richyb66

Can you identify this car? I already know what it is.

The tamper circuit is normally two wires within the wiring to a sensor that are connected together at the sensor end and connected to the control panel at the other end. This forms a continuous loop of wire - if it gets broken anywhere (e.g. by being cut) the circuit becomes open and the tamper warning is triggered. If you can see where the wiring is connected in the control panel you should be able to see the connection for the tamper circuit. Check the connections at the control panel and are good, similarly also check the linked ends of the tamper circuit at each sensor to make sure they are ok. Again, external bell boxes also usually have a tamper circuit - this would be a more likely cause of problems as it's outside so succeptable to the damp. Worth getting up on a ladder and giving the bell box cover a shake and seeing of that sets the tamper off - is the fault happening in windy weather? If all these check out ok then you need to look for signs of physical damage to the wiring somewhere between the sensor and the control panel. This could be wiring run under carpets, trapped by furniture, caught in doors, moving floorboards etc. Just a case of following the wires back from the sensor and visually checking anywhere you can see the wiring. Final solution if the fault persists and you can't find it would be to disconnect the tamper circuit at the control panel, bridge the control panel tamper connections out with a small link wire and hope you don't have a burglar with wire cutters! I'm not an alarm engineer but I hope this helps. I'm also not a gynacologist but I'm willing to have a look if asked - no over 25's though please

Jess, I'm in Wales most weekends, would early Friday afternoon be any use - after I finish work before we set off. Would be sometime after 12-30? Next weekend I'm at home in Tamworth won't be for a couple of weeks. Rich.

Jess, could be the coolant temperature sensor - normally the VAG ones have two sensors in a single unit, one does the gauge and the other feeds the ECU. I had one go on my Audi which made cold starting a bit difficult. If it packs up completely it should store a fault code but might not necessarily bring on the check engine warning light. I've got VAGCOM on my laptop if you want me to check for any fault codes which does pretty well what the dealer software does, probably worth a try as even if it tells you nothing at least it won't have cost you. Rich.

There's 2 versions, the Flush (which is) and the Plus Flus (which isn't quite) - flush that is. Both look like they should be OK but if you go here: http://www.aerocatch.com/category_sublist....mp;procatid=160 you can download detail drawings of the actual parts.

Post up a picture of the fusebox - that will help identify whether the loom is based on a donor car loom, is a bought loom or something someone has put together themself.

Graham, I've got the Premier instructions in pdf format. There's no wiring diagram as such, just written instructions. pm me an e-mail address and I'll send them through. Rich.

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info....oducts_id=11855 Get you wallet out then Gaz!

Would this do - they don't come much cheaper than this but it probably need some work too http://community.rhocar.org/index.php?show...c=24418&hl= Might be worth just swapping in a runner for now then strip and rebuild yours. Update your details to show your location - someome may be nearby who can help.

I don't know about the box, but the flat steel strip at B & Q is cr@p quality, if you try and bend it, it cracks and it's got some sort of varnish on it (presumably to stop it rusting) - hideously expensive too. Apart from that I can thoroughly recommend it !!!

As a start, can't you bolt the lower ball joint underneath the wishbone rather than on top. Also not a great help now but the lower wishbone mounting channel looks like it would have been better off fitted on top of the chassis tubes rather than underneath which would allow the wishbones to angle down at normal ride height, the damper to be closer to the right length and would save all the packers under the rack. How thick is the ball joint mounting plate in the lower wishbone - I'd be concerned that it might bend further if you hit a pot hole without having some webs welded across the folded part.

Yep, I was there at the time too. Found it a bit questionable myself as the mudguard turns with the wheel which would mean that if the wheel was on full lock one way or the other, the repeater wouldn't be visible from the rear between the 5 degree and 60 degree outboard angles. The Zero on the stand at the show had the lamp in the outboard vertical surface of the mudguards, maybe on the top of the mudguard at the outboard edge would be better as it would still (possibly) be visible as the wheel turned but would need to have enough protrusion for the light to be visible - which would probably make it look cr@p. The only possible place that would seem to meet the wording of the regulation would be somewhere fixed that's spaced out from the side panel so the the lamp is within 400mm of the side, like something on an ugly stalk or fitting into the side mirrors.

Cheers Gaz.

Gaz, I'm probably going to need a pair too - I've got a pair in stainless already but they're about 5mm thick. I can't see how they could possibly be bent to match the shape of the scuttle when they're so thick, I'd have thought that 3mm stainless would be more than thick enough but would be interested to see what thickness others have used. Rich.

Jess, I gave a carb balancer foc to Joel as he was in need of one at the time and I had one gathering dust- drop him a pm and see if he'll loan it to you as a fellow area member, I'm sure he won't have a problem with that. Maybe he can bring it to the meet on Wednesday? Rich.

Yes, I welded some plates on the end of the box section that were vertical but then the top edge rolled round to match the profile of the chassis tube and welded all round the plates. I suppose you could make up a similar assembly of crossmembers and then bolt them in place but as my chassis is just plain stainless, welding seemed the quicked option.

I didn't want to have anything sticking down under the car, so I've used 25 x 25 box running across the car in 2 places under the seat. Obviously this would bend once it's got 2 seats and a couple of bums on top of it so I then boxed this back up to the tunnel top tubes either side of the prop. I also ran a couple more pieces longitudinally between the 2 cross pieces to stiffen it all up. The disadvantage is that it does make the bottom of the tunnel quite wide but the whole thing is very strong, the prop is enclosed by something substantial should that fail (like it no doubt will) and in the corner between the vertical piece and the longitudinal piece, I've fabricated a substantial mount for the inner seatbelt bolt. It's all stainless and welded in place - and the floor sheet is rivetted on underneath. It's a but difficult to describe but if you look here http://www.oldschoolannexe.com/photos/inde...p?album=%2F0000 and see photos 16 to 19, 26 to 29 and 31 to 34 it might make a bit more sense.

I won't be there as I'm away for the week but thought I'd ask for clarification for some of the newer visitors to the forum that are local - just in case they decided to pop along.

Presumably that's Wednesday week, 30th September and not this Wednesday?

Can I have just the lamps (not the chrome rings) please. I'll be there Sunday.

Put the gearbox in gear to stop the output shaft turning. Then it's just a case of jiggling and rotating the propshaft until it catches on the splines and then push it home.

WOW! Before I start to take the p*** and ask them some silly questions - I need to know if it's anyone on here.

How about Jess - his Zero is very well put together, a real credit to his efforts. He's usually at the monthly meet on the last Wednesday of the month at the Malt Shovel Pub on the A45 / A452 island near the NEC (shameless meeting plug!!)

A bit of light reading for anyone with an interest. http://www.aronline.co.uk/tonistoryf.htm

I was planning on going as I'm in the Midlands that weekend but if its 25 quid to get in I'll give it a miss and have a day in the garage instead.