Foz

Might be a silly question but are you sure that your new battery is fully charged ?

Welcome to you all, I'm sure you'll find something useful within the club. Ask those questions and we'll help if we can. Hopefully see you at some of the shows or meets. Steve

Just had a quick look - hopefully get over for some of the Sunday shows later in the year (assuming I get the car back together!).

I'd do a compression test first to give you an idea of what might be wrong. If it's been standing for a while it might just be stuck rings. If so you can try taking the plugs out and giving it a squirt of of WD40 or similar in each cylinder. Leave it to soak for a day and try again. Steve

I believe that this was sold last year.

I know what you're saying, it can take some time and patience to get a sensor set up calibrated accurately, but once it's done I would say that it should be accurate and more consistent than GPS. My cobra speedo is quite accurate but I need to look over to the left & down to read it, so I have a small digital GPS speedo on top of the dash which is much easier to read with a quick glance. The trouble with the GPS one is that it often loses the signal around the city (as do our satnavs) and it then shows the last known speed, zero, or sometimes even jumps up into 3 figures ! I guess it really depends where you normally drive and how good the GPS signal is.

Hi Sam, Have a look on CBS https://www.carbuilder.com/uk to give you an idea of what sort of things are available There is a very wide range out there and you can pay a fortune for some of them. You may be able to find some of the same diameter to go straight into your existing dash, or you might decide to redo it with something different - maybe even go digital? It's all down to what you fancy. As Rich says I would go for a speedo that gets it's signal from a sensor on the drive train. It might be more work to fit the sensor etc. but, once set up, it should then always give you an accurate speed reading. I like VDO clocks but that's just my preference. Steve

Hi Sam, Welcome to the club, I'm assuming that you've got a Ford type 9 gearbox - if not ignore this !!! There is a "quick shift" mod. that you can do on the gear lever which reduces it's travel and you can also shorten it by however much you want. Have a look at this http://www.s262612653.websitehome.co.uk/DVAndrews/quick.htm I've done this on a couple now and it works a treat. I usually use plastic board to make the spacer (cheap kitchen chopping boards work well) and moving the pivot point by about 10mm suits me. The more you move it the shorter the travel but the heavier the action becomes. Hope this helps Steve

Hi Jim, Happy new year ! I don't know if it helps but my 2B had a pinto with an aluminium rad. which I piped up with hoses from CBS IIRC I used a "wriggly" https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/32mm-wiggly-rubber-hose (plus a 90 bend from the engine end) for the bottom, and a "flexible" https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/vulcoflex-flexible-hoses for the top. Someone with a 3A may know of better options. Steve

Can you post up a photo of the back end of the chassis ? It might give a clue to what it is.

Hi Steve, Russell hasn't been on here for a couple of months so may not reply to you any time soon. You could try messaging Alan Richey (Forum name alanrichey) who I think is Russell's area secretary. He might be able to tell you a bit more.

Welcome to you both, I'm sure you'll find something useful within the club. Let us know what you're up to with your kits, and ask those questions - if we can help we will. Here's hoping for some good driving weather this year. Steve

Hi Matty, I'm not sure what that chassis is but it ain't a 2B - have a look at the 2B brochure page below :- Brochure.pdf somebody on here might recognise it which will make things a bit easier. Otherwise it is definitely going to be a challenge, but I'll be really interested to see how you get on with it. Good luck, Steve.

I solved the problem of water getting under the front with press studs by sticking a length of rubber d-section on top of the screen surround. It was just enough to keep the wind and rain out. I can't remember where I had it from (I think I bought it at a show) but CBS do some similar https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/8mm-x10mm-hollow-d-section-self-adhesive Steve

Nice job that Phil, I reckon it's going to be real fun to drive. Steve

Now sold.

Looking good, I'll give it 8 out of 10 so far - you've got to get it all back together and working (without scratching the paint) to get the other 2 marks !

Welcome to you all, hopefully you'll all find something useful within the club. It's not the best of weather for driving at the moment, which means it must be project time so crack on and get all those fixes sorted, ready for the great weather we're going to have next year ........................ maybe ! Ask any questions - if we can help we will, and enjoy your kits, Steve

Hi Steve, Yes, it's still here if you want it.

I used this to cover the 2B in the driveway, if I was working on something in the garage and had to leave the 2B outside for a day or two. Unfortunately the Cobra's too big to fit in it so it's got to go. It has a galvanised steel tubing frame which clips together and a green cover which attaches with velcro, so it's quite easy to put up and take down - I used to do it by myself in about 30mins, but it is easier with 2 people. A couple of ratchet straps to the 2B roll bar and it was pretty secure. It's ideal to keep the weather off a 7 sized car. When it's dismantled & folded up it goes in it's cardboard box which is approx. 1.4m x 0.5m x 0.3m and it says it weighs about 20kg. You can, of course, use it as it was meant to be and make a greenhouse with it. Collection only (from Stoke-on-Trent) please - I'm not going to try and post it! I'll be happy to show you how it goes together - there are instructions with it but they're not the best. Price : Free to RHOCaR members or £20 to non-members. If you've got any questions please ask. Thanks, Steve

Hi Craig, If you're swapping the pedal box check the clutch quadrant - the coloured plastic semi-circular thingy ! There are several sizes of them which look very similar but the groove for the clutch cable may be deeper or shallower. If it's working OK on the original then keep the same size quadrant. Officially the colour should determine what size it is but it is worth double checking. Have a look at this - https://nw.rhocar.org/buildtips/clutchpawls.htm The deeper the groove the less travel on the cable and the further you need to press the pedal to release the clutch. On some 2Bs, with the deeper groove, you can run out of pedal travel before the clutch releases. Hope this makes sense

It's probably easier to make something to raise your feet than to lower the pedal box. I have size 12 feet so I was OK with the pedal position in my 2B - I then had a carpeted board about 20mm thick that we dropped into the footwell when my daughter drove it. I guess you could call it adjustable ??????

Welcome to the club and congratulations, you now have a job for life! Stick your location up and you may find nearby members willing to help for a chocolate digestive or two. Post some pictures of things you want identifying and there'll be someone on here who knows what it is - most of the bits on it are likely to be sierra parts which you can get from most motor factors or eBay. There's loads of build info. on here, including a couple of 2B build blogs, if you have a search around. Ask whatever you want - as the saying goes, there are no stupid questions. Steve

That should keep you busy over the winter - you do realise that you've now set a target for yourself that we'll be checking on next year ! Only joking, but I will be looking forward to seeing it when the sun re-appears Steve

I used to have short straps with press stud fastenings on the rear of mine, similar to Derek's, see top right picture, p11 of the latest club mag.