need will see about cost of carriage--price will be as per GBS less VAT as I'm no longer registered, regards Bob.

You are more than welcome to turn-up on the day un-announced--but if you would like to be fed or wish to camp over we must hear from you by Monday 17th March--Hood family members welcome--lots of space still available--Regards Bob & Sylvia.

The only reason for beating & cussing the top edge over is to hide the rivets--why not leave the top edge upright & level with top of tube--very neatly rivet where panel touches tube (straight line-even spaces from centre ) much easier to do & no risk of mis-bent panel--fibre-glass top sections will cover raw edge but then I like to see the rivets.

would a piece of 2" ally tube suit? It's what I'm using--if so PM me with length req. & address--- just send postage amount back after you recieve tube. Regards Bob.

where do you put the charcoal--more than that is way too technical for hoods.