Dave Ed

I think between 10-12 is the norm.

A systematic check of the earth cables then.

I had an issue a few years ago where my starter motor was slow to turn but all my earths were fine. I replaced the starter and it fixed the problem. This was on my pinto and was an ancient starter.

It’s a simple enough solution.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F291572757928 theres always this. It’ll need an air feed like; https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F360677980092 theres always a way to “ hoodie” it

I went to my local motor factors when I had a similar issue with my exmo. Just took a photo of any cast markings or numbers from the old unit and we found a suitable replacement within minutes.

If you don’t expect to be driving in the rain constantly then you done need such a large washer bottle. Car builder solutions and other vendors do various style of bottles and bags that will suffice.

Have you checked to see if the fuel pump is working properly. If there is an inline filter before the carb is it blocked or letting in air.

I believe that there are a couple of different length dip sticks but the big thing is the last the max mark should sit at the same height. You don’t want the crank frothing up the oil. If you’ve hydro dipped the sump then you can work our depth of the dipstick max level against the bottom level of the sump as the sump is removed.

There’s a Westfield wiring loom on eBay that might be a good solution for you. You’d have to adapt it for the Sierra terminations and possibly extend some cables. Item no 143348898855

Sellers name is shopbhp on eBay

The exmo has a tuned redtop in it. The owner was selling it separately for about 4K

This looks like a sub-k that has had a wishbone conversation. You might find it’s a one off so could be out of luck. Have you tried contacting the previous owner?

The chassis no is dealers choice. Provided it meets the vosa directives. you could see if the seller has any build documentation which might show the original buttresses.

It could well be an Exmo. It’s a monocoque chassis and from pictures 9 onwards it looks like the front end buttresses have been cut off and a double wishbone suspension has been fitted. Check that there’s sufficient strengthening on the chassis.

So I’ve just fitted led rear bulbs to my kit. Now the lights look more orange than red. Could this be an mot issue?

The V5 should say RobinHood 2B or similar NOT Sierra.

I remember watching it with a friend who was a submariner who laughed all the way through the film.

My cat used to live in the car unbeknownst to me. Never had a mouse problem.

Didn’t some earlier cars use metro steering racks ?

Same as last year, sort the things I wanted to do 15 months ago. But due to work I’ll be doing it in March.

I think GBS or kitspares sell a floor strengthening plate for the 2B. Its quite pricey against a few pieces of angle iron.

I had a load of spitting back through the carb after having not run the car for about a year. It turns out the vernier pulley has moved whilst starting and the timing was way out. Check all your alignment marks. Tdc and cam pulley. Check your firing order. Dizzy and rotor alignment for firing on 1 at tdc.

Im paying close to a grand for the 3 year extended warranty on my 3yr s-max Thats from Hartwell Ford in Kidlington. I agree with Mark that there are small print clauses and a friend of mine got stung on a new engine for his T5 van but Id sooner have it. Or rather the wife would sooner have it

Pm sent to you.