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Peter Bell

RHOCaR Member
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Posts posted by Peter Bell

  1. I think we need something like a SORN to send out with the renewal form/last mag of the year so that at least people who can bother could send it back so you know they will not be rejoining. Perhaps it could be called SLOC, Sorry Leaving Owners Club? I think that 2 months is about the max for an oversight in sending money in.

    Peter

  2. I used a jig saw to cut the holes from the inside, IT IS VERY NOISY! mark it out with masking tape. Be careful about positioning, too far back and they will clash with the pedal box. On that side anyway, (sorry this is a monocoque I am thinking of)

    Peter

  3. Tak, for the DGAV you will need the early manifold also as the flange fixings are different. Have you tried the locost builders site they sell lots of bits too?

    Have you blown out the fuel and airways of the carb as there may just be dirt in there blocking the idle circuit.

    Peter.

  4. and this!

    I don't think that changing this set up will gain very much apart from slowing down the build, it is simple, fairly light weight and you dont have to clean your springs! There is only very slight camber change during suspension movement.

    Regards Peter

    post-3-1082499739.jpg

  5. This is the MK1 S7 suspension, which it sounds as though you may have, with the ford front cross member, track arm, and RH top wishbones. (I hadn't realised how rusty it has got through the winter salt, and me a softy southerner Jim!) This set up works fine, I haven't heard of anyone changing this apart from fitting softer springs, the originals are much too stiff and tie bars which you can see in the pictures. There are plenty of threads about tie bars.

    post-3-1082499345.jpg

  6. Chaps the problem may be although you have the same gearbox and wheel size as the Crapi you haven't got the same axle! check out the diff ratios. I had a spread sheet on the old site you could download and put in the variables to get speed from engine revs. I can post it on if you can't find it.

    Peter

  7. Sound too high to me Lindsay, it depends also where the switch is fitted. Mine is in the bottom of the rad and switches on at around 75° and I don't have problems. I used to have an 85° one but sometimes it seemed as it was too late by the time the fan switched in. My Local Radiator man advised that the returning water temp shouldn't really be any higher than 80°

    Peter

  8. Hi Richard is it possible to post a picture of your front suspension so we know which model you have? As it is still being built (how much more is there to do?) there will be a few people on this site who will be able to advise how to get an earlier model through the SVA

    Peter

  9. Owen the diaphragm is the one for the acceleration pump, if you get a leak there it should mean less fuel getting into the manifold. If there is lots of fuel getting in I would check that the float needle valve is shutting off. I think your other problem may just be the tappets as Jim says.

    Peter

  10. Richard, if you have an S7 it will have wishbones anyway, is it an Exmo? with the flying buttresses and mini mcpherson struts? Some people have chopped these off and fitted wishbones I am sure somebody will be able to help on here, where abouts are you?

    Peter

  11. Steve try your local Halfords, they were selling off a lot of old stock at great prices £30 for the complete clutch set. cheap gasket sets too. If you have a Haynes manual it is not too difficult.

    Peter

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