nigelt

Been away for a bit...

Yes on closer inspection of the photo I see the corded wire is not connecting to the casing..

Still should only be a 12v pulse to drive it! It is on mine.

Nige

The wire that looks like a bit of nylon cord is the ground wire. The Green wire goes to the coil - the low voltage side of course. and the Red/White wire is the illumination.

Nige

Janis,

Do you have a heater matrix plumbed in?

Reson I ask, is that the heater matrix bypasses the 'stat and I found that when I put a 'stat in, the water flowed round the matrix and not round the engine. I had to restrict the flow to the heater matrix.

All very strange as it is all plumbed in correctly.

Nige

Are you sure you don't have a blown head gasket? Because I had something similar with my car. I ran it without a thermostat for quite some time then once I put the stat in, the car seemed to keep overheating and water spraying out of Rad/overflow. Turned out that I had a blown gasket and it was just coincedence that It became noticeable when the stat went in.

Nige

Had this problem manya time... Just drill the heads off and replace them afterwards. The problem comes from the screw being stuck and so people use an impact driver. However, the screw is usually a crosshead or pozidrive (might have spelt that wrong) and the bit in the impact driver is a philips, ( a different shape altogther), and this is only good for one thing... rounding off the screwhead...:-)

Nige

Are you sure they are running left to right.... mine are running right to left.... I must have put 'em on wrong :-)

Nige

Once you have set the ride height, you may well find that the front wings no longer touch the head lights. But they will when you're on full lock and go over a bump! So take that into consideration as well. I still had to fit restrictors to the steering rack.

Nige

It looks like you used a hole cutter to make this, so what I might be inclined to do, would be to:

Fix some wood behind the hole that you have cut. this will act as stable material to start new hole.

Now cut the same size hole, in the right place, this will of course overlap the original hole.

The wasted piece from this cut can then be rotated round to act as the infill. obviously it will be thinner by the width of the cutting blade, but might be easier to use than filling in the entire hole.

If that makes no sense I could try and add some drawings..

Nige

Hi Jonny,

There are two types of Smiths gauges, moving coil and moving magnet. Or put another way, simple and not so simple. The simple ones just need a regulated voltage on the B terminal and then the other terminal goes to the sender. The not so simple ones need a regulated voltage on the B terminal and the body of the gauge wired to earth. (This biases the meter and stops the needle flopping about). The other terminal then goes to the sender. If your gauge is of this type and you don't connect the body to earth then you will get wild readings. However, as mentioned already if the sender and gauge don't match you won't very good readings.

Nige

I had the same problem with the plough and the rolling road. I jacked up the car, then put another under the plough and then lowered the car down slowly. I was able to bend the plough up by about 3 inches with no adverse effect to the engine mounts etc.

Nige

Hi Guys,

I'm a little confused by the carb setup on the 2B. I have fitted a DGAV 32/36 and tuned it as per various web sites and threads on here. The engine idles fine, but I'm convinced the engine is running rich by the exhaust being soot black after a decent runabout and the smell of un-burnt fuel. Checking the plugs however show that it is all fine. My question is, does the mixture screw only affect the idle and should I look to changing the jets? Or am I just paranoid?

Cheers

Nige

Sounds like the fuel gauge is not wired correctly to the sender, and that it is in fact wired to ground. You could prove that you have something on the sender by measuring the voltage across it with the ignition on. If there are no volts then its not wired to the gauge.

What gauges do you have for the temperature are the smiths?

Nige

This might help you if it is a MX5 stalk. It would appear that a great deal of the switching is done from the stalk and only one relay for headlights and main beam. Cluster lights are driven from the LG (Light Green wire) via a second relay. So your wiring maybe shorting out through the stalk.

Nige

Sounds like you may have something wired wrongly to the relays for the side/dipped headlights. In other words when the relay for the side/dip is on it is also connecting the main beams circuit to ground, so that when you then try turning on the main beams the live feed is feeding to ground through the side/dip relay. this would be why the volts drop and then causes the chatter. A quick test (if you can) would be to disconnect the relay for the side/dip beams. Then turn them on from the stalk, as if they were connected and try the main beams again. Hope that makes some sense. However, as Nigel(Longboarder) says they should be fused and so this should blow.

Nige

When you say convoluted tube. where are people getting this from? internet/local garden centre that sell fishponds etc? before I go on a search around the net?

Cheers

Nige

You might find that it needs servicing, such as the power valve maybe broken. Or it will need to be re-jetted. I used these guys to fix and recondition mine.

http://www.dellorto....rtsectionID=113

Nige

I took a chart with me to the IVA, ( can find a few on the internet) that showed the strengths of the bolts, just in case I was question with regard to this. However, it was never questioned.

Nige

Hi Jaimo,

When you connect the sender wire to earth/chassis, (if you haven't done this already), try grounding it against the body of the temp sender. This will instantly prove whether or not the sender is grounded, or insulated from the chassis in some way. If the gauge moves when doing this, then it is probably just a mismatch. If not then you need to look at why the sender is insulated.

Nige

If you are putting it through with the windscreen as I did you must make sure it has the right markings. On the passenger side where it has the kite mark and BS standards, E numbers. There MUST be either a | or a || to indicate toughened or Laminated. if this line or lines are not there they will fail it.

I had my Windscreen made by Pilkingtons. I found a big spread in one of the kit car magazines a couple of years ago on how Pilkingtons make the windscreens for loads of cars and kit cars. All I had to do was draw round the old Glass so they had a template to work with and post it to them. The man you want to contact is Peter Swann to get the ball rolling. Peter.Swann@nsg.com

Mine was for the 2B so they have the plans for that if anyone else needs one. (Laminated not toughened).

Nige

I maybe wrong here, but I think you will find they are not a direct replacement. They are charged in a completely different way. So unless there is some additional module that can be purchased and fitted, I don't think it will work.

Nige

I was told by my examiner that the near side mirror is not required if the centre mirror covers the correct field of view. If this is not the case then the nearside mirror is required. Of course unless you can simulate the setup they have for testing, how would you know?

Nige

More beers!

Fantastic..

Can I just clarify this then..

If I come along in the kit car, I just turn up and try and find a space at the RH stand? (not camping that is.

Or do I need to book a space etc...?

Only ever come along in the tin top before.

Nige