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Ant

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About Ant

  • Rank
    Wheely good builder!
  • Birthday 11/09/1974

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    2B, 2.0EFi, All stainless, Front wishbones (Now sold)
  • Full name
    Antony Allen

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.ant-a.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Location
    Burton on Trent

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  1. Ant

    Exhaust Question?

    One re-packing tale here: http://www.nottingham.ac.uk/~eazaja/Kit_Ca..._stuffing.shtml My pipe was cracked in the middle, and used to squeak. I prized it apart slightly which cured it back then. Dunno what it's like now though coz I sold the car. Ant
  2. There's a plastic park switch fitted to the lucas motors and they are famous for clogging up and corroding. If you open it up you'll see the problem, but poutting it backj together again isn't too easy. Best solution is to replace the park switch. There's one for £7.50 on this page: http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/SVCWIPERS.HTM Ant
  3. Ant

    Unsure About Buyer

    Ok - that's a bit clearer. I can see how the whole cheque thing works. What about bank transfers? Do they have to "clear" like a cheque does? The reason I ask is that some bloke from Israel has just phoned me at work (having tracked down my number on my work's web pages, via my e-mail address) wanting to buy my corvette. He was very polite, very organised, and full of different offers for how he could send the money to me in pretty much any format I asked for. Eventually I told him I simply wasn't prepared to sell the car to someone who I see as a risk, and whether he liked it or not I thought he was a risk. At that point he suddenly put the phone down. Yesterday he was bidding on the car on ebay. He is zero rated, joined eBay the day I put it up for sale, and claims to be coming to the UK on the same day as the auction ends. I asked for his address and phone number, and he gave me an address in London, and a phone number in Israel. Later yesterday I cancelled his bids, and that's when he decided to phone me. I wonder why he didn't use my mobile number which is on the advert? Anyhow, I'm not taking any risks. I'm just intreagued how exactly he's intending to scam me. If he's trying to scam me, that is. Anyhow, not a risk worth taking. Ant
  4. Ant

    Unsure About Buyer

    Bit late to this topic, but can someone explain what exactly happens with this kind of scam? They transfer money to the seller which is an overpayment, right? How exactly does that help the would-be buyer??? Ant
  5. Ant

    Free To A Good Home

    la la la la la It's not for sale yet anyhow, just spreading the word that it might be soonish ... once the brake calliper which is in the middle of the pond has arrived Ant
  6. Ant

    Free To A Good Home

    Fun though it is, I'm fed up of ordering parts from across the pond and waiting 3 weeks for them to arrive. I could get stuff in the UK but then I know I'm paying about 30% over the odds. 12mpg isn't too much fun either. £15 to get to work and back in it - it just means it doesn't get driven. I used to drive the hood anywhere and everywhere! I am likely to be moving house in the next few months too, so I'll think again about what toy to have once that's all sorted. Ant
  7. Ant

    Free To A Good Home

    Oh flipping heck, it looks like a right can of worms now! I did get an e-mail from Swan at 10:45 this morning, but I got one from Mat at 9:40. My e-mail is on my web page, and that link worked throughout, I think. It's only a set of badges so I hope there won't be any court cases!!!!
  8. Ant

    Free To A Good Home

    Our beloved webmaster, mat-d-rat, replied at 9:40am, so I guess he got there first. Sorry Swan. Mat, they're in the post. Ant PS - Anyone wanna buy a Corvette????
  9. Free to a good home, first person to e-mail me gets them. 5 Robin Hood Sports Car badges, as new, never fitted. Ant
  10. Nargh - They're not up side down at all. They're not conventional "lift off" hinges. They're stainless butt hinges from RS components, with the pins knocked out and longer ones fitted made from stainless rod. In Stewart's photo the pins are still in. Ant
  11. That was me. The modified end stop did break when I was in Le Mans, but only in that I'd weakened it by turning it down in a lathe. A better solution is to remove the end stop completely and chuck it, and use a jubilee clip on the outer sheath to act as a replacement end stop instead. Or turn up a shiney new brass end fitting like I did eventually. Ant
  12. Ant

    Uni-cycle Game

    1 min 20.2 seconds. But the guy in the other corner of this office has got 2 mins 52 so I've given up.
  13. "Need" is perhaps too strong a word - which is why I didn't do them. There's some in that gasket kit pack which I gave you. On cold start a bit of smoke comes out of the exhaust. If the seals were in the cylinder head instead of in the plastic bag then the smoke should go. It's not a problem as it is though, let alone a need. Another 20k and it'll be more of a "need" :-) That's probably the one I'm thinking of. All high lift cams affect the idling. If you want a smooth engine just like a normal car then don't fit any mods. You know the lambda reading you get at an MOT emissions test? That's measuring your air to fuel ratio (or air to fuel balance, if you prefer). If the AFR is 14.5 (ish) then lambda is 1, and the fuel and air are in the correct proportions. If you run richer than that (AFR less than 14.5, or lambda less than 1) then you get a bit extra power, but a lot of wasted fuel. Run leaner (AFR higher than 14.5 or lambda > 1) and you get poor combustion and lots of NOx. A "Stiochiometric ratio" is the perfect balance - and for petrol it's about 14.5 kg of air to one kg of fuel. 14.5 may be the Diesel value though - I can't remember the numbers. More info than that and you need an A level chemistry text book :-) Ant
  14. I did think about this at one point, so it's perhaps worth passing on my conclusions. The fundamental thing is that a petrol engine runs at a stiochiometric AFR, and the ECU (or carbs or whatever) simply maintain that AFR. Changing the ECU maps will only change the fuel quantity, not the air - that's mechanical and limited by the air filter, the throttle, and head / cam / valves. Do the air first, and the ECU will go to its maximum fuelling at an earlier point in the map simply to balance the AFR - it'll do that as it is, without modification. That's how come you can put a mild performance cam in (FR32 I think) without changing the ECU. If that's not enough then consider a harder cam and a reprogrammable ECU, but reprogrammable ECU's aren't cheap. Swapping the cam for an FR32 (?) isn't too expensive, nor is it difficult to fit. Your valve stem seals need replacing anyhow (I never got around to it), so why not fit one at the same time? Anything which plays with the fuel maps without modifying the air won't make much difference. Take the spare off the back, drive with an empty tank, and throw the tool kit out and you'll get the same effect. At the end of the day you're not going to get much more out of a pinto without bigger mods - high lift cams, carbs, and possibly a supercharger or turbo. But if you're considering that lot, then I'd fit a zetec. It puts you back onto a manufacturers setup, with extra horses already included. Ant
  15. Surely the answer here is that any car is worth what people are prepared to pay, and that doesn't usually bear much comparison to what it cost. Different people value different things. I think I sold mine on overall appearance, proven as a daily driver, documented build, etc etc (Stewart - fell free to chip in here). Some people value engine mods and extra performance. Others see them as asking for trouble later on if (when) something goes wrong. Equally some people value a "standard spec" as they feel more confident with what they're buying. Some buyers will value a current model higher than a discontinued model, others will value popularity and a solid base of experienced owners. Some want something to finish off so they get to put their own finishing touches to it and get some of the buzz of having built it, others want a perfected car to turn the key and drive. It really does depend on the buyer. At the end of the day it's worth whatever someone is prepared to pay. My advice is to clean it, finish off any niggles which you can, and then advertise it. Set the price at what you're prepared to sell it for. If it doesn't sell you might have to reconsider - either lowering the price, or advertising it in a different way. Definitely the weather helps - everyone wants a hood when the sun is shining. Some buyers can remember what the summer is like, but lots can't. Ant
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