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Great Scott!!

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About Great Scott!!

  • Rank
    Builder
  • Birthday 05/23/1972

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    2B
  • Full name
    Scott

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Location
    Nottingham
  1. I'm sure daren will bring you a stick of rock back stuart or I could post you the old bearings Always a pleasure helping a fellow builder out, Hope you enjoy your holiday daren and if anyone else needs advice on gearboxes or differentials you can email me: scottsgearboxes@fsmail.net or ring me on the number on the link above. Scott
  2. No problem m8 all this trouble just over a seal! and I don't need to remind you to lightly grease the new seal before fitting do I regards scott
  3. Hi Ant If you do decide to fit a new seal with the old prop, once you have levered the old seal out see if you can get a line of sight to see the bush use a bright torch and see if it looks scored or chewed. The mainshaft(splined bit) isnt supported at the propshaft end other than the bush just behind the seal so when the prop is removed you will get alot of up & down side to side play this is standard. One last thing if you do try the old prop I would lightly emery scored part to take the roughness off, might give the new seal a chance. regards scott
  4. Hi ant Can you remember what condition the doner prop was like when you took it off? did it also have scoring on it? I have read elsewhere you said you had problems fitting it and was tight on your intial build up. I think its worth a phone call to richard to see if he will sell you a new prop, i have always found him helpful, if thats a no go then theres a company in nottingham called wilsons driveshafts they recondition them and balance them if you need their number i'll dig it out on monday its in the works phonebook. Also if you wish to keep your gearbox I have almost certainly have a tail housing for a type nine with a good bush, so if you get your gearbox out I can change the housing in about 10 mins while you wait if your interested let me know. regards scott
  5. Hi Ant Just seen this post Right the first thing is no your prop should definatly not have a groove like that and looking closely at your pic I would say that the bush in the back of your box is worn out hence the pick up marks on the prop(looks like its had a lot of friction I can see discolouration, should be shiny silver) and the oil leak! You obviously need a new prop or get the end changed once you got a new one then offer it into the back of the box and what your looking for is up and down, side to side play if theres lots of play the bush is us, now the bad news is changing the bush is a pig of a job with the box on the bench i doubt very much..infact i'd go so far to say its impossible to change bush in the car,and next bit of bad news(sorry) is i don't think you can buy the bush from fords maybe quicker and easier to just find another gearbox. One last thing it does not matter how far the seal goes into the box because the case has a lip so the seal will only go so far and stop and the prop should enter the box plenty to seal. hope this helps regards scott
  6. terry the oval tin plate is like that by design and the reason for the hole is if the oil does get past selector rail it drains out of that hole onto the road rather than filling up the gear lever hole. oh and make sure the bottom of the gear stick has ample grease to stop the nylon piece on the box from wearing this a very common fault. ant if you can get the lid off the box you can drill a 2mm hole anywhere on that dome it doesnt matter aslong its on the dome its shielded from under neath to stop the oil being thrown out the top of the box.
  7. Great Scott!!

    Screen Washer

    Why not fit it anyway with extended pipe to the driver and fill it up with your favourite beverage then squirt for instant refreshment, great for those long journeys seriously though no windscreen = no need for washers really
  8. Hi just thought i'dput my 2p's worth in its pointless drilling any holes near the gearlever because the selector rail which the gearlever connects to has a seal on that rail which stops your gearlever hole from filling up with oil as terry has already stated the breather is a small hole on the rectangular lid on top of the box so if you have painted it the chances are its block so get yourself a safty pin and prod it until its clear this could be very tric ky in the 2B because it sits directly underneath your heater,fusebox or whatever.. you might find by just unblocking this hole all your oil leaks will disapear and no need to change the seal if you do have to change the seal use a small flat bladed screwdriver and dig into the seal and lever out then tap new one in with a deep socket of appropiate size. hope thise helps
  9. Iain you could try finding a spline bit (12 sided) and hammer that in until its solid then warm the surrounding area with a hotair gun not a blow torch then crack it undone with a big bar. or failing that you could fill it through the breather pipe on top, if you drain the diff completely then measure out the amount of oil haynes recommends you will find a 500ml squeezy bottle fits in the breather pipe normally.
  10. Phil put auto fluid in your box and ep80 in the diff
  11. thanks chaps all sorted i now have light!!
  12. hi all i need some help with the headlight wiring i have 4 wires going to n/s headlamp and 5 going to the o/s headlamp, the 5th wire is blue & green, the haynes manual tells me this wire comes from the relay but question is where do i connect it up at the headlamp? iv'e thrown the old sierra lights all i have left is the black plastic connector on the loom so this blue & green wire is puzzling me. the donor was 1989 2.0 sierra any help would be greatly appreciated
  13. ahh Gearboxes thats my thing ive been reconditioning them for 15 years so any info ring me daytime on Nottingham 0115 9821 942 and ask for scott Boggie u say your box crunches upto 2nd, so i take it thats the only fault? or is it noisey aswell? also what oil u running in it? we dont recon many type 9's anymore but when we did we always used auto transmission fluid never hypoid it was just to thick and made them crunch especially when cold. with regard to parts i'm pretty sure i can get everything for them still and if i was going to fully recon one i think i could keep the cost down to £200 any questions just ask
  14. As far as i'm aware there wasnt a v6 2 wheel drive in mt75 form i'm pretty sure they were all 4x4 and if there was finding one will be like rocking horse s**t go for a type 9 out of a capri or granada.
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