Dave Ed

I think the early Stoneleigh show was Dragon sports cars or something  like that. Various companies are now springing up offering conversions but they are generally more than the car is worth.  
a couple of companies I’m aware of are:
Ecoclassics https://www.ecoclassics.co.uk/

Electrogenic https://www.electrogenic.co.uk/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAqvaNBhDLARIsAH1Pq519QRSgWuJa_3j9QPkRK_zyLoBFqne6BMmIwjTmXO87CRKBEZh_bSAaAlQmEALw_wcB

Zero EV https://zero-ev.co.uk/?v=79cba1185463

Electric classic cars https://www.electricclassiccars.co.uk/

Electric classic cars had a series on TV called vintage voltage. There was always a 7 type car in the background. An MK I think. 
Eco classics founder originally converted his Westfield 11 and was in one of the Complete Kitcar magazines. 
MEV also dabbled a bit in electrification. 
 

Hope this is of use 

Dave 

My tie bars are adjustable. I’ve got a threaded rose joint that allowed the tie bar to be lengthened or shortened, this allows the TCA and suspension to work together. 

The Dax Rush used square /rectangular headlights. They were based somewhere in Harlow,Essex if I remember correctly. 

No problem. I’ll try and get a picture later so you can see the end result. 

Sparepart. As I moved the distance of the wheel outwards I had to be careful of the clearance of the suspension in the buttress. There’s not a lot of room for manoeuvring so there is no adjustment of caster as far as I’m concerned. 
Camber adjustment is obviously by the TCA and by moving the base of the wheel out it actually aligns the suspension strut to a slightly better angle. I do need to get a better solution for this though and I have some floating bearing top mounts from an escort that needs machining that should sort this eventually. 
Self centering seems quite positive but I need to play with it slightly as my suspension is set way too hard and this could improve it later on.

One thing to note however, was that I had to enlarge the TCA mounting hole on the chassis so once I’d done that, there was no going back.

I did this about 5 years ago. I took a hugely scientific approach to it.
I used a known flat floor, (in my case a hangar) and used my iPhone as it has an inclinometer to measure the angle of the outside of the wheel. I used a tape measure on the forward and rear facing areas of the groves on the tyre to work out the toe in. 
Finally I took a few steps back and looked at it by eye. 
I work upon the assumption that if it looks right it will be better than it was. 

That’s exactly what I’ve done with my Exmo. It makes a decent difference. 
Make sure you get the right TCAs though as there are two types. I think mine were the nut type 

If it doesn’t, at least there are plenty of manifolds in on eBay it reasonable prices. 

I had a vernier pulley that slipped and knocked the timing out and had spitting back through the carbs. 
Check the TDC against the pulley. 

Here’s some pics of mine. Underside and from above. Hopefully they make sense and give a degree of fitment. 
Dave 

Sparepart. 
that’s all good. Send me delivery details and I’ll work it out. 
Dave 

Hi Sparepart. 
Its my understanding that the later carbed cars, before the oval efi ports, which were marked with a P, PP, R or RR were unleaded. 
I don’t really know the history of the head. I purchased it about 4 years ago with the intention of porting and polishing it and improving it with a hotter cam whilst I could still use my existing head on the car. A few weeks after I purchased it an EFI head with FR22 cam became available. 
Whilst in my possession the head has been in dry storage and looks to be in really clean condition. The valves all operate and and don’t stick, but will need lapping in at the very least. 
I'm happy to do a video run through if you’d like and am happy to deliver to Shrivenham. 
 

Dave 

I’ve been clearing out the garage and have an unleaded carb head, stamped with a P, in good condition with std cam ( I believe). The valves all look good albeit a bit dirty. 
It would obviously need a strip down to be sure. 
Advertised here first before it goes on on EBay or FB marketplace. 

Looking for £60 and would prefer collection only due to its size and weight. 
Location is OX18, Oxfordshire 

Free, Just cover the postage. 
PM me your details and I’ll get them packaged up. 

Are these what you’re looking for ? 

I think that 45’s are overkill on a 1.6. A well set up 32/36 or bike carbs would be a better option. 
45’s would normally be used on a well breathed on 2 litre. 
If you’re looking for instant power I’d look at upgrading to a 2.0 pinto first. At least all of the ancillaries will swap right over. 

The strut mod was by Richard Marsh, also known as steamer. He now runs Red7 engineering. He used to be the chairman of RHoCAR a few years ago and is still on here from time to time. His RV8 exmo was very well put together. You should be able to find many of his posts with a search and perseverance. He did my tie bar conversion for me from Mowermans original drawings. Have a search. 
Dave. 

By moving the radiator into the nose cone would allow you to improve the ducting as Brumster has shown and would also allow a neater solution for your hoses. The existing inline housing could be moved to the top hose as you mentioned earlier. 

I’ve bought some grommets from the states. They look like the new from intatrim. 
really fast delivery. 
I haven’t had a chance to fit them yet as I’m away with work. 
try eBay searching for polaris RZR1000h

You can get a metal bracket called a camber corrector that some members make. It will correct this issue. I’m sure that some of the members will be on here soon. 

Have you looked at replacing the rotor arm in the distributor. I had a similar issue on an old Alfa and it was the rotor arm arcing inside the cap and losing the spark. 

The 2B plus had the double wishbone suspension as in your photos. 
The standard 2B was a slightly different design known as a sliding pillar Where the spring was separate from the damper but both were mounted In a near vertical Position beside the front wheel. 
https://nw.rhocar.org/identification.htm

Looks like it’s be to me. 
you can see the slim line tunnel, alligator bonnet, the round tube on the floor. 
suspension looks correct. 

I’m exactly the same. I got the kit MOTd last month ( first time in 2 and a half years) and had to wait a week for the start of June so I didn’t lose a months tax 

Yeah it’s starting to get expensive. 
For the limited miles that I’m doing the costs ramp up.