richyb66

Got my Gaz shocks from Dampertech after seeing good reports on here. I spoke to Dave there and gave him all the car details and he took it from there. First class service. http://www.dampertech.co.uk/contact.html

Why not use a LT77 gearbox with a LDV400 / SD1 2 litre / Sherpa 2.0 diesel bellhousing, flywheel and adaptor plate. Fits straight onto a T series apparently but on the T series turbo you do have to move the starter motor to the drivers side and cut a relief in the bellhousing. The would at least aleviate the alignment issues that some have has with the Superspec MT75 setup. There's some photos here of the gearbox etc, just ignore the fact that he's putting it in an MGB http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/upgrades4mgs/Engines/fitting_t_series_turbo.htm

Basically it's a big farm shop. They've got all sorts of dirrerent food and drinj for sale there (to take away) and they're got a restaurant if you want to dine in. They also do snack type food and drinks if you want something while you're hanging around. http://www.beckettsfarm.co.uk/ According to their website, the meeting on 28th is between 11am and 3pm.

It's on the A435 Alcester Road at Wythall. Head North off the M42 at J3 towards Birmingham centre and it's on the left hand side immediately before the first roundabout (about a mile along the A435 dual carriageway). MAP LINK HERE

It won't be a problem - people with no wiring knowledge have used these without struggling.. The Premier loom is top quality and the instructions are easy to follow. You need to identify which of the 3 different type column stalks you're using but other than that it's straightforward. If possible, before you start, check that all your switches work correctly beforehand (ignition, lights, wipers etc) with the old loom. That way if something doesn't work with the new loom you'll know it's either the loom or a connection problem and not the switch. Nothing more annoying than looking for faults in the wiring and finding out it's actually a dodgy switch. My loom had incorrect rear fog lamp wiring for IVA (but would have been ok for SVA) but as you're replacing an existing loom I don't suppose this will matter.

Looks like a lightweight

Quite possibly, but an easier option might be to use the exhaust manifold off an Escort CVH turbo as the port spacings are the same on a CVH as the Zetec. Unfortunately the stud spacings are different but it's possible to use a gasket as a template and drill and tap new holes with a pillar drill.

I think he'd just be happy to get it running for now, he can worry about tidying it up later.

It's not important, as long as the crank is at TDC and valves 1 and 2 are closed the rotor arm can be pointing anywhere but this will be firing plug lead 1. Take out spark plug number 1 and turn the engine over by hand while you've got a finger over the plug hole. You'll feel the compression as you turn the engine round towards TDC, stop turning when the TDC mark on the crank pulley lines up with the pointer (deepest groove on the left). Slacken off the distributor clamp bolt a bit so it can be turned by hand (but not too loose) and turn the dizzy so that the centre of the metal on the rotor arm points towards the centre of one of the plug connectors on the cap - this should be close enough to get it going with a bit of tweaking. Mark the dizzy body relative to something fixed on the engine block with a marker pen or some tipp-ex, this is your starting position and you might want to return to it later. Fit the plug leads starting with number one, as you said, firing order is 1, 3, 4, 2 and the distributor turns clockwise. The ignition timing won't be bang on so you'll probably have to advance it a little to get it going so if you've got an attractive assistant, get them to crank the engine while you turn the distributor body very slightly anti-clockwise. You don't need to turn it a lot as you only need about 8 degrees of advance. If like me you don't have an assistant you'll have to reach over the engine and turn the dizzy with your right hand while you operate the key with your left. The trick is to turn the dizzy very slightly as you are cranking. If it does start, you can then just tweak the dizzy to get the idle as smooth as you can and then set it properlyu with a timing light later. The cold start on ZX6 carbs should be a long sliding bar like this:

While a few non-Ford engines and gearboxes can and are used, it doesn't make much sense using non Sierra components for the suspension. The kits are designed with these parts in mind and using something different will just create a load of extra work for no real gain. The kits can be taxing enough to build even when completely Sierra based so there's probably a lot to be said to sticking to this formula at least to get the thing on the road and then make any changes later. There is a case that putting in your preferred engine from the word go is easier but then there's also a greater chance you'll hit snags, get bored and never get it finished. Plenty of kits end up as un-finished projects, if you stick with a tried and tested combination there will always be someone on here who can help when you hit some snags (which you will). Remember also that the Sierra also has plenty of different chassis options like rear discs, lsd's, bigger front discs - most of which are bolt on changes should you wish to upgrade later. Stick with a tried and tested conbination to start with, something that'll pass IVA, not have a Q plate and will actually get on the road. If you're still interested, post up your location, get to a local meet and see some people in your area. Seeing other cars give me extra enthusiasm to get mine finished and it's nice to discuss issues with like minded people. (all this free advise from the man who's kit progress is a little slow to say the least).

Directions here: http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=28475&view=findpost&p=216533

http://nw.rhocar.org/ http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/ http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/ http://www.premierwiring.co.uk/ http://www.colinusher.info/Robin%20Hood/index.html http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/ http://www.burtonpower.com/Default.aspx

... must type faster!!!

That's because you're only registered on the forum i.e a forum member and not a RHOCaR club member. The rules for advertising are pretty clear and are laid out here right at the top of the For Sale section: http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showforum=17 There have to be some benefits that are excluse to club members otherwise no-one would bother to join. Hope this clear up any misunderstanding.

