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davidimurray

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davidimurray last won the day on June 22 2014

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About davidimurray

  • Rank
    Wheely good builder!

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  • Car type
    Haynes Roadster
  • Full name
    Dave Murray
  1. There was a couple of articles in PPC a while back about using standard Zetec ECU
  2. Take lots of photos of all the hidden bits, you may also need the engine age letter, and if you have a digital speedo you need to show that it goes upto the speed your tyres are rated for. I also found a pack of assorted mints went down well
  3. Don't forget - it is not just about the main jet. The main jet only sets fuelling at wide open throttle - the needle is just as, if not more important. It is worth bearing in mind the different circuits :- idle Pilot Needle Main Pilot gives fuel all the time and the idle screw basically adds/removes fuel as a trim. With the throttle shut, the diaphragm sits at the bottom with the needle down into the nozzle in the carb body. Fuel sits in the carb upto the float level and when there is sufficient vacuum is sucked through the main jet, and through the gap between the needle and the hole. When you accelerate, the diaphragm rises lifts the needle (which tapers) and the hole gets bigger so more fuel comes out. When the diapragm is fully at the top the hole the needle creates is larger than the main jet, so the main jet size now becomes the limiting factor.
  4. 20 PSI should be ok regardless of wheel size. The smaller you can go on wheelsize the better. Unfortunately the Haynes design won't let you go below 15" - even the sierra 14" steels won't fit over the rear uprights.
  5. As a quick thought what tyre pressures are you running? Only need to be about 20psi.
  6. Well done benny- sounds like your making good progress. Generally damper settings will depend on the car, I started with both front and back the same with no issues.
  7. If the thread will not even go in the tube then they are definitely undersized! Normally the threaded part is slightly undersized because of the thread clearance and shank is pretty much spot on.
  8. Will any of the bolt go in, I,e, the threaded part or is it just the shank that won't go in? The chassis mount holes should be m12 clearance going to m10 would be loose in them. In reality the tube is clamped by the bolt so it shouldn't really move. Have you checked there are no burrs in the end of the tubes?
  9. Bolts should be m12 min 8.8 grade.
  10. Some interesting figures there. I am no suspension expert, but assuming the rear toe is out then there seems to be a lot of it. Assuming you are using standard roadster bits then you may want to look at getting some camber shims made to go behind the hubs. You can do quite a good suspension setup at home with some axle stands and string. With regard to your 'stiff' suspension - do you know what springs you are running? With rgeard to the damping, the softest setting doesn't mean a soft ride - I've learnt that with mine! Started at the mid position on my dampers (6 clicks) - backed off to 3 clicks and the ride got much 'harsher' currently back at 6 and may try adding a bit more damping yet.
  11. That is giving you about 2 l/min so should be plenty. As an idea when I asked around before, 1l/min should be good for around 160-180bhp. Did you have ago at the jet cleaning?
  12. Spud on the Haynes forums - he ran Saturn Sports Cars, gave me this advice for starting off :- "Front: Toe in 2deg, camber 3deg (will vary on driving style), castor so that it just starts to self centre Rear: Toe in - none, camber 1/2 deg Corner weighting the car is important with the driver in the car, adjust the springs to get the car even all round then you can balance the car between the front and rear. Adjust the ride height, 100mm front / 125mm rear, to as low as you dare for speed bumps and turn up the bump / rebound to as stiff as our crappy roads will allow. If you go on a track day you can drop the car right down and damper setting as stiff as they go and it will make quite a difference." And i'm running 350lb and 250lb springs although I can't remember which way around they are! Tyres on mine are T1Rs 195/50/15s. How is the shock damping adjusted? Stupid question but have you got any play in any of the steering UJs or the rack connection. This can make the car feel 'loose'
  13. b3nny - I take it you are running a Haynes Roadster? What are your handling worries? Mine handles beautifully - fantastic grip around corners the rear tyres start to squeal before the back end starts to break loose. Nice and stable on motorways. The only issue I have yet to dial out is a bit of bump steer that can be a un-nerving on a striaght bumpt road. What are your geo settings? What springs are you running? What are your ride heights?
  14. The bike fuel pumps don't have a great lift/suction capability and hence the closer to the tank they are the better. If you want to make a simple test fro flow, pull the hose off the carbs and divert the fuel into a bucket. Measure the time/quantity collected to get a flowrate. As a feel my ZX6R/ZX9R pump gives about 1 litre per minute. That is after the pump and two filters. When I had a blocked/imploding filter, I was only getting 0.35litres per minute and even then the fuel starvation was only evident when on the road and full throttle for mor than 5-10 seconds.
  15. If you clean them, don't just spray carb cleaner through them. Spray carb cleaner into a glass (don't use plastic or you will end up with a sticky mess) to give you enought to cover all the jets then leave the jets in there soaking. Bike Fuel pump to carbs is fine. Have you got any fuel filters inline? I run two, bike one by the pump and a small one just before the carb. If using one inthe enigne bay make sure it is a metal one. I had a plastic one start to implode and then blocked the flow causing a misfire after a few seconds under full load.
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