fry61

Hi all, build is progressing well-- hope someone can supply the following--Ford Sierra dash hot air outlet--passenger side--number on plastic is--87(year?)BGA018B08BA--G82520--4 measures 3" x4" on face sorry no can do picture, regards Bob.

Dave, try giving CHARLIE a P.M he's our area chief ( Hants & Dorset) we meet at Cadnam every month, regards Bob --near Salisbury.

Pidgeons in the intake?

Famous Grouse no-doubt !!!

Did you get the ally tube for your petrol tank O.K

Sorry!! it MAY be able to pull your trailer & car but legally I don't think it's anywhere heavy enough-- should be a note on Fiesta's chassis plate giving max. train weight -- that is car + trailer + load; somebody with much greater knowledge will prob. be along in a moment.

Kleighton, P.M your name & full postal address plus length of ally tube & it will be on it's way--cost??--a bacon butty should we ever trip over each other.Regards Bob.

ETB do rising resistance & falling resistance fuel gauges.

Will you be selling your EFI & fuel pump? If so details & prices please,regards Bob.

The proper run for vehicles before 1904 is the first Sunday of November !!! did it for a couple of years in a steam car -- brilliant fun-- the run for kit cars was earlier this year I think in July, so look out for next year I'm afaid.

2" ally tube into new Sierra tank rubber washer (the donor one will be hardened) fuel quality flexy hose to fuel filler cap in top surface of boot; & yes a small hole in the ally just below the rubber ring is an absolute must to vent the air as you fill up; much quicker than Richard's video plan.

Do you know if the 1.8CVH engine is the same? If so can send you rod or both pump & rod. Regards Bob.

Florin=2 old shillings=10p---AKA---2 Bob=2b Metal (bashing) Works. Although not a real business name have used it for the past 30 odd years & seemed very appropriate for present project. Regards Bob Fry.

What size hole do you need? An industrial hole-saw will cut a fairly neat hole if you drill a pilot centre hole--THEN change the hole-saw pilot to a plain rod(both should be 1/4") this will stop the hole-saw wandering--if they're big enough CBS do some ally air intake tubes with rolled edges to finish off the raw edge left by the saw.

THere are straight flutted(fluted?) extractors available--much better than the carbon steel left-hand thread tapered jobs which tend to expand the broken stud prior to any anti-clockwise movement. They are listed in RS book No.3 Stock Code423-6685 @ £8.00 + VAT (April 2005) will look-up the phone no. if this is of any help.

Make the wire run as short as poss. between battery & spots-- makes no difference where relay is provided it's between batt. & first spot or wire each spot back to relay--which-ever way; shorter is better. Regards Bob.

See Mini Spots posting above.

If you want your lights to be BRILLIANT rather than glow a relay is a must to reduce the volt-drop caused by long cable runs in thin wire & high resistance switch contacts, make the wiring distance between battery & lamps as short as possible using 4mm wire.

How about the engine steady bush (for Mini) --2 rubber bushes & 2 metal cones to make a very tight fit in the eye? What size is the zeemer eye you're trying to fill--there's a lathe in my shop if you need to modify, regards Bob Fry.

This is probably not much help--I'm converting a 1.8CVH to EFI--using 1600 Escort complete inlet & electrics--so far have only made-up an adaptor plate in 6mm ally--blue-printed it to head & cut & filed then blue-printed other side of plate to manifold--cut,filed etc. & new gaskets cut--have a mate coming over Weds. to start the tech stuff, will post more if you're interested. PS Not going for more power only looking for reliability!!

M12 x 1.5 studding may be very difficult to find--may I suggest boring out an old wheel nut & get it welded to standard 12mm stud--then use M12 nyloc nut on inside of boot--makes it harder to steal your wheel--provided your boot locks O.K

Thanks Nigel, again I'm going the Ford route--solid copper to rear of body-shell--flexy to swinging arm then solid to backplate

And coming from the other direction------I've fitted the torque tube & the diff rubber mount exactly as Mr. Ford designed it--it worked for all Sierra's inc. high horse-power models so why not in a lighter weight seven style 2 seater? crash helmet on & waiting for incoming-*-*-*

Grizzly, is the failed ball-joint as supplied with the bottom wish-bone or a replacement after a previous failure? looks like your present failure was running dry & wore it's way thru the cup, use to be a Mini problem back in my youth (40+ years ago)

Tim, do you recon I've got my front & rear springs arse about face? What clearance have you got to underside of side panel-- at front--at rear of panel;cheers for your info. Reagrds Bob.