Foz

Hi Chris, V8 Robin Hoods were not that common and tended to get attention wherever they went. I'd be surprised if there aren't one or two folks on here that can help you out with some info. If you can put some photos up it may jog people's memory. Steve

Sounds to me like you're 180 degrees out on he dizzy - firing at the right time but on the exhaust stroke, not on the compression stroke.

What model Robin Hood have you got ? What you fit and where will depend on which model you have.

If you contact Dave @ Dampertech (dampertech.co.uk) he has records of a lot of Robin Hood set-ups and can tell you what you need.

Have a look at this brochure for the Robin Hood 2B - it might help you to confirm if you have a 2B. If it is an early 2B then GBS (Great British Sportscars) may be able to help, as they still provide some support for the 2B. See the link at the top of this page, under [Useful Sites] > [GBS] 2B_brochure.pdf

Have a look at this info. on changing the cambelt - it tells you where everything should be when re-fitting. Cambelt.pdf

Possibly a sliding pillar 2B ? I'll have a look at what info. I've got on the 2B but I can't remember ever seeing max. axle weights.

On the pinto engine the distributor is driven off the auxiliary shaft, (which is the pulley above and to the right of the crankshaft, driven by the cam belt) and seeing as you've had the belt off I would suspect that you've got this pulley a few teeth out so your ignition timing is out, as phaeton says.

I'm really impressed with your build - not only the workmanship but also the amount of progress you're making puts me to shame 🤔. I'm really looking forward to seeing this on the road. Anyway, as far as speedo & tacho positions go it's personal preference - I think the general idea is to put the tacho nearest you if you're mainly racing and put the speedo nearest if you're mainly on the road & hoping to avoid speeding tickets 😄.

I've just booked plot 29, Friday to Sunday. Hopefully I'll make it for all 3 days this year - but don't hold your breath 🤪 See you there, Steve

Hi Simon, I think we might be getting a bit crossed up here. You don't get notifications of replies to posts on the forum - I'm afraid that you'll have to keep checking to see if anything has been added. You should get a notification if someone sends you a message through the messaging system, and you can then go to the message section and read any replies. Hope this helps, Steve

Looks like a great day out but the chances of me getting the financial go-ahead from accounts is slim to none ................. and Slim just ran out of the back door 🤣🤣

Another couple of things to check - 1) make sure the spray bar is working correctly. With the cam cover off and the spark plugs out, turn the engine over on the starter motor. You should see oil from the spray bar onto every lobe of the camshaft. 2) Check you all the valves are closing correctly - none of them are sticking or slow to close. 3) Check that the oil is correct - the pinto needs 20W50. If you use a modern ( 0W30 etc. ) oil type it is too thin and will eventually cause significant engine damage. OK, that was 3 things ................ 🤪

I agree with Daveo - I'd recommend taking the cam cover off and having a good look at the camshaft and followers.

.............. and nearly as long waiting for good weather 🤣

I'm up for the Saturday at Stoneleigh & Sunday at Kimbolton 😀.

Happy New Year to everyone .................................... just in case you hadn't noticed 🤪 Hope you all had a good Christmas - let us know if Santa brought you anything interesting. Looking forward to meeting up with folks again when the weather warms up a bit. All the best for 2026, Steve

Does anybody out there recognise the chassis ? It doesn't look like 2B, SubK or Superspec style to me ........ any ideas ?

Hi Phil, Have a look at these for some ideas https://www.carbuilder.com/collections/classic-headlamps-led-units-mounts I'm not sure what the rules are now on changing to LED headlights - I'd recommend a chat with your usual MOT garage for some advise before spending your money. Steve

Welcome to you all, it's not exactly kit driving weather but a good time for getting all those little jobs done ready for next year's glorious sunshine (maybe) 😀

Hi Jon, looks good, someone on here may well know it's history. I notice your clutch cable goes through the exhaust manifold - I would recommend modifying it with a longer clutch cable. See the info. in the NWG section ( bottom of page https://nw.rhocar.org/htm/parts2.htm ) It's well worth having a look on Car Builder Solutions website ( https://www.carbuilder.com/ ) for ideas and suggestions. There are loads of suppliers out there but CBS do a wide range of stuff for kit cars to drool over & all in the one place - where you buy the bits from is up to you! Hope this helps, Steve

Hi Aaron, welcome to the club. You had to hand your SVA certificate in to get your kit registered so if the original builder didn't take a copy of it you won't have one. From what you say about the V5 details matching your kit it sounds as if everything has been done correctly - carry on and enjoy your new car. Steve

Hi, welcome to the club. As Phaeton says, anything is possible, but I don't know of anybody ever doing this, although that doesn't mean it hasn't been done ! However I don't think you'll find a kit of parts or instructions anywhere. The original build will be unique to each S7 and you would need to examine the car before you could figure out exactly what parts (other than the obvious) would need moving and how much work would be involved. Also the S7 was a monocoque construction and you would have to pay particular attention to the strength of the body in the LH areas where you would be fitting the steering column and pedal box. A failure in the brakes or steering is not what you want.

Hi John, The answer to your question no, but we can have a guesstimate 🤪. The overall size of the car will depend on the builder to a certain extent. I can tell you that the tubular 2B chassis was 11' 4" long and 4' 2" wide, and so an average completed car would be a little over 12' long and close to 6' wide. I can't find a wheelbase dimension but it is about 8' 6" I'm sure somebody can measure theirs and give you a more accurate measurement. Hope this helps, Steve

Yes, just read it again, you can have up to 6 people on a plot so it might be a squeeze but it could be as little as £3.33 each per night. I would also suspect that, as long as you keep within the boundaries of the plot, they'll be happy and won't actually count bodies.