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About neal@cmtelecom.info

  • Birthday 04/08/1979

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    1995 S7
  • Full name

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Dunmow Essex

neal@cmtelecom.info's Achievements


Builder (2/5)



  1. why is nothing easy

    1. zoomzoom


      i have no answer for you but i feel your pain!!

  2. i have tried the spacer idea as was shown this from another member have also tried a cortina adjustable clutch as this was mentioned also both have still managed to get slack if the pedel releases on the ratchet you can take the slack out in the inner cable by extending the outer but if the ratchet then goes loose it will not pull tight on the inner again
  3. perhaps should of mentioned that you can get away with 14s
  4. I have the exact same issue with the stupid clutch pedal design the clutch will stop working if you accidentally touch the back of the pedal or come of the clutch to hard it will loose tension on the cable and then you have no clutch to say the least im looking into a solution for this as the ratchet idea is just not up to standard. im not sure if anyone has done a mod on the pedal but im looking into ideas im thinking of taking the ratchet away and just having the cable attach direct to the top of the pedal if anyone has ideas let me know or i will post when ive got something that works
  5. yes quite simply bolt the brakes to the existing upright i have these brakes on my car the rear conversion is quite simple also just need a bracket to hold the caliper in place easy to make with 5-10mm mild steel or i believe you can buy them i fabricated my own i have used escort cosworth calipers and scorpio rear disks this gives me vented all round well overbraked i know but it was what was availble at the time.
  6. neal@cmtelecom.info

    Mk2 S7

    transit van 18mm im sure thats what i used
  7. Crap in the tank was the problem i don't know why but there was some almost like tile grout in the bottom of the tank and this had got itself up inside the pickup pipe from the tank to the pump so the fuel pressure was being affected and the carbs were empting under load but fuel was getting through at low pressure which was enough to enable tick over just need to put it all back together now
  8. Quite simple really last name is Manley have been called Manners for most of my life by friends. and this is my Xbox gamer tag.
  9. Been there done it! Got the Scars to prove it! True Hoody
  10. still got the problem have tried red X in tank and S**t loads of carb cleaner. just so you are aware im running twin 40's i was just wondering if i could be experiencing carb Icing as one of the carbs is ice cold to the touch but the inlet manifold is warm this is becoming annoying now as you can only drive for about 5-10mins before it happens then have to sit at side of road waiting with engine off for another 5 mins until you can drive again and the symptoms persist somebody must have an idea 2.0 litre pinto with weber twin 40's nothing out of the norm
  11. Facet Silver/Red Pump not 100%. The tank is vented at the inlet pipe from fuel filler to the tank. the fuel lines are all braided hose and copper line from pump hosed in heat shield wrap to pressure regulator.
  12. Help! Im having a bit of trouble with my engine. I know that it needs tuning and the timing is not exact but the problem I have got is that the car runs well when cold and tick over at idle is fine. when the car has been out on a bit of a run for about 15 mins the car will have no acceleration it will slowly die it will not cut out and continues to idle but when you try to accelerate it just spluts and dies its like it has got no fuel. i have noticed that if i leave it to cool for a bit, say 10 mins it will then let me drive again for 5 mins then the same will happen. the engine is very hot to the touch and water temp reads about 95C any one got any ideas as im out many thanks Neal
  13. Thanks will try that as have already tried a direct earth to the sender and made no difference
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