Jump to content


Community user
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral


About Botbuilder

  • Rank
    Getting there Builder
  • Birthday 12/29/1949

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    Robin Hood 2B
  • Full name
    Alan Gribble

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Motorcycles,skiing,scuba diving,engineering
  1. Everything now sold and will be picked up at the weekend. Thanks Guys!
  2. Thanks Adrian, but the machines have served me well for many years and owe me nothing. I would rather they went to people like me who are enthusiastic about making stuff,and not just out to make a quick buck
  3. Hi Guys I've decided to clean out my workshop and to get rid of my old but very usefull machines. The machinery consists of:- Le Blonde centre lathe http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab254/Botbuilder/Le_Blonde.jpg Smart & Brown centre lathe http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab254/Botbuilder/SmartBrown.jpg Bridgeport Universal Mill http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab254/Botbuilder/Bridgeport.jpg An old Donkey Saw http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab254/Botbuilder/Donkey_Saw.jpg As stated the machinery is old but still works well, whereas I wouldn't think them fit for long production runs they are great for a hobbyist (and all single phase) I would think all the machines are pre 1945 The Le Blonde is has about a 6" throw about 24" between centers, has a three jaw chuck, a face plate with a four jaw chuck attached and various bits and bobs to go with it. (£250) The Smart & Brown is about 5" swing and about 24" bewtween centers, it has three & four jaw chucks, a face plate, collet chuck (not a complete set of collets), and a taper turning attachment it has a Mitstubishi inverter to give control of speed and Direction (£400) Bridgeport Mill with some R8 collets, vice, milling cutters etc. (£150) Donkey Saw (£50) The bad news is you will have to move it, a couple or three burly blokes and a good trailer should do it. The machines have served me well, but it looks like the grim reaper has other ideas for my retirement so may as well get rid of them now before the wife has to do it. I'm open to offers but I thought I'd put them on the forum before a resort to ebay.
  4. Botbuilder


    I just got off the phone from Adrian Flux. The cheeky sons of bxtches just took £208.60 from my bank account and renewed the insurance on my 2B without even asking me. I knew my insurance was about to run out and had got a much better quote from Frank Pickles £127.13 fully comp. The guy I spoke to at Adrian Flux was quite polite and imediately matched the quote from Frank Pickles, but coud see nothing wrong with Flux's policy of just dipping into a customers bank account and taking what they wanted. Needless to say I demanded a full refund and will never do business with them again.
  5. I use a Renault Clio Mk2 1.2i aluminium rad for a 03/98-12/98 ,Manual gearbox Clio. OE Part Number : 7700430647 Core size is : 350x375x30 mm fan fitted to draw air through radiator. Using the original Clio fan switch mounted in the radiator. Never overheats fan cuts in at 90 degrees C and out at 82. Fan only runs for short bursts in traffic jams There is a picture of how it fits, in my Garage space. The only problem I found is that it is very hard to bleed the air out of the system. However this setup works well for me and you can pick one on fleabay pretty cheap
  6. Botbuilder

    Where's Alan?

    I've never met Alan but some of the stuff he posted made great sense. We can all be OTT occasionally and Teddy's do come out of the pram, but I wouldn't want to miss a single comment be it for or against anything I said, thought or wrote. Forums are supposed to be a place of debate, disussion and review. The more people we have the better the place will be. If he doesn't come back the Forum will be a worse place. Nuf said.
  7. Hey thanks Andy, since you put that stutter right my exhaust has stopped popping and banging.
  8. Catch tank cap now done. I took the liberty of adding an o-ring it might be enough to hold it it in place for you. If not glue it in as you originally planned. In the post tomorrow.
  9. Won't cost you anything, I just need where to post it to.
  10. I can make you one tomorrow night and have it in the post to you for Thursday. I take it the small diameter will be pushing into something so the tolerance will have to be +0/-.25mm. The others can be +.25/-.25mm. PM me if this is OK and an address to send it to. Alan
  11. Here we go firing squad at the ready! Daz, the temperaure at the end of the exhaust system where the the big hole is, is much lower and not hot enough to ignite any unburnt fuel. If your motor revs like a F1 or a MotoGP bike or if it's seriously overfueling on the overun then you can expect massive flames out of the end of the exhaust, just like on telly. A few tuning articles I have read actually encourage popping and banging an the overun. Can I please have a blindfold before I'm shot?
  12. Here's another bit of theory for you from the BG Tuning Manual: Exhaust pipe length and size. As the exhaust valve opens, a positive or pressure wave front is created which travels down the exhaust pipe at the speed of sound. As this pressure wave reaches the end of the pipe, it expands and a negative or suction pulse travels back up the pipe towards the engine. As the negative wave front in turn reaches the cylinder, it reverses again and moves back towards the end of the pipe. This fluctuating pressure pulse effect can be used to great advantage in tuning the engine. If the system is designed in such a way that the negative or suction pulses return to the cylinder at overlap T.D.C., then they will assist in clearing the combustion chamber of exhaust gases. In turn, this will cause a depression at the inlet valve, which will help draw in the inlet charge. Coupling the pipes of multi-cylinder engines will also mean that the pulse effects from one cylinder can be used to assist the breathing of another. The following formula can be used to calculate the ideal length for a given application: L = 129540 x E.T./R.P.M. x 6 Where: L = Primary pipe length in mms measured from the exhaust valve head. E.T. = Exhaust valve duration in degrees from point of valve opening before B.D.C plus the full 180 degree stroke up to T.D.C. R.P.M. = The estimated revs, at which max. power will be achieved minus five hundred. Example: Exhaust timing = 80 B.B.D.C. to 50 A.T.D.C. Estimated maximum power R.P.M. = 7200 E.T. = 80 + 180 = 260 R.P.M. will be 7200 - 500 = 6700 Therefore : Primary pipe length = 129540 x 260/6700 x 6 = 837 mms. or 32 ins. If it were not for these negative pressure waves two stokes would barely work and there would certainly be no power band. The Yamaha FZR and EXUP wouldn't be much good either. As some people seem to be getting a bit tetchy on this subject, I never said sucking air into the exhaust was the only reason for popping and banging on the overun, just one of them, and easy to fix. Having wrote all that I'm now going to put some of Mr Benoullis olive oil on my pasta and carefully analyse the glug effect as it comes out the bottle. I suppose now I'll have started a heated discussion on the effects viscosity and the temperature of pasta.
  13. System restore should be your first port of call.
  • Create New...