niduncan

My wife made a hood from grey ripstop nylon, it folds up real small, takes seconds to fit and lets loads of light in. Fully waterproof even in heavy rain. Doors are made from polycarbonate sheet.

I removed my spare wheel to fit a tow hitch. The hitch receiver is hidden behind the Robin Hood badge. I can now use a bike rack, luggage rack, trailer or trailer tent. The original holes are covered by a sheet of aluminium.

I am 6'3" and had to raise the windscreen on my Series 3 so that I could see through it rather than over it. I extended the pillars and made a panel to cover the gap between the bottom of the screen and the scuttle. As for wet weather gear, I made doors from polycarbonate sheet and a hood from ripstop nylon. No need to get wet at all!

The one I used had PFL205 stamped on it. Look here on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2eb52066ff

Here is a picture of the tube:

I had the same problem and picked up an inline non return valve from my local motor factor for £5.99 I fitted this at the rear of the car and now the car always starts first time even after standing for weeks.

This is how I attached mine:

Just a couple of spot welds hold it on:

I welded the trigger wheel on the back of the pulley, this means you do not have to disturb the VR sensor when removing the fan belt.

1. Quick release steering wheel 2. Hidden switch to immobilise ignition 3. Hidden switch to immobilise starter motor 4. Padlock on handbrake so it cannot be released

Hi, the answer is in the bottom row, it is a 3.38

After 12 years I fitted nipples as the nylon bearings had worn and also the shaft mounting holes had gone oval. I replaced the bearings and fitted plates over the worn mounting holes. The nipple just needs to go somewhere you can get access to it with a grease gun.

On my Series III I use an inductive sensor which is triggered by the diff to propshaft flange bolts.

The longer cable is: QCC1585 - Sierra 2.0i Cosworth (Exc 4x4) (1985-93)

If it is the one with the round hazard light switch then I might have one. If you still need one let me know and I will have a look this evening. I live in Thurlby near Bourne.

The picture above is of my installation, here are a couple more: The top of the dizzy was hacksawed off and the shaft cut to length.

I use a Pipercross C3001 on my Weber 32/36 DGV. See here.

I have not experienced any cracks or tears in the boot area. The boot floor did flex baddly if you use a trolley jack under the diff. I strengthened the boot floor with a large 3mm plate with a 1 1/4 inch internal diameter square tube welded to it, this is the receiver for my tow hitch.

I mounted the trigger wheel on the rear of the pully, that way you do not have to disturb the sensor to change the fan belt:

I had the same problem, the 3mm pedal box was flexing. I found that I had bought a set of pedals on ebay years ago that had an additional bracket on it: I beefed it up with some extra metal and now the 3mm pedal box does not take the strain any more:

Same happened last year, somebody ran over the same box which was hidden in the grass and got stuck on top of it. Took a few burly hoodies to lift the car off.

Does this help? This is the newest version I can find on the web.

Got mine from Click Here Went for the stainless steel ones.

I have raised the screen on my Series 3, click here to see a previous post that has a picture.

I have a Pela Oil Extractor Click here which works great if you can get the pipe all the way down the dipstick tube into the bottom of the sump. Worked OK on my Zafira diesel but will not go down on a Berlingo diesel or a Fiesta diesel, the tube gets stuck at the bottom of the dipstick tube. Before investing in one it would be worth while finding an a similar type tube and make sure it can go right down to the bottom of the sump. The Pela tube is the same as a net curtain wire and is about 5 or 6mm in diameter.