Might not be a real girl either!

CV7 7HL http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=CV7+7HL&sll=52.429438,-1.789656&sspn=0.100481,0.597382&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Coventry,+West+Midlands+CV7+7HL,+United+Kingdom&z=15 Entrance to pub car park is off the A452 Chester Road heading North 50 yards from the island

No, Wednesday 27th. It's the last Wednesday of every month (except December when we don't have a meeting)

Chris, I've got some pdf files of the Premier loom instructions if you want them sent through. I would pm them but the files are too big to attach - I can e-mail them to you if you pm me.They're marked up to suit my type of lighting switches but are still easily readable. You don't get a wiring diagram but it's easy to follow without one and no real need to start referring to the Sierra diagrams. The only downside of no wiring diagram can be troubleshooting if you have any glitches - not a problem in my case but Steve did rip some hair out on his. That said, his problems were down to his switches, nothing to do with the loom itself. The Premier loom is a very good product, only problems on mine were one wire was a different colour to what the sheets said but it was easily spotted and ammended on the instructions and the fog lamp wiring won't pass IVA because the fog lamp would operate on sidelights, not just Main/dip beam. This can be corrected fairly easily using a couple of diodes. Rich.

I had the same thing when I replaced the hub bearings on mine. Once the nut was tight you pretty well couldn't turn the hub. I just backed the nut off until the hub turned freely and left it at that. The nuts were nyloc and are left and right handed so they're not going to come loose. The torque figure quoted in the Haynes manual seems very high given that the bearings are taper roller and there's no spaces between the inner races to stop them from cruching down onto the outer race. I assume that the nut should torque down onto the splined washer which in turn rests on the shoulder of the hub shaft - thereby pre-setting the bearing end float but obviously this isn't actually the case and even if it did actually work, you wouldn't have the benefit of adjusting the end float to compensated for either wear or manufacturing tolerances.

Rover 800 bonnet gas strut has a lock built in to it. Open the bonnet fully and then the strut closes a bit and locks solid. Raise bonnet slightly to disengage the internal lock and close as normal. Part number is BKK41003EVA and cost is about £12 new although new ones will probably have too much pressure in them. Probably better to get second hand ones, the locking mech will still keep the bonnet open even if they're a little tired. More here http://www.cargasstruts.co.uk/car_boot_bonnet_gas_struts.php/cPath/1/products_id/322?osCsid=4781536748289dc3deca134767723107

That should have read Pin 15 goes to BLACK (HLAMP FLASH) on Premier harness Pin 56A goes to BROWN/WHITE (MAIN BEAM RELAY) Pin 56B goes to BROWN/YELLOW (DIP BEAM RELAY) Pin 56 goes to BROWN/BLACK (+VE FEED FROM 56 ON OTHER STALK) and Pin 54 goes to BLACK/RED (SWITCHED +VE SUPPLY) Pin R goes to BLACK/GREEN (RH INDICATORS) Pin H30 goes to RED/BLUE (PERMANENT +VE) Pin 49 goes to BLACK/YELLOW (FLASHER RELAY INPUT) Pin L goes to BLACK/WHITE (LH INDICATORS) Pin 49A goes to WHITE BLACK (FLASHER RELAY OUTPUT) Armed with this you could check the continuity of the switches if you disconnect all the connectors and use a tester to test out the pairs of connections for each switch operation e.g Left or Right indicator operated - pins 54 and 49 connected Left indicator operated - pins 49A and L connected Right indicator operated - Pins 49A and R connected Dip Beam on on - pins 56 and 56B connected Main Beam on - pins 56 and 56A connected Side Lights on - pins 30 and 58 connected etc. Suggest removing switches from the column to make identifying the pins and getting to them a bit easier must learn to type faster.

Hi Steve, what forum post did that chart come from - are you sure that's for the Premier loom and not Vicky Green? I got a blue sheet with my Premier loom which said which wire went where and it all worked fine - my switch was BG87 though. I've just had a look at the chart and for the BG83 switch the wiring should be as follows: Indicator / Dip Switch Small Connector Pin 15 goes to BLACK (EARTH) on Premier harness Pin 56A goes to BROWN/WHITE (MAIN BEAM RELAY) Pin 56B goes to BROWN/YELLOW (DIP BEAM RELAY) Pin 56 goes to BROWN/BLACK (EARTH FEED 56 ON OTHER STALK) Indicator / Dip Switch Big Connector Pin 54 goes to BLACK/RED (SWITCHED +VE SUPPLY) Pin R goes to BLACK/GREEN (RH INDICATORS) Pin H30 goes to RED/BLUE (PERMANENT +VE) Pin 49 goes to BLACK/YELLOW (FLASHER RELAY) Pin L goes to BLACK/WHITE (LH INDICATORS) Pin 49A goes to WHITE BLACK (FLASHER RELAY) If you need copies of any of the Premier wiring sheets let me know and I'll e-mail them to you. Rich.

You'd probably need grease - she's nearly 62 now.

OK, no problem.

Tim, I replaced all 16 on mine because I had my wishbones powdercoated but the bushes had already been fitted and I damaged some if them getting them out. If you need some in a hurry for a re-test I can sort out a few of the better old ones and drop them in the post foc.