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About dctough

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  • Birthday 02/14/1982

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  • Car type
    Zero Zetec Yellow/Stainless
  • Full name
    David Tough

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  1. Does anybody know someone who can punch louvres into a stainless steel bonnet around the Heathrow area? Things are getting a bit hot under the hood. Dave
  2. The fan in powered via a relay in the fuse box. You will need to ground pin 4 on the 'engine link' connector to switch the relay and turn the fan on. Dave
  3. dctough

    Pre Iva Photos

    The car will be presented without the windscreen. I've just been getting it ready for when its passed.
  4. dctough

    Pre Iva Photos

    All, I appreciate it if you could take a look at my build photo's (link below) and feedback any comments on what might be a issue for IVA. http://s1112.photobucket.com/albums/k484/dctough/Kit%20Car%20Build/ Regards, Dave
  5. Yes it all works. GBS hadn't released any of their wiring info when i put it all together, so those were the pins I chose for each function. For the functions you point out there are a handful of wires that go from the engine link connector to the gauges connector. It doesn't really matter ones you choose as long as you are consistent at both ends. Dave
  6. Here is the wiring diagram and pin outs for the engine loom I made.Hope this helps.Dave Visio-Engine Loom.pdf Engine loom Pin outs.pdf
  7. Yep i have the main GBS vehicle loom. Any Mk1 petrol focus should be ok, 1.8 or 2 litre ideally. Its good because it gives you most of the connectors you need for elsewhere on the engine (crank position, coil pack etc). You'll still need to source the deutsch connector to mate onto the GBS loom, and the connector for the emerald ECU normally comes with it (+ water temp and air temp sensor) Thinking back, I chopped the loom ont he focus where it enters into the passenger comparment under the off side wheel arch and this left a few of the wires a bit to short for what i needed so had to extend them. I ended up stipping the whole loom down and building it all back up again, adding extra wires for the fuel pump, altenator, oil pressure sender etc.. and getting lengths correct - doable but not straight forward. I'll did out my notes, type them up and send through. Dave
  8. Hey Chris, Where abouts in Kingston are you? I'm in Staines nearing the end of my build so if you need any help or pointers feel free to give me a shout. Pictures on my photobucket account may be useful (link below). Dave
  9. I have the same set up as you. I ripped out the engine bay loom from a ford focus at my local scappy and used this as the basis of my engine loom. It was the only way i could find the connector to mate with the injector loom on the engine. Much cheaper and more satisfying building my own than buying one. Depends on you appetite for wiring. I have a wiring diagram and pin-outs in my notes at home if these are of any use.
  10. I've used the "exhaust mounting kit" from GBS and seems to work ok after a bit of 'fitting'. The bracket fits to the chassis rail underneath the car. Before cutting metal i would dry fit the exhaust system a make sure everthung is close to where it should be. Initially my silencer wouldn't fit as it wastrying to go through my side panel. I had to change the exhaust manifold as the angle of the pipe coming out of teh 4-1 wasn't quite right. Apparently there is some variablilty in the exhaust manifolds. I fitted the bracket to get the front/rear position of the bobbin where i wanted it. I then had to get the blow torch out an heat up the exhaust so i could adjust the exhaust to tweak the up/down left/right position of the exhaust mounting hole so it would line up with the bobbin. I found heating the point where the exhaust goes from 4 to 1 works best as the stainless is thinnest at this point, it is a good distance from the rear mounting point which minimises the amount of distortion of the 4-1 point required to get the mounting hole and the bobbin to line up. Hope this helps. Dave
  11. I'm using an Innovate LC-1. £130 from ebay arrived next day. Haven't had any problems, easy to set-up.
  12. dctough

    Headlight Alignment

    I'm trying to figure out how to align my headlights for the IVA but the diagram in the IVA manual is unclear. I understand the dipped beam breakpoint has to be within certain tolerances, but I don't understand how the tolerances are defined. So my question is; are the tolerance band percentages related to: a- the horizontal distance between the headlamp and the vertical plane the light is being shone against (ie a wall) or b- the vertical distance of the headlamp centre-line above the ground I am also assuming the the 0% reference lines are associated with the centre line and centre height for each individual headlight and that each headlight has to be set-up seprately so that the beams from each headlight are effectively parallel. Otherwise you'd get a weird 'cross-eyed' headlight look going on. Confirmation either way would be great. Dave
  13. It does sound like you are 'dead-ending' the system during warm-up. During warm up the water being pumped has no-where has to go because the thermostat is closed and both the heater and bypass ports are blocked. So as there can be no flow through the system; there is is no guarantee hot water will reach the thermostat to make it open. A quick fix if you don't want to change your set-up would be to drill a small hole in the thermostat to allow a trickle of water to flow around the system during warm-up. Dave
  14. If you can afford it, go with a wide band. It's been invaluable with helping me getting my engine up and running. I went with Innovate LC-1.
  15. dctough

    Its Alive!

    Fired up the engine for the first time today and the kit leaves the garage under its own steam!!!! http://s1112.photobucket.com/albums/k484/dctough/Kit%20Car%20Build/?action=view&current=DSCF2284.mp4 Dave
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