sylvia.fry2

Hi all; I live within walking distance of Porton Down & insist I'm as normal as any body else who spends countless hours in the work-shop metal bashing a Robin Hood. Must go - pills to take - straight-jacket to clean. Sympathy & good fortune to our farmers; regards Bob.

Hi all, isn't nearly all the rust formed when the car is in the garage?-- that is after it's been out in the rain. So after cleaning make it bone-dry with a de-humidefier & turn it on every time you come back in. Expensive? not if you cost your time & effort in keeping car pristine. Answers on a (small) post-card please. Regards Bob Fry

Hi all, on Ford's rear trailing arms I have replaced RH bracket with 2 ears welded to the "cup" either side of hole thus retaining drainage and getting a better fit to shock eye fixing ; material used 40#3mm mild steel. I have also remade top tube brackets from the top of the Mac struts removed from the front of donor plus welded-on ears as above; cleaned-up these tubes are a sliding fit so use Copperslip or similar on assembly. regards Bob & Mo

Hi all, at last after 18 weeks of E-mails, recorded delivery letters & phone-calls to GBS we have a complete kit with all the parts as described in the sales blurbs & web-site. We had several major issues with wrong or damaged parts -- all now resolved, thanks ? to Richard . Will now stop thowing my toys out the pram & look forward to bashing- no- building- my car; thanks to all those that have helped over the past months; hopefully postings will be only about tech probs in future. Regards Bob & Mo.

Good to see all the grey matter worked ---looks like you could be practising your craft on the guy next to you !!! Nice to see who's behind the dog Regards Bob Fry.

Hi all, at last got the answer to my side panel issue; they are 2 drivers side !!! so sent a picture to GBH -- after a very long------------delay & more E-mails & telecons they sent me another panel - drivers side No. 3 & 1.3mm thick we await the next delivery-- good job we're not building an aircraft. Next gripping installment due Tuesday 17th after tech.richard has phoned with adelivery date. Regards Bob & Mo

Hi all; thanks for all the words & music on rear mounting--- might still go with retaining the rubber --- we'll see if we got a silver jelly only on the road--- don't do fast no more--- brain can't keep up--- so do quick & smooth ---we hope. Best regards Bob & Mo

Hi all; thanks to timswait & longboarder; my reasoning was to cancel-out the vibration which is probably the main cause of the standard chassis bracket failure --do you consider the failure to be down to a weak bracket that will fail in time even with the removal of vibration? Same rubber carrying half the load should be less compliant -- is this over-simplifying the action? I'm good at bicycle & lawn-mower engineering but your site suggests better !! I intend mounting the diff rubber upside-down--new bracket then very easy & short, if too soft --add stiffening cones -- as per mini engine top mounts which we used to good effect 40+ years ago. Yes I'm that old & silly & a fool & --what was the ? Regards Bob & Mo

Hi all, I'm considering mounting my (Ford's) rear sub-frame on the rubber bushes to chassis & diff rubber mount to chassis--so-as to give a smoother less noisey ride & also hopefully avoid the bracket fracture problems as mentioned in the last club mag. I intend to use the Ford Sierra plates & additional metal-work to anchor the inner tube to the chassis plus remove & rebuild the chassis diff mount to accept the rubber diff mount----comments please. Regards Bob & Mo

Mitch, was prop as supplied with kit; when was that; & how many miles done in total? I don't fancy broomm-brooomm BANG. Regards Bob.

Hi all, thanks for replies from ecam & turbo; have bitten the bullet & done the deed as follows:- Throw away the Boy's Own Book"Precision Engineering" & watch the video several times--- no not that one --- the one with the Indian guy & the elephant--- made a beautiful job of panel beating his dream car out of a good tin-top. No; my other panels are not 1.3mm thick--- side panels are 0.7mm & 0.9mm !! --here I need some more help as I seem to have 2 sides the same; not a handed pair. Can some-one supply an on-line picture of the 2 panels showing the differences? Also are the panels supposed to be wider between folds than the chassis members? Regards Bob & Mo (Mo-- my lovely help-mate of the past 40 years)

Hi all, I'm trying to fit the seat back panel as per DVD and comments posted here BUT I can't bend the **** sheet as it's 1.3mm thick -- yes 51 thou -- so it does not move by hand as shown . Also do the brackets for the swinging arms poke through the back panel just above the floor-line? Regards Bob.

Hi, you've collected your beautiful new kit---NOW check very carefully that you have a FULL kit---I collected my 2B+ kit over 2 month's ago and am still waiting for parts (managed to sort-out most problems at Stoneleigh). Richard 1 & 2 and Ian seem very reluctant to answer E-mails & recorded delivery letters. The DVD's recieved & exchanged are almost a complete waste of time & effort. In particular CHECK thickness of panels ( I have in mine--0.7mm--0.9mm & 1.2mm) also the hand of same (I have 2 right-hand may-be left-hand side panels). Regards Bob